Nik's Poulan Thread

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How much torque? 3000 said "Impact wrench"
Larry

Larry this is not rocket science. Do you have any mechanical back ground because you ask some questions that would make me believe other wise.

Just make sure the nut is tight on the fly wheel and is pushed down on the tapered shaft good.
This is just common mechanical sense.
 
When you tighten down the flywheel make sure there is a washer under the nut. Then use a buisness card to set the gap for the coil or magneto what ever you want to call it. When I tighten the flywheels on my saws I use a 3/8 air impact and just give it a quick blip to get it tight. I have a couple of the 295's and do not have this problem, but I do like those saws.

Yup, this is how to do it ... just be sure you use a conventional paper business card (some of the newer 'plastic' ones can be thinner) and set the gap when the magnets are aligned with the coil. Good luck!
 
Thanks, it's a 46cc. So I guess 15 should be OK?

3000 also said just a "slight blip". like i said, "ds/df". i prefer torque wrenching. 3000 prefers impact wrenching. whatever floats yer boat.

as to how much torque -
i can't really say without knowing the nut/crank size. what i can tell you is:
2300CVA (38cc) - 13 - 15 ft-lbs
3400 (56cc) - 15 - 20 ft-lbs
given that your saw is somewhere in between these two i'd say you would be safe at 15 ft-lbs

need to try and get a shop manual on the "beg" thread so you'll know for sure

Off subject: I see in your profile that you have craftsman. I have 4 Roper built early to mid 70's 3.7's (three are the powersharps). I would like to treat them all to new sprockets (three have rims and one spur). Do you have any like that? I would like to know what wrench you might have used to get the clutch off.
Larry
 
Otherwise

Larry this is not rocket science. Do you have any mechanical back ground because you ask some questions that would make me believe other wise.

Just make sure the nut is tight on the fly wheel and is pushed down on the tapered shaft good.
This is just common mechanical sense.

I am a semi-retired accountant but fairly handy. No real mechanical experience except fixing all the stuff around the house and yard. No in-depth engine stuff. Half polish so my plumbing talents are my best.
Nobody answere the question as to whether or not the flywheel is perfectly round. It is really a simple yes or no.
Larry
 
My only non-runner of my 9 gas saws (8 over 30 yrs old) is my 295 superclean which is about 5 or 6 yrs old. Allegedly left with gas in it for 4 yrs after being used one season, (the thing looks practically new inside and out) I emptied it and had it checked out by a local member friend. Everything looked great (compression, spark, fuel line, P&C and the carb was immaculate). He told me to let it dry out for a couple of weeks which I did. When I went to start it, the flywheel nut came loose. I tightened it and it happened again. In manually turning the flywheel, the magneto shoes are chafing against the flywheel a point (or maybe two). Is the flywheel not round, or is the flywheel cocked? I always thought the flywheel was round. So I know there should be gap between the brushes and the wheel but before I gap it I am not sure there isn't something up with the wheel???
Larry

Larry, makes sure that the flywheel key is not broken. The flywheel key fits in a notch in the crankshaft. Then you can torque down the flywheel nut. I believe that you are calling the ignition module laminates the brushes.
 
Yes, there is a washer. So is the flywheel not round ? The brushes do not touch the wheel all around.
Larry

Larry,

Sometimes the magnets in the flywheel sit a little bit higher than the flywheel surface. If the coil laminates are hitting at the magnets you likley don't have a mechanical issue but you need to set the gap with the paper business card as mentioned.
If they are hitting elsewhere or you can feel up / down play in the flywheel when it's sitting in operating position you may have an issue.
 
I am a semi-retired accountant but fairly handy. No real mechanical experience except fixing all the stuff around the house and yard. No in-depth engine stuff. Half polish so my plumbing talents are my best.
Nobody answere the question as to whether or not the flywheel is perfectly round. It is really a simple yes or no.
Larry

No, some flywheel castings are less perfect than others.
 
i am a semi-retired accountant but fairly handy. No real mechanical experience except fixing all the stuff around the house and yard. No in-depth engine stuff. Half polish so my plumbing talents are my best.
Nobody answere the question as to whether or not the flywheel is perfectly round. It is really a simple yes or no.
Larry

no
 
I...Nobody answere the question as to whether or not the flywheel is perfectly round. It is really a simple yes or no.
Larry

no. nothing, anywhere is perfectly round. it is all relative; not necessarily a simple question/answer. like was just said though, the magnets should stick up a little bit so you have to adjust between the magnets and the coil to maintain clearance and to make sure the engineered gap is correct.
regarding my roper/craftsman - i haven't pulled the clutch yet so haven't investigated what is involved. i recall some rebuild threads on AS though.
 
Nice job Kostas!

I dont know how much £15.00 is but it dont sound like much. Yep, if it has a good top end and spark, you can make the rest of it go!

Thanks Mark.You are right,it was really cheap(23.87$).It was the first time i saw a saw like this in the ebay.co.uk.I am sure that neither the bidders in the UK,nor the seller knew what was it.The listing was up for 4 days without a bid,i was the only bidder.The seller was saying on the discription:engine display 45cc.

He told me that the saw has really good compression,the p/c is looking really great from the excaust but he listed it as condition unknown because the recoil slips every now and then so he couldn't get it to run.As you said,if it had a good p/c and spark,i think i made it perfect.We'll see.I will post when i get it to my hands.I hope to be good news.
 
Larry I remember suggesting this to you before and I am going to suggest it again. You need to do some research on your own. Spend some time reading on here everything even if you do not think it is important because somewhere, someplace, someone will post information you will need. I do not mean to read for a couple of weeks I mean for a couple of months. Eventually people will get tired of spoon feeding you the answers to questions you should already know. I am not trying to be a jerk, just giving you some good advice to make it more pleasant for all.
 
Ok but

Larry I remember suggesting this to you before and I am going to suggest it again. You need to do some research on your own. Spend some time reading on here everything even if you do not think it is important because somewhere, someplace, someone will post information you will need. I do not mean to read for a couple of weeks I mean for a couple of months. Eventually people will get tired of spoon feeding you the answers to questions you should already know. I am not trying to be a jerk, just giving you some good advice to make it more pleasant for all.

I didn't know there was a required level of chainsaw education before a member can ask questions. I do go on this website a couple of times a day and read all postings on this thread and Pioneer.
I learn this stuff by trying to do it on my own first. When I get stuck, I ask. As you can see, I am not afraid to ask what may seem like basic questions to you.
If you ,or anyone else, chose not to answer my questions, you are free not to respond. I thought that this site had members from all walks of life bound by a common affection for chainsaws. Why should I "already know" anything?
Larry
 
I didn't know there was a required level of chainsaw education before a member can ask questions. I do go on this website a couple of times a day and read all postings on this thread and Pioneer.
I learn this stuff by trying to do it on my own first. When I get stuck, I ask. As you can see, I am not afraid to ask what may seem like basic questions to you.
If you ,or anyone else, chose not to answer my questions, you are free not to respond. I thought that this site had members from all walks of life bound by a common affection for chainsaws. Why should I "already know" anything?
Larry

Ok Larry have it your way.
 
I ran into something new tonight. When my Craftsman, a rebadged Poulan 2400 (rear handle version of the 2300CVA) arrived a few days ago, I noticed that the recoil wasn't catching, something the seller neglected to mention in the feePay listing. Tonight I decided to tear it down to see check it over.

The recoil isn't catching because the fins on the flywheel that hold the pawls are broken off, but all of the other fins are fine. Has anybody ran into this?

I cleaned about 3/4 of pound of crud out of the saw, & that was just a superficial cleaning. At least the P&C look good.

I'll soon have my third Craftsman version of the 2300CVA & 2400, maybe out of the three I'll get a good runner with plenty of spare parts.

Recently received.
Craftsman Chain Saw for Parts or Repair Only | eBay

One I've had for a while.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h...n 358356230 chainsaw/Poulan2400CraftsmanP.jpg

Recently won.
Craftsman Chainsaw | eBay
 
I am a semi-retired accountant but fairly handy. No real mechanical experience except fixing all the stuff around the house and yard. No in-depth engine stuff. Half polish so my plumbing talents are my best.
Nobody answere the question as to whether or not the flywheel is perfectly round. It is really a simple yes or no.
Larry

Well Larry, maybe you should stick to plumbing.

Personally with these questions, I really think your just playing with us to make us think your really that uninformed.

Now if I'm wrong and you really are that dense, then I hope to hell you stay away from chainsaws all together. They can be dangerous and you could end up dead.
 
I ran into something new tonight. When my Craftsman, a rebadged Poulan 2400 (rear handle version of the 2300CVA) arrived a few days ago, I noticed that the recoil wasn't catching, something the seller neglected to mention in the feePay listing. Tonight I decided to tear it down to see check it over.

The recoil isn't catching because the fins on the flywheel that hold the pawls are broken off, but all of the other fins are fine. Has anybody ran into this?

I cleaned about 3/4 of pound of crud out of the saw, & that was just a superficial cleaning. At least the P&C look good.

I'll soon have my third Craftsman version of the 2300CVA & 2400, maybe out of the three I'll get a good runner with plenty of spare parts.

Recently received.
Craftsman Chain Saw for Parts or Repair Only | eBay

One I've had for a while.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h...n 358356230 chainsaw/Poulan2400CraftsmanP.jpg

Recently won.
Craftsman Chainsaw | eBay

I do not have any of the 2300cva saws but I sure like the looks of them. I do have a 2000 how ever and really like it. It is my understanding the 2300cva is 38cc, that sure would make a great cutting saw in a small package.
 
I do not have any of the 2300cva saws but I sure like the looks of them. I do have a 2000 how ever and really like it. It is my understanding the 2300cva is 38cc, that sure would make a great cutting saw in a small package.
I have a trio of them in various states... I'd like to sell them... Hint hint..
 
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