Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

I must be missing something here!!!


Isn't that what you have to do to all of them?

There is no difference changing the rim on a rim sprocket on an outboard clutch and changing a spur sprocket on an outboard clutch.......................................except $15.00- $18.00 that I've found.
Is there something new that I've not seen???


Mike

Because Mike, you have never seen the "Rim Stretcher". Available to all on e-bay

 

[rms61moparman]

Because Mike, you have never seen the "Rim Stretcher". Available to all on e-bay

Can you hook me up with a link to that at your convenience???


Mike

 

[fossil]

Can you hook me up with a link to that at your convenience???


Mike

Whoops! Sorry Mike. Somehow I was looking in the medical appliance section. Darn computers.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks Tim.Just hope for a good top end.We'll see in a week or two.

Nice job Kostas!

I dont know how much £15.00 is but it dont sound like much. Yep, if it has a good top end and spark, you can make the rest of it go!

 

[rms61moparman]

Whoops! Sorry Mike. Somehow I was looking in the medical appliance section. Darn computers.

I don't need that rim stretched any.
The government takes care of that every payday.
Thanks anyway.



Mike

 

[barneyrb]

I don't need that rim stretched any.
The government takes care of that every payday.
Thanks anyway.



Mike

AMEN!!!! That might make it into my sig line

 

[fossil]

Nice job Kostas!

I dont know how much £15.00 is but it dont sound like much. Yep, if it has a good top end and spark, you can make the rest of it go!

You're right about that Mark, about $30

 

[redunshee]

Who recalls what the thread size is for the fitting that reduces the fuel line between the carb and the fuel tank. I believe its 5/16x18 but before I tap the tank I want to be sure. Tried to start my 4200 but it won't start w/o pouring fuel in the carb. Addditionally I'm getting a small leak around the tank openning so I want to replace the line and use a smaller line in the tank and a larger one to the carb. I believe its the filter and not the carb so I'll start there.
Bob

Come on, some knows the size.

 

[crowellmachine]

Come on, some knows the size.

If it is one of the fittings that I made, it is 5/16-24.

KJC

 

[redunshee]

If it is one of the fittings that I made, it is 5/16-24.

KJC

It may be. Got it from a member here.
Thanks

 

[3000 FPS]

What happened EZRYDER did you get your question answered.

 

[Modifiedmark]

It may be. Got it from a member here.
Thanks

It is....

Make darn sure you run the tap in straight when you do it.

 

[EZRYDER]

Pretty much. The stuff about availability of the rim setup for the S25 is still fuzzy

What happened EZRYDER did you get your question answered.

Thanks, all. One more on the subject. If I get a rim setup, is the chain a different lenghth? I see that I may be able to change the pitch, depending on availability (again, fuzzy).
Larry

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks, all. One more on the subject. If I get a rim setup, is the chain a different lenghth? I see that I may be able to change the pitch, depending on availability (again, fuzzy).
Larry

If you stay with the same pitch and the same number of teeth on the sprocket then chain length will stay the same.

 

[EZRYDER]

Here's another perhaps ****** question but about my 295.

My only non-runner of my 9 gas saws (8 over 30 yrs old) is my 295 superclean which is about 5 or 6 yrs old. Allegedly left with gas in it for 4 yrs after being used one season, (the thing looks practically new inside and out) I emptied it and had it checked out by a local member friend. Everything looked great (compression, spark, fuel line, P&C and the carb was immaculate). He told me to let it dry out for a couple of weeks which I did. When I went to start it, the flywheel nut came loose. I tightened it and it happened again. In manually turning the flywheel, the magneto shoes are chafing against the flywheel a point (or maybe two). Is the flywheel not round, or is the flywheel cocked? I always thought the flywheel was round. So I know there should be gap between the brushes and the wheel but before I gap it I am not sure there isn't something up with the wheel???
Larry

 

[3000 FPS]

My only non-runner of my 9 gas saws (8 over 30 yrs old) is my 295 superclean which is about 5 or 6 yrs old. Allegedly left with gas in it for 4 yrs after being used one season, (the thing looks practically new inside and out) I emptied it and had it checked out by a local member friend. Everything looked great (compression, spark, fuel line, P&C and the carb was immaculate). He told me to let it dry out for a couple of weeks which I did. When I went to start it, the flywheel nut came loose. I tightened it and it happened again. In manually turning the flywheel, the magneto shoes are chafing against the flywheel a point (or maybe two). Is the flywheel not round, or is the flywheel cocked? I always thought the flywheel was round. So I know there should be gap between the brushes and the wheel but before I gap it I am not sure there isn't something up with the wheel???
Larry

When you tighten down the flywheel make sure there is a washer under the nut. Then use a buisness card to set the gap for the coil or magneto what ever you want to call it. When I tighten the flywheels on my saws I use a 3/8 air impact and just give it a quick blip to get it tight. I have a couple of the 295's and do not have this problem, but I do like those saws.

 

[EZRYDER]

Thanks, but one more.

When you tighten down the flywheel make sure there is a washer under the nut. Then use a buisness card to set the gap for the coil or magneto what ever you want to call it. When I tighten the flywheels on my saws I use a 3/8 air impact and just give it a quick blip to get it tight. I have a couple of the 295's and do not have this problem, but I do like those saws.

Yes, there is a washer. So is the flywheel not round ? The brushes do not touch the wheel all around.
Larry

 

[jerrycmorrow]

i always torque the flywheel nut down (diffrent strokes/diffrent folks). after tightening the flywheel nut loosen the screws holding the coil/magneto/whatever down. slip a business card between the coil and the magnet part of the flywheel. let the magnet pull the coil to the flywheel, tighten the coil screws, remove business card. rotate the coil by hand. if you still have intermittent contact between the coil and the flywheel you either have a bent crankshaft or the machined hole on the flywheel (where it fits on the crank) could be wallowed out. either way, don't run the saw until you figure it out.

 

[EZRYDER]

Thanks, one more

i always torque the flywheel nut down (diffrent strokes/diffrent folks). after tightening the flywheel nut loosen the screws holding the coil/magneto/whatever down. slip a business card between the coil and the magnet part of the flywheel. let the magnet pull the coil to the flywheel, tighten the coil screws, remove business card. rotate the coil by hand. if you still have intermittent contact between the coil and the flywheel you either have a bent crankshaft or the machined hole on the flywheel (where it fits on the crank) could be wallowed out. either way, don't run the saw until you figure it out.

How much torque? 3000 said "Impact wrench"
Larry

 

[jerrycmorrow]

How much torque? 3000 said "Impact wrench"
Larry

3000 also said just a "slight blip". like i said, "ds/df". i prefer torque wrenching. 3000 prefers impact wrenching. whatever floats yer boat.

as to how much torque -
i can't really say without knowing the nut/crank size. what i can tell you is:
2300CVA (38cc) - 13 - 15 ft-lbs
3400 (56cc) - 15 - 20 ft-lbs
given that your saw is somewhere in between these two i'd say you would be safe at 15 ft-lbs

need to try and get a shop manual on the "beg" thread so you'll know for sure