Go back in the thread. Mark posted one of the 8500 cutting.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Go back in the thread. Mark posted one of the 8500 cutting.
Chris B.
Now comes the question: Is that feller lookin' thru them glasses or over 'em..............................................................?:hmm3grin2orange:
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Real good question. Seems like a friendly fellar, though!
3 saws for $150 will seperate. one is a 5200.
Someone might be able to get it cheap.
That's all I know.
j
3 chainsaws ***must go***
Someone might be able to get it cheap.
That's all I know.
j
3 chainsaws ***must go***
3400 chain keeps spinning
OK, dumb question here:
I've got a 3400 whose chain keeps spinning the whole time it runs. This is a new to me saw. It starts and runs well. When I got it, the chain and sprocket were pretty well worn. I bought a new rim and drum sprocket, new bar and chain to put on it and get things right. As soon as I start it, the chain starts spinning, even moves a little while I'm pulling the starter. I've now taken it apart several times, cleaned out the clutch and even tried another clutch off a donor 3700. No matter what I do, the chain still spins. I've also adjusted the idle down so low as to stall it and the chain keeps spinning until it dies. The clutch spring doesn't seem weak and before putting the clutch cover on, you can spin the drum easily without the clutch turning. I have not replaced the needle bearing, but have lubed it with grease prior to installation.
Seems like a needle bearing that isn't allowing the drum to spin easily, independently from the shaft/clutch, might be the problem.
Is the needle bearing the most likely problem? What else could cause this? Some other form of misalignment? Weak Clutch spring? Anything else?
P.S. Should I be posting this here or in the main forum?
OK, dumb question here:
I've got a 3400 whose chain keeps spinning the whole time it runs. This is a new to me saw. It starts and runs well. When I got it, the chain and sprocket were pretty well worn. I bought a new rim and drum sprocket, new bar and chain to put on it and get things right. As soon as I start it, the chain starts spinning, even moves a little while I'm pulling the starter. I've now taken it apart several times, cleaned out the clutch and even tried another clutch off a donor 3700. No matter what I do, the chain still spins. I've also adjusted the idle down so low as to stall it and the chain keeps spinning until it dies. The clutch spring doesn't seem weak and before putting the clutch cover on, you can spin the drum easily without the clutch turning. I have not replaced the needle bearing, but have lubed it with grease prior to installation.
Seems like a needle bearing that isn't allowing the drum to spin easily, independently from the shaft/clutch, might be the problem.
Is the needle bearing the most likely problem? What else could cause this? Some other form of misalignment? Weak Clutch spring? Anything else?
P.S. Should I be posting this here or in the main forum?
I'm interested in that 5200. Sent you a PM.
Only thing I can tell ya is, make sure all the parts are in good shape and install them in the correct order. There is a thrust washer that goes on the crank shaft first. Then the bearing & drum. Followed by the large flat clutch plate, (the big flat washer). Then the clutch spider assembly, with the spring to the back side. Believe it or not, I have seen someone try putting that on backwards.
Gregg,
Should look like this when done. I looked, but don't have any pics of the individual parts.:msp_mad:
Gregg,
Gregg,
Only thing I can tell ya is, make sure all the parts are in good shape and install them in the correct order. There is a thrust washer that goes on the crank shaft first. Then the bearing & drum. Followed by the large flat clutch plate, (the big flat washer). Then the clutch spider assembly, with the spring to the back side. Believe it or not, I have seen someone try putting that on backwards.
Gregg,
Thanks. I've pretty much done all that and remember all those parts and the order. The clutch is on facing the right direction. The only thing I can think of is the needle bearing. I did notice your bar plate in the photo has the chain tensioner slot on the side next to the saw. Isn't that the plate that fits on the clutch cover? I think I have one bar plate w/o the slot for the tensioner.
Could the thrust washer be pushing on the drum, causing it to spin? Looks like the thrust washer on mine rides on the shoulder of the drive shaft. I don't think the clutch is the problem, There shouldn't be a problem with using a rim and drum sprocket to replace the spur sprocket, should there?
That plate that is on he saw is the inner bar plate. It has the slot at the top where the oil comes through. The outer plate has no slot in it at the top. Otherwise, they are the same. You can run an inner plate on the outside, but your chain would be severely lacking oil the other way around.
Gregg,
Here is one with the outer plate on. Notice there isn't a slot for the oiler path. The lower slots for the tensioner are the same.
Gregg,
Gregg,
What brand rim sprocket/drum are you trying to run? If its a Oregon or Poulan branded then no. If its a off brand like GB or Herr, I have seen some where the center is like swaged to the drum and will rub on the inner washer and bind things up.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is one with the outer plate on. Notice there isn't a slot for the oiler path. The lower slots for the tensioner are the same.
Gregg,
What procedure are u using to open your pictures?
Bob
Same as I always have Bob. Kinda hard to explain, but works for me.
I click the file I want on Photo Bucket, select image code, I think it is. Then in in AS, I click insert image, then select from URL at that first box, then uncheck the little box. Then paste the file in the box. After it puts the code in your message, it usually has double thingies at each end, don't know why, but I remove one at each end. So there is only One at each end. :laugh: Works for me, and easier to do than explain!:D
:cheers:
Gregg,
The thrust washer rides up against the step or shoulder on the shaft. They are fairly thin also. I suppose someone could have used a different, non correct washer on it. Nothing surprises me anymore at what ya might find on some of these older saws. You would think they were owned and kept running by old farmers like me.
I have seen glue, tape, wire, square head nuts & bolts, wood screws, various machine screws, all sorts of modified (non-air filters), same for fuel filters & lines. 
Gregg,
I have had a couple of these after market sprockets where the sprocket itself was to wide. I had to actually grind the sprocket down and make it thinner or else when the clutch was threaded on it would bind up on the clutch drum because the sprocket was pushing it out to far. If you hold the new sprocket next to the old one both should be the same width. I just put them back to back for a comparison. If they are not that could be your problem.
Mark,
You may have hit the nail on the head. It's a GB rim and drum, so that may be the problem. I thought it must be something like that, but didn't know what. Thanks for the insight. Do you have a good source for the Poulan or Oregon Rim and drum sprocket?
David
Thanks MM, OhioGregg, 3000FPS for your replies. I just knew it was something a little off the wall like that. I was very careful to note the order and direction things came off in and even had a second 3700 to take apart compare and use the clutch off. I wouldn't have been surprised about someone using the wrong thing for a thrust washer, either. The previous owner DID have the bar plates installed wrong and I had to figure out what was wrong there.
Anyway, I think you've got me looking in the right direction for a cure.
Thanks,
David
Anyway, I think you've got me looking in the right direction for a cure.
Thanks,
David
I used to be that determined individual. [/QUOTE]
so was my old man!
[/QUOTE]so was my old man!
