Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

Sorry its a crappy picture just thought you guys want to see whats on my bench right now.

Its getting the full treatment.

Tonight was tear down, hopefully tomorrow night is clean up.

For curiositiy's sake Mark, did you find much difference between the 8500 and the 5200?

 

[67 Mustang]

Poulan XX Rebuild


530023502 air filter, mine is just wire at this point, only have one

530019062, case gasket, prob should buy one if I can find it, but if not can I RTV it?

Above available on eBay. Case gasket still available from Poulan (Ordertree).

 

[Modifiedmark]

For curiositiy's sake Mark, did you find much difference between the 8500 and the 5200?

Just a few little things. The case's are more reinforced and the top cover mounting location is different on the 8500, intake is different and of course the top cover, air filter and air intake setup. The outlet on the muffler is a little different.

The PTO side of the crank is larger meaning it needs a different clutch spider, sprocket brg and sprocket.

Other then that its alot of the same. Same brgs, seals, piston, rings, cyl, carb, ign etc.

 

[Lignator]

Above available on eBay. Case gasket still available from Poulan (Ordertree).

Cool, thanks for the heads up.

 

[fossil]

Just a few little things. The case's are more reinforced and the top cover mounting location is different on the 8500, intake is different and of course the top cover, air filter and air intake setup. The outlet on the muffler is a little different.

The PTO side of the crank is larger meaning it needs a different clutch spider, sprocket brg and sprocket.

Other then that its alot of the same. Same brgs, seals, piston, rings, cyl, carb, ign etc.

I guess they were kind of hard to improve on. They would certainly get my vote for one of the best all time chainsaws.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I guess they were kind of hard to improve on. They would certainly get my vote for one of the best all time chainsaws.

Well I guess its like anything, you work to keep making things a little better.

Its intersting to see the little changes in the series. I mean the 5400 got a few little improments mainly the longer rear fuel tank and bigger bar studs, then the 8500 got those and then some more on top of them.

Same story and improvments with the others in that lineup as well, the 4200-4400-6900 and then the 4900-7700.

 

[Lignator]

Poulan XX Pictures

OK, as promised, here is where my XX rebuild is at......

Here is the pile of parts.

I was very happy to see a nice clean piston and cylinder. This picture is showing the transfers and the exhaust port. The big question is to port or not to port......

I am thinking I am going to get it running stock and then mess is it later. Honestly it doesn't seem like there is a whole lot to remove from this one, maybe just some blending of sharp corners.

 

[Lignator]

Mark, I was able to use the fuel line I had from my Dolmar rebuild. It isn't clear but is the right size! Hopefully it holds up well to fuel with ethanol in it.

One more question: Do I need the automatic oiler? Could I JB Weld or plug the hole in the oil tank and the crank case closed or is that blasphemy? The manual oiler seems to move ALOT of oil out to the bar. From some research on this forum it seems that impulse line check valve is prone to failure. Flooding the crank case with oil doesn't sound like much fun to me. Thoughts?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, I was able to use the fuel line I had from my Dolmar rebuild. It isn't clear but is the right size! Hopefully it holds up well to fuel with ethanol in it.

One more question: Do I need the automatic oiler? Could I JB Weld or plug the hole in the oil tank and the crank case closed or is that blasphemy? The manual oiler seems to move ALOT of oil out to the bar. From some research on this forum it seems that impulse line check valve is prone to failure. Flooding the crank case with oil doesn't sound like much fun to me. Thoughts?

Honestly, since you got it that far down, why not make it right? They worked fine when all the componets are in good shape. The checkvalve is nothing more then a plain ole Poulan duckbill valve and those are good for about 20 years it seems. :hmm3grin2orange:

I forgot that I photoed my Ridgid branded version when I done it some time back. Pictured are the connector, the duckbill, the line in the tank and the duckbill with a pice of larger hose over it. Thats all thats needed.

There was another type of check valve that was used that was a flat piece of plastic with a rubber flap type valve on it but that was a early version and NLA anyway.

 

[Modifiedmark]

The only thing I dont really like on these saws are the fixed high speed jet on them. I was always going to try a Tilly HU fully adjustable from a Micro to see if they would fit up on them. I think they would and would only need to drill the case for the extra adjusting screw.

 

[Lignator]

Hmmm....OK. The pictures are really helpful.

Doesn't seem too bad. Does that larger hose just float in the oil tank or is it housed by the mag casting? It looked like there was a boss that might house it on the cast side without the through hole.

So if I understand this correctly, the crank case is pressurizing the oil tank, which is forcing oil out of the tank through another check valve, onto the bar?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hmmm....OK. The pictures are really helpful.

Doesn't seem too bad. Does that larger hose just float in the oil tank or is it housed by the mag casting? It looked like there was a boss that might house it on the cast side without the through hole.

So if I understand this correctly, the crank case is pressurizing the oil tank, which is forcing oil out of the tank through another check valve, onto the bar?

Yes they hose and check valve gets tucked in to the top corner of the tank.

You got that right on the crankcase pressure pulse building a pressure in the tank, the check valve lets the pressure in on the down stroke of the piston, then shuts off on the up stoke of the piston stopping the vaccume in the line.

 

[Lignator]

I will have to check tomorrow, but I think I have some of those duck bill style check valves at work in a sample kit. I will just need to find a male male barb, which again I might have at work. That might mean the only parts I need to buy are the air filter and the case gasket.

BTW, do I need the oil filter or is it a nice to have part?

 

[Modifiedmark]

I will have to check tomorrow, but I think I have some of those duck bill style check valves at work in a sample kit. I will just need to find a male male barb, which again I might have at work. That might mean the only parts I need to buy are the air filter and the case gasket.

BTW, do I need the oil filter or is it a nice to have part?

Those pictures I posted show the Poulan part #'s for the connector and duckbill. There cheap parts, $2 for a duckbill and I think the connetor is like 69 cents.

If I remember right I just made the filter out of a piece of B&S air filter foam, and yeah you should have it.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

My little Poulan.

The chain runs backwards then forwards then stops...:biggrin:

 

[Wagnerwerks]

My little Poulan.

The chain runs backwards then forwards then stops...:biggrin:

I just went through a fairly in depth rebuild of the newer version of that saw if you need any tips with the chain issues.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/213505.htm

 

[3000 FPS]

My little Poulan.

The chain runs backwards then forwards then stops...:biggrin:

Man that thing is pretty. But I think the balls are on backwards.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

I just went through a fairly in depth rebuild of the newer version of that saw if you need any tips with the chain issues.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/213505.htm

You got to do what you got to do sometimes.

 

[3000 FPS]

Honestly, since you got it that far down, why not make it right? They worked fine when all the componets are in good shape. The checkvalve is nothing more then a plain ole Poulan duckbill valve and those are good for about 20 years it seems. :hmm3grin2orange:

I forgot that I photoed my Ridgid branded version when I done it some time back. Pictured are the connector, the duckbill, the line in the tank and the duckbill with a pice of larger hose over it. Thats all thats needed.

There was another type of check valve that was used that was a flat piece of plastic with a rubber flap type valve on it but that was a early version and NLA anyway.

You guys never cease to amaze me.

 

[67L36Driver]

My little Poulan.

The chain runs backwards then forwards then stops...:biggrin:

Not this one:

Can't seem to keep the chain tight.

Grandma got it free at a garage sale. Brody's (age 4) go to saw.......................................................