Nik's Poulan Thread

[dboyd351]

What brand rim sprocket/drum are you trying to run? If its a Oregon or Poulan branded then no. If its a off brand like GB or Herr, I have seen some where the center is like swaged to the drum and will rub on the inner washer and bind things up.

That's exactly what was happening. The center portion of the drum is raised on the inside by about the thickness of a quarter and that apparently makes contact between the clutch spider and the large washer inside the clutch drum, creating a situation where the clutch can't free-wheel, so the chain turns all the time. I took the GB rim and drum sprocket off and put on an Oregon spur sprocket and the saw will now idle without the chain turning. View attachment 270909

 

[Modifiedmark]

That's exactly what was happening. The center portion of the drum is raised on the inside by about the thickness of a quarter and that apparently makes contact between the clutch spider and the large washer inside the clutch drum, creating a situation where the clutch can't free-wheel, so the chain turns all the time. I took the GB rim and drum sprocket off and put on an Oregon spur sprocket and the saw will now idle without the chain turning. View attachment 270909

I think GB didnt intend for that large inner washer to be used with that sprocket. Try it that way once.

 

[dboyd351]

I think GB didnt intend for that large inner washer to be used with that sprocket. Try it that way once.

I did try it without the large washer and it still spun.

 

[3000 FPS]

I did try it without the large washer and it still spun.

That is probably due to the sprocket on the back of that drum is to wide.

 

[dboyd351]

That is probably due to the sprocket on the back of that drum is to wide.

You may very well be right, I think it is wider. I've just taken this thing off enough times at the moment I just want it to run. Shouldn't have to do all that crap to make a sprocket and drum work when it was sold as fitting a 3400. Now I've got to decide whether to try and return it. I'm also trying to get the oiler working right, so I'm done with the sprocket for now.
I DO very much appreciate the help you guys have given me, though!

 

[67L36Driver]

Torrington inner race has worn down too short. Had that problem on a 306A. Used my dial calipers to cull thur my collection to find the longest one.

.012" in length made the difference.

The inner race is normally a 1/64" longer than the bearing needle/cage assembly.

 

[dboyd351]

Torrington inner race has worn down too short. Had that problem on a 306A. Used my dial calipers to cull thur my collection to find the longest one.

.012" in length made the difference.

The inner race is normally a 1/64" longer than the bearing needle/cage assembly.

That's interesting, 67L. Are you saying the inner bearing surface on the drum (the hole in the drum) is supposed to be 1/64" longer than the total length of the needle bearing (cage and all)? Or that the needle bearing cage is supposed to be 1/64" longer than the needles themselves?
Either way, is this something a brand new needle bearing would fix?

If I decide to give the Rim and drum sprocket a try again, I'll try it with a new needle bearing, if you think that will fix it.

 

[barneyrb]

With all this talk about sprockets I did something this afternoon I am sorta proud of myself. I took a new rim drive setup on a PP295 with a 3/8-7. I didn't have a bearing so I pressed the factory bearing out of the .325 factory spur gear, bored the Oregon drum (because the factory bearing was too big for the hole and I didn't have #530032119), pressed the bearing in, put on a 041 mount bar (modified a touch in the adjusting holes for better oiling), put a 16" loop (56dl) of Stihl PS3 picco full chisel, and then tried it out. Gots to say, that picco chain 3/8 lo pro with the 7 pin sprocket on that little 295 RIPS....

On the lathe that was a breeze to bore with a carbide cutter bit. I should have done this years ago..

 

[Modifiedmark]

Torrington inner race has worn down too short. Had that problem on a 306A. Used my dial calipers to cull thur my collection to find the longest one.

.012" in length made the difference.

The inner race is normally a 1/64" longer than the bearing needle/cage assembly.

Carl, pipe down will ya, your going to confuse him even more. The 3400 does not use a inner race on that brg setup.

That's interesting, 67L. Are you saying the inner bearing surface on the drum (the hole in the drum) is supposed to be 1/64" longer than the total length of the needle bearing (cage and all)? Or that the needle bearing cage is supposed to be 1/64" longer than the needles themselves?
Either way, is this something a brand new needle bearing would fix?

If I decide to give the Rim and drum sprocket a try again, I'll try it with a new needle bearing, if you think that will fix it.

Forget what he said, it dont apply to your application.

That sprocket will not work for you without modifications, send it back for a refund if you can. If not send it to me and maybe I can put it in the lathe and make it work. Damn furrin parts!!!!

Like you noticed I have been through this stuff before, thats how I knew to ask what brand it was.

 

[fossil]

Poulan bar/chain combinations. Canadian Poulan list

With all the talk about .325 chains on a 3400 I pulled out a bulletin I got from Brian that lists bar/chain combos for various Poulan saws and branded counter parts. These were Canadian only I assume but it puts a few names out there that I didn't know about that sold re-badged Poulans. Looking at the 3400 series for Canadian Tire; I know they only had a 3400 and didn't have the 3700 or 4000. It's strange that Sears saws are not listed.
Anyway, here's the list.

Poulan bar-chain comb.PDF

 

[Modifiedmark]

One of the greatest members here some time ago sent me some Boysen reeds that fit the 4200-8500 saws and wanted me to try them.

I wanted to wait till I had the time to give them a complete testing with a couple different bar and chain combos as well as different size wood. That didnt happen quite that way.

I did set out to do that type of test and wanted to do it while Mike was here for his help and input. The biggest wood I had here was about 26" so I figured that would put enough load on it to give us something to go off of.

First off I wanted to use my old 5200 that I use, most the time and we did, but it had been sitting for sometime and decided to give us a little trouble. Nothing serious, it had a slight air leak at the carb gasket and before it was done it decided to give us some recoil problems as well. We got it all fixed and went on with the testing.

I would like to know who the genius was who thought a open loop on the anchor end of the recoil spring was a good idea. It shows why Poulan upgraded the recoil assy on the second generation 5400 though.

I usally fight and struggle to reloop the end of the spring and braze it together and its not easy to do. Mike got me to try his trick of actually drilling a small hole through the loose end of the loop and the spring and using a small finishing nail to put though the hole and make a rivit out of it. Worked slick!

So all said and done we didnt get time to go all overboard testing, but did get some done.

Here is one cut with the stock reeds. As you can see, the saw was just resting on the log, no dogging in or anything. Mike took times while I ran the saw and my daughter ran the camera. After this run I did run a couple more cuts, one dogging in a little like I useally do and one really dogged in a pulling hard on it.

Poulan5200test1strunstock_zpsefb8cf38.mp4 video by Modifiedmark | Photobucket

After the Boysen reeds were put in we ran it again and Mike timed it. As you can see through the second cut in this one I dogged it in pretty good and the saw pulled really hard.

Poulan5200test3cutsBoysen_zpsbcfdca2a.mp4 video by Modifiedmark | Photobucket

You will have to get Mike to chime in on the times, I dont remember them, but I remember he said it was a little faster without dogging in with the Boysenn reeds. To me it wasnt night and day difference but it did seem to pull a little harder dogged in with the Boysen reeds.

 

[fossil]

One of the greatest members here some time ago sent me some Boysen reeds that fit the 4200-8500 saws and wanted me to try them.

I wanted to wait till I had the time to give them a complete testing with a couple different bar and chain combos as well as different size wood. That didnt happen quite that way.

I did set out to do that type of test and wanted to do it while Mike was here for his help and input. The biggest wood I had here was about 26" so I figured that would put enough load on it to give us something to go off of.

First off I wanted to use my old 5200 that I use, most the time and we did, but it had been sitting for sometime and decided to give us a little trouble. Nothing serious, it had a slight air leak at the carb gasket and before it was done it decided to give us some recoil problems as well. We got it all fixed and went on with the testing.

I would like to know who the genius was who thought a open loop on the anchor end of the recoil spring was a good idea. It shows why Poulan upgraded the recoil assy on the second generation 5400 though.

I usally fight and struggle to reloop the end of the spring and braze it together and its not easy to do. Mike got me to try his trick of actually drilling a small hole through the loose end of the loop and the spring and using a small finishing nail to put though the hole and make a rivit out of it. Worked slick!

So all said and done we didnt get time to go all overboard testing, but did get some done.

Here is one cut with the stock reeds. As you can see, the saw was just resting on the log, no dogging in or anything. Mike took times while I ran the saw and my daughter ran the camera. After this run I did run a couple more cuts, one dogging in a little like I useally do and one really dogged in a pulling hard on it.

Poulan5200test1strunstock_zpsefb8cf38.mp4 video by Modifiedmark | Photobucket

After the Boysen reeds were put in we ran it again and Mike timed it. As you can see through the second cut in this one I dogged it in pretty good and the saw pulled really hard.

Poulan5200test3cutsBoysen_zpsbcfdca2a.mp4 video by Modifiedmark | Photobucket

You will have to get Mike to chime in on the times, I dont remember them, but I remember he said it was a little faster without dogging in with the Boysenn reeds. To me it wasnt night and day difference but it did seem to pull a little harder dogged in with the Boysen reeds.

Mark, I do believe that the stock 5200 was a hair faster than the 8500 although not near as sharp looking. I am envious that you have both. I have to get a longer bar (for the saw I mean)

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, I do believe that the stock 5200 was a hair faster than the 8500 although not near as sharp looking. I am envious that you have both. I have to get a longer bar (for the saw I mean)

I dont know about the 5200 being faster, maybe it is maybe not. The log we ran the 8500 was not the same log the 5200 was running in. This ole 5200 has been around a bit and it for sure runs good, the 8500 basically had a brand new top end on it and was the first time it was run. I'm assuming it still needs run a bit more to fully seat the rings.

 

[fossil]

I dont know about the 5200 being faster, maybe it is maybe not. The log we ran the 8500 was not the same log the 5200 was running in. This ole 5200 has been around a bit and it for sure runs good, the 8500 basically had a brand new top end on it and was the first time it was run. I'm assuming it still needs run a bit more to fully seat the rings.

Either way Mark, both great saws.

On a Timmy happy note, my ( perfect) wife says I should head out and find another chainsaw to play with. How do yo refuse that?
I think I'll go tomorrow.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Either way Mark, both great saws.

On a Timmy happy note, my ( perfect) wife says I should head out and find another chainsaw to play with. How do yo refuse that?
I think I'll go tomorrow.

Heck ya!

 

[3000 FPS]

Once again Mark seeing one of those 5200's run sure is impressive. You could really hear the engine with all that torque just keep going when you were dogging in.

 

[Lignator]

XXV AV rebuild

Well....I started to clean up the 24 CVA that I picked up last weekend.

I sanded all the paint off the bar as the previous owner had repainted it and looked like hell. Overall the bar looks to be in good shape. The chain was toast, teeth were broken ect. I had a Stihl low profile hanging around that had a few bent drive links (don't ask). My local dealer was nice enough to rejoin the chain at the proper length free of charge today! I had been running it on an 024 Stihl and it could really move through the wood.

I scraped all the carbon out of the muffler. What do you guys do to these muffler? Do I need the 2 inner baffle plates? At the very least it is going to get some high heat paint.

The power head was really dirty. I started picking away at it and got alot of the heavy grime off. It needs a good bath in mineral spirits, but it is too cold tonight for that. Will have to wait for the weekend most likely.

Does anyone have a place to get a new decal for the starter cover? Mine is peeled around the edges and would love to replace it. Also, is the flywheel cover held together with drive rivets? I would like to really clean it up, but it looks like it is permanently assembled.

Here are some pics for your enjoyment. Any suggestions on rebuild are appreciated. I am thinking I am going to check squish and if possible, drop the cylinder down to around 0.020" I haven't checked compression, but the cylinder doesn't look too bad through the exhaust port. I don't think I need to replace any of the case gaskets as it doesn't seem to leak any fluids. I was thinking about smoothing out the exhaust port and intake port. Do you get any gains from massaging these saws?

 

[dboyd351]

Well....I started to clean up the 24 CVA that I picked up last weekend.

I sanded all the paint off the bar as the previous owner had repainted it and looked like hell. Overall the bar looks to be in good shape. The chain was toast, teeth were broken ect. I had a Stihl low profile hanging around that had a few bent drive links (don't ask). My local dealer was nice enough to rejoin the chain at the proper length free of charge today! I had been running it on an 024 Stihl and it could really move through the wood.

I scraped all the carbon out of the muffler. What do you guys do to these muffler? Do I need the 2 inner baffle plates? At the very least it is going to get some high heat paint.

The power head was really dirty. I started picking away at it and got alot of the heavy grime off. It needs a good bath in mineral spirits, but it is too cold tonight for that. Will have to wait for the weekend most likely.

Does anyone have a place to get a new decal for the starter cover? Mine is peeled around the edges and would love to replace it. Also, is the flywheel cover held together with drive rivets? I would like to really clean it up, but it looks like it is permanently assembled.

Here are some pics for your enjoyment. Any suggestions on rebuild are appreciated. I am thinking I am going to check squish and if possible, drop the cylinder down to around 0.020" I haven't checked compression, but the cylinder doesn't look too bad through the exhaust port. I don't think I need to replace any of the case gaskets as it doesn't seem to leak any fluids. I was thinking about smoothing out the exhaust port and intake port. Do you get any gains from massaging these saws?

For starters, I'd say you need to replace the fuel lines, fuel filter and air filter, clean out the carb area, put in a carb kit and find out why there is so much sawdust in there. Was there an air filter in there at all? There should also be a little piece of foam helping seal the opening where the throttle rod comes thru the housing. Looks like it is there, but maybe not sealing.

ModifiedMark did an great step by step tutorial on replacing the fuel lines in this saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm

You did an excellent job cleaning off that bar!

I'm sure the real Poulan gurus will have lots more to add.

 

[3000 FPS]

For starters, I'd say you need to replace the fuel lines, fuel filter and air filter, clean out the carb area, put in a carb kit and find out why there is so much sawdust in there. Was there an air filter in there at all? There should also be a little piece of foam helping seal the opening where the throttle rod comes thru the housing. Looks like it is there, but maybe not sealing.

ModifiedMark did an great step by step tutorial on replacing the fuel lines in this saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm

You did an excellent job cleaning off that bar!

I'm sure the real Poulan gurus will have lots more to add.

Yep +1. You have a good start. The tutorial by ModifiedMark is good.

 

[rms61moparman]

Poulan5200test1strunstock_zpsefb8cf38.mp4 video by Modifiedmark | Photobucket

After the Boysen reeds were put in we ran it again and Mike timed it. As you can see through the second cut in this one I dogged it in pretty good and the saw pulled really hard.

Poulan5200test3cutsBoysen_zpsbcfdca2a.mp4 video by Modifiedmark | Photobucket

You will have to get Mike to chime in on the times, I dont remember them, but I remember he said it was a little faster without dogging in with the Boysenn reeds. To me it wasnt night and day difference but it did seem to pull a little harder dogged in with the Boysen reeds.

I'm not even gonna try to get specific on the times but the Boysen reeds and air leak repair gained about three quarters to 1 second.
Who can say what the time would have been if the saw didn't originally have a slight air leak, but I can say without reservation that the saw runs like a demon with the new reeds in.
If you are looking to squeeze all of the performance out of one of these saws, they are a must have.


Mike