It looked to me like some kind of safety chain with those big bumpers on it. I cannot tell from that picture.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
My eyes are bad but I swear that chain is on backwards.
Messing with this saw for a friend of mine. It was barely used but sat dry for some years until currently. Its tough to start and then it will run good when you squeeze the trigger at WOT. It will bog down initially and sometimes shut off. Then it wont idle worth a damn. I tried messing with the throttle/idle to no change in performance. It ran best when I called it a night and drained the fuel out of it to run it dry, I left the gas cap off. Not sure if its cause it leaned out or maybe the gas cap vent is plugged. Any idea's? P.S fuel lines are all intact and i dont have a carb tool to adjust the H L jets the moment.
Good catch Jeremiah.
Overtrained,
When you change the chain over and get it running well, your friend will think you're a wizard.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Crank bearings.
I just wanted to pass this on. I bought a sleeve of 10 old stock 6201v motor quality bearings on eBay and they do in fact look to be real USA made NTN bearings. These fit the 2900 poulan and I believe the 255 poulan pro and any other saw in that series. They have seals, but they can be picked out easy enough.
10 for $12 shipped. What a freakin deal.
In addition to that, they are also the rear bearing in a bosch alternator. I have purchased many of them @ 13 bucks a piece.
Search NTN 6201
He only has 43 more sleeves so get them fast...lol
I just wanted to pass this on. I bought a sleeve of 10 old stock 6201v motor quality bearings on eBay and they do in fact look to be real USA made NTN bearings. These fit the 2900 poulan and I believe the 255 poulan pro and any other saw in that series. They have seals, but they can be picked out easy enough.
10 for $12 shipped. What a freakin deal.
In addition to that, they are also the rear bearing in a bosch alternator. I have purchased many of them @ 13 bucks a piece.
Search NTN 6201
He only has 43 more sleeves so get them fast...lol
Overtrained
Not crazy, Stoopid!
Is the carb tool poulan specific?
Overtrained
Not crazy, Stoopid!
Thats pretty funny, i was to busy trying to get it to run i didnt even notice that. Im thinking he never ran it if that chain is on the wrong way.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Lots of newer poulan saws use it and some others like homelites. I got mine from eBay for cheap.
Also, I have had a pile of those saws, (295 and the likes from the 80s and early 90s) with bad crank seals.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 3700 saws are very easy to split. I've done several. No need for a case splitter like the Stihls and Huskys. Just use a good sealant like Dirko or Motoseal #1 and you won't have any leaks when replacing the halves. If you need the service manual let me know.
Bob
Depending on the year, you maynot need a carb tool. Just take the limiters off the carb screws and there slotted for a screw driver already.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
The saw that Overtrained posted is a 4620AVHD. Windows includes a zoom function; I found it by clicking on the sprocket icon / Alt X (tools) located next to the star icon / Alt C (favorites).
fastLeo151
Addicted to ArboristSite
pp 365
What other model saws can I steal a chain break side cover from? Mine is just the plane style without a brake mechanism.
What other model saws can I steal a chain break side cover from? Mine is just the plane style without a brake mechanism.
simmslumber66
ArboristSite Member
Poulan paint?
I know this has probably been asked before, but, does anyone know of a good source for small quantities of paint similar to poulan paint?
I know this has probably been asked before, but, does anyone know of a good source for small quantities of paint similar to poulan paint?
Just adding info. Never needed a case splitter for any husky or poulan saw yet either. Poulan 425 415 475 505 330 3750 365 etc. Husky 362 365 372 371 346 etc.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Give me a hint on how to split my 346XP case. Thought you needed a splitter.
Bob
4200.
Finally i disassemble the 4200,remove the rear handle and the p/c.That thing was real dirty.I cleaned it very well and all the components are in perfect condition.Even the duckbill is like new.I am sure that the saw didn't see much use which makes me very happy.I will post some pictures later.
What i want to ask is that i destroyed the cylinder gasket.What are the options?If i only put sealant(i have the Dirko) will be ok?If i must cut a gasket,what kind of gasket paper will i need(the thickness of the original gasket was 0.5 mm more or less).I mean that every gasket paper will do the job (temprature and compression)or should i look for something special?
Finally i disassemble the 4200,remove the rear handle and the p/c.That thing was real dirty.I cleaned it very well and all the components are in perfect condition.Even the duckbill is like new.I am sure that the saw didn't see much use which makes me very happy.I will post some pictures later.
What i want to ask is that i destroyed the cylinder gasket.What are the options?If i only put sealant(i have the Dirko) will be ok?If i must cut a gasket,what kind of gasket paper will i need(the thickness of the original gasket was 0.5 mm more or less).I mean that every gasket paper will do the job (temprature and compression)or should i look for something special?
Wow, that thing looks to be in nice shape.
As for the cyl gasket, you can go without one I guess but I pretty much use one myself. Just make sure your gasket material is not thicker then the original. I have some Garlock gasket paper here that is pretty thin, like .015" and I have used that to make base gaskets with. I would still give the gasket a thin coat of Dirko anyway though and it will never leak that way.
I just use rubber hammer, center punch and 3lb hammer. All I have ever needed to split any saw so far. Just my redneck way.
I had a guy mail me a 372 that he said he had been trying to remove the crank for weeks. Took me 30mins to remove it.
You might like Brad's way better then mine. He dont use a splitter still as far as I know too. :msp_wink:
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Kostas,
I rarely ever use a base gasket at all anymore.
I'm not real fond of the Dirko because it is too thin.
Bolt the cylinder onto the case (you can leave the rings off the piston to make it easier) and roll the crank over a few times to make sure you aren't hitting anywhere.
Take a thin piece of lead solder and put it through the sparkplug hole all the way to the edge of the cylinder. Turn the crank one full revolution and remove the solder and measure with calipers if you have some (if not don't sweat it because if you can turn the crankshaft completely over you will be in good shape).
Do this at the 12-3-6 and nine oclock positions, snipping the last 10mm off the solder each time with a pair of cutters.
As long as the measurement isn't less than .5mm you will be fine with out a gasket.
The solder I use is .89mm and I cannot compress it to less than .5mm by hand with reasonable pressure.
If you are .5mm or more you will be great to go gasketless.
I would apply the Dirko to the case as heavy as I could and let it set for a few minutes to dry some before installing.
I sure wish you had a tube of Permatex MotoSeal!!!:msp_sad:
Mike
