Nik's Poulan Thread

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Stock Apearing 4200/sn706722 RH Poulan saw Engine | eBay

Seen that long ago and keeps re-posting it FS. :msp_wink: Vince is selling it.

 

[dce1843]

2150 fuel lines

Could one of you guys help me out here? My uncle wanted me to get his little saw runnin. Fuel lines were all rotten and he already took the lines off attempting to fix it. I put new lines and filter and cleaned the carb up. It will run for a second then stall. I dont think I have the lines on right. Does anybody have a illustration or could tell me how they go?

 

[Kostas]

Wow, that thing looks to be in nice shape.

As for the cyl gasket, you can go without one I guess but I pretty much use one myself. Just make sure your gasket material is not thicker then the original. I have some Garlock gasket paper here that is pretty thin, like .015" and I have used that to make base gaskets with. I would still give the gasket a thin coat of Dirko anyway though and it will never leak that way.

Yes,it is really like new.The only think that is "bad"on the saw is the paint but i have enough color from the last time i painted my 306A so it is not a big problem.I think i will follow your advice Mark.I will search for some gasket paper.

Kostas,

I rarely ever use a base gasket at all anymore.
I'm not real fond of the Dirko because it is too thin.

Bolt the cylinder onto the case (you can leave the rings off the piston to make it easier) and roll the crank over a few times to make sure you aren't hitting anywhere.
Take a thin piece of lead solder and put it through the sparkplug hole all the way to the edge of the cylinder. Turn the crank one full revolution and remove the solder and measure with calipers if you have some (if not don't sweat it because if you can turn the crankshaft completely over you will be in good shape).
Do this at the 12-3-6 and nine oclock positions, snipping the last 10mm off the solder each time with a pair of cutters.
As long as the measurement isn't less than .5mm you will be fine with out a gasket.
The solder I use is .89mm and I cannot compress it to less than .5mm by hand with reasonable pressure.
If you are .5mm or more you will be great to go gasketless.
I would apply the Dirko to the case as heavy as I could and let it set for a few minutes to dry some before installing.
I sure wish you had a tube of Permatex MotoSeal!!!:msp_sad:


Mike

Ok Mike,thanks for the tip.I will give it a shot tomorrow to see how it goes.If i am .5 mm or more i will try it with Sealant only but i think i will make a gasket to be sure.

I had access only to Dirko and Permatex Ultra Black so i took the Dirko.It is really hard to find The Motoseal or any of the ....Bond series.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Yes,it is really like new.The only think that is "bad"on the saw is the paint but i have enough color from the last time i painted my 306A so it is not a big problem.I think i will follow your advice Mark.I will search for some gasket paper.

Rock auto sells the "grab pack" of gasket material sheets for around 5 bucks. I'll try and find a part #. No cad sufferer should be without it.

Edit.... That was easier than I thought. Felpro 3060.

 

[zogger]

Could one of you guys help me out here? My uncle wanted me to get his little saw runnin. Fuel lines were all rotten and he already took the lines off attempting to fix it. I put new lines and filter and cleaned the carb up. It will run for a second then stall. I dont think I have the lines on right. Does anybody have a illustration or could tell me how they go?

Ya, here ya go. On the carb, two fittings. Clutch side of the saw is the inlet from the tank and fuel filter line. Use the closest tank hole right there below it. Other side of the carb you want a short piece that goes to the "suck" side of the primer bulb. The other primer bulb fitting is the return line back to the tank, the other hole.

Just remember on these purge/primer setups they suck the fuel through the carb. As far as I know, that is almost universal with two stroke small engines.

 

[Toolslinger]

3500 Starter

Ok... So I kicked around, and found the replacement parts for the starter/dogs on the 3500 I picked up a couple months ago... Everything about the saw looks/feels good except that aspect. So I put it all back together... Tried pulling it over, and it seemed to be harder than I thought it should be, so I pulled the plug, and it pulls over fine that way. Just more compression than I was expecting, but not like I couldn't pull it.

Well, pull it I did, and the brand new starter pulley, and one dog cracked... Friggin' plastic parts... Ugh... Well I cleaned that out, and gave it another go with a shot of starting fluid, the remaining dog, and it came happily to life...

So... Now I'm too far in to back out since it runs nicely (we won't talk about the crappy chain that it sports currently)... Are the starters on the 3500's just pathetically weak? Anyone happen to have a takeoff from a dead saw they would part with for cheap? I can get NOS again, but if its just going to blow the parts apart again, what's the point? Is there another model that would fit that say came with more robust parts?

-Tim

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Toolslinger..... You should really send that saw my way...I'll help you get out what you have in it!

I don't really know much about the starter for the 3500, but after minor research, I want one with a bad starter or not.

You probably got a defective part.

 

[Toolslinger]

I tell ya, if I get more parts, and it does it to me again, you'll be able to collect the pieces after I launch it over the border...
-Tim

 

[rms61moparman]

Ok... So I kicked around, and found the replacement parts for the starter/dogs on the 3500 I picked up a couple months ago... Everything about the saw looks/feels good except that aspect. So I put it all back together... Tried pulling it over, and it seemed to be harder than I thought it should be, so I pulled the plug, and it pulls over fine that way. Just more compression than I was expecting, but not like I couldn't pull it.

Well, pull it I did, and the brand new starter pulley, and one dog cracked... Friggin' plastic parts... Ugh... Well I cleaned that out, and gave it another go with a shot of starting fluid, the remaining dog, and it came happily to life...

So... Now I'm too far in to back out since it runs nicely (we won't talk about the crappy chain that it sports currently)... Are the starters on the 3500's just pathetically weak? Anyone happen to have a takeoff from a dead saw they would part with for cheap? I can get NOS again, but if its just going to blow the parts apart again, what's the point? Is there another model that would fit that say came with more robust parts?

-Tim

I tell ya, if I get more parts, and it does it to me again, you'll be able to collect the pieces after I launch it over the border...
-Tim

Toolslinger,

I'm not sure what the problem was with the starter or if you had a bit of a hydraulic lock going on, but there are a ship load of those saws cutting wood everyday.
If you are breaking brand new starters there is a deeper problem................or Mastermind (The King of High Compression) has had a hold of it!!!LOL


Mike

 

[fossil]

Never seen a XXV in these colors before

Interesting looking Craftsman version

 

[3000 FPS]

Interesting looking Craftsman version

Is it yours.

 

[fossil]

No. It's for sale

 

[Modifiedmark]

No. It's for sale

Canadian ?

Don't see many Micros with a power Sharp either. I would grab it up.

 

[67L36Driver]

Ya, here ya go. On the carb, two fittings. Clutch side of the saw is the inlet from the tank and fuel filter line. Use the closest tank hole right there below it. Other side of the carb you want a short piece that goes to the "suck" side of the primer bulb. The other primer bulb fitting is the return line back to the tank, the other hole.

Just remember on these purge/primer setups they suck the fuel through the carb. As far as I know, that is almost universal with two stroke small engines.

Yes! 'Primer' bulb is a misnomer.

With pics.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Interesting looking Craftsman version

Some poulan collector should put that one on the shelf :msp_thumbup: Nice find.

 

[fossil]

Canadian ?

Don't see many Micros with a power Sharp either. I would grab it up.

Craftsman XXV or Mac 300/380? Both are comparably priced and the Mac (McCollins, McClintoch MacGoogenheim) looks really good. The Poulan is supposed to run (I been to many who say that but it won't) and the the 300 or 380 (hoping it's a 380) doesn't but the seller said it fired once. Knowing him, he doesn't know much about saws and it likley has old mix in it.

Not sure which one to get. Both are 1-1/2 hours from the house in different directions. What a dilemma.

 

[Lignator]

Poulan XX rebuild

Hi All

I picked up a pair of Poulan XX top handled green machines this weekend. The plan is to make one saw from the pair. The jug looks to be in great shape and the guy I bought it from claims it was running last year. The big issue is it leaks oil like crazy.

I decided to tear the "good" saw all the way down. The only concerning thing I found was a bunch of crumpled fuel lines in the gas tank and oil tank.

I have learned that this saw had an impulse driven oiler in addition to the manual oiler.

There is a hole in the oil tank with a bit of fuel line broken off in it and a hole with nothing in it in the crank case. Both saws have this crankcase hole.

I reviewed the IPL tonight and determined the following / have the following questions:


530019068, cylinder gasket, might just make one with spray copper and gasket material

53001969, carb adapter gasket, might make one

530021014 bulk fuel line, have some from Dolmar that might work, or will buy Tygon from McMaster

530023502 air filter, mine is just wire at this point, only have one

530019062, case gasket, prob should buy one if I can find it, but if not can I RTV it?

530021017, impulse line (same as above fuel line?)

530022102, check valve, where does this go?

530022132, vent plug assy, where does this go?

530021023, line, oil tank vent, where does this go?

If anyone has any picture I would appreciate it. My parts saw isn't complete and the oiler pluming is a bit confusing based on the IPL.

I will post some pics of my pile of parts

 

[fastLeo151]

D

What other model saws can I steal a chain break side cover from? Mine is just the plain style without a brake mechanism.

This is for a pp365

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hi All

I picked up a pair of Poulan XX top handled green machines this weekend. The plan is to make one saw from the pair. The jug looks to be in great shape and the guy I bought it from claims it was running last year. The big issue is it leaks oil like crazy.

I decided to tear the "good" saw all the way down. The only concerning thing I found was a bunch of crumpled fuel lines in the gas tank and oil tank.

I have learned that this saw had an impulse driven oiler in addition to the manual oiler.

There is a hole in the oil tank with a bit of fuel line broken off in it and a hole with nothing in it in the crank case. Both saws have this crankcase hole.

I reviewed the IPL tonight and determined the following / have the following questions:


530019068, cylinder gasket, might just make one with spray copper and gasket material

53001969, carb adapter gasket, might make one

530021014 bulk fuel line, have some from Dolmar that might work, or will buy Tygon from McMaster

530023502 air filter, mine is just wire at this point, only have one

530019062, case gasket, prob should buy one if I can find it, but if not can I RTV it?

530021017, impulse line (same as above fuel line?)

530022102, check valve, where does this go?

530022132, vent plug assy, where does this go?

530021023, line, oil tank vent, where does this go?

If anyone has any picture I would appreciate it. My parts saw isn't complete and the oiler pluming is a bit confusing based on the IPL.

I will post some pics of my pile of parts

Boy oh boy you dont ask for much. :hmm3grin2orange:

Welcome to the world of frustration with one of those little bundles of joy.

Might as well face it that thing needs to come completly apart and I mean all the way apart to do it right and where you only have to do it one time.

PM me your email address, I might just know a guy who has the service manual for those and it will answer alot of your questions easier then I can try to explain over the internet.

Like you said, basically plan on all new rubber parts and gaskets if you ever want it to run right and oil. Those 2 things go hand in hand on these.

To answer a few of you quesitons though, yes you need a case gasket as it sets the crank endplay, the oiler check valve goes in the end of the line from the crankcase and is inside the oil tank.

Off hand the fuel line is a 3/16" OD line and I think I used a 3/32ID on mine. Since your taking it all the way down, the oiler line should be rubber and the same size as the fuel line.

The oiler line comes from a hole in the crankcase up and under the clutch and the ign points and runs through the hole in the bottom side of the tank.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Sorry its a crappy picture just thought you guys want to see whats on my bench right now.

Its getting the full treatment.

Tonight was tear down, hopefully tomorrow night is clean up.