Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

Craftsman 3.7 verification thin rings

I finally removed the muffler from my Craftsman 3.7 and verified thin rings, i have attached a pic of the rings as well as the model #.

View attachment 286584View attachment 286585

 

[Acornhill]

how many links in the 20" chain? i have a 72 and a 70 in my shed
sorry for repeat questions Mark. what 16" bar should i order with the ko95 mount, and how
many links would the 16" 3/8ths chain have? sorry still trying to understand chain sizes. thanks again
for the great pp5020AV thread you wrote :smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2

from what Mark has told me if it is a hard nose bar it is 72 links, if it is a sprocket nose bar it is 70 links,

 

[Acornhill]

Bow Bar installation #4484

Iron Mike and i were looking through one of the manuals i have and came across this page, outlining how to use the 4484 bow bar on a 4200/5200 series saw. well you guys can finish the story I am sure, really not any additional parts to use just a little filling etc. i will post additional pictures when i am done.:msp_w00t:

View attachment 286587

 

[3000 FPS]

I finally removed the muffler from my Craftsman 3.7 and verified thin rings, i have attached a pic of the rings as well as the model #.

View attachment 286584View attachment 286585

You are going to like that saw.

 

[Modifiedmark]

nthums1,
Here is a pic of a muffler I got from Poulan, for my PP380. Its not the same as what was on it, but either will work just fine. Mine is a type 1 from 1997. The plate you speak of,is just that, a heat shield.

Here is a shot of whats on it.

Here is the newer one.

Gregg,

That top muffler with the front outlet is the "chainbrake" muffler and is useally found on chainbrake equipped saws.

 

[Modifiedmark]

how many links in the 20" chain? i have a 72 and a 70 in my shed
sorry for repeat questions Mark. what 16" bar should i order with the ko95 mount, and how
many links would the 16" 3/8ths chain have? sorry still trying to understand chain sizes. thanks again
for the great pp5020AV thread you wrote :smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2:!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your 20" bar on the 5020 uses a 70DL chain.

Not to confuse you any more but I guess I should point out that a K095 mount bar uses a 72DL chain and I should have actually pointed out that your 5020 bar is actually a Z095 mount. Oregon used the "Z" designation when the bar used a non standard drive link count. So you see that the 70 drive link count is not really standard for a K095 bar.

70DL was a common drive link count for there 20" bars for years.



As for the 16", choose any K095 mount style you like, they should all be a 60 drive link chain on them. If it helps, just look up the bar for a Husqvarna 55 for reference, it will be the same as the one you would use on a 5020.

 

[Modifiedmark]

from what Mark has told me if it is a hard nose bar it is 72 links, if it is a sprocket nose bar it is 70 links,

Yes that is true as most the time, the older hardnosed bars were actually listed and measured as 21" bars.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well I got some wood cut this weekend and took my favorite PP365 to do most of it. I acually did use the 365 more then I wanted to, as the 2300CVA was having some chain throwing fits. I'll have to figure that out later, I never really had a saw give me trouble with that.

Got a pretty good load of White Oak hauled home.

 

[Acornhill]

i have a new top shelf saw 5400

Well here it is, after cleaning it up a little, ( i need some green paint) with 3ft bar thanks to Iron Mike.

this could be my new top shelf saw when i get done with it.

View attachment 286653View attachment 286654

 

[echoshawn]

Score PP655 having major flooding issues.... Help?!?

OK, Just picked up the 655, in really good condition. Gas in the tank was horribly varnished. I dumped it out, put some fresh mix in, and about 5 pulls later it coughed right to live. I happily paid the guy and loaded it up.
Well, I get home and it refused to start. Flushed out the tank, , and noticed a ton of black junk coming out... the fuel line in the tank had dissolved! So, fished the filter out, cleaned it all out, and replaced all fuel lines. While I was at it, popped the carb apart real quick to blast out the junk in it. I didn't have access to a carb kit, and the gaskets appeared to be OK, so I put it back together, planning on giving it a full rebuild soon.
So, once it's all back together, I finally got it running... for a short minute... It flooded out to the point that there's raw gas coming out of the exhaust. I pulled the muffler and am getting tons of raw gas coming out of the exhaust. I checked the tank level, and it's not like it's gone down, so I'm hoping that my case gasket isn't gone as well.
Is my carb just dumping raw gas thru into the case? Or am I looking at full dismantle and re-seal?
Last question.... The bar that came on it is an Oregon 28" that is obviously not made for the saw.. One of the adjuster holes on the bar was drilled out do the adjuster would fit. What is the proper bar for this saw? It's .404.

Any advice/tips/help would be appreciated!

 

[Modifiedmark]

Iron Mike and i were looking through one of the manuals i have and came across this page, outlining how to use the 4484 bow bar on a 4200/5200 series saw. well you guys can finish the story I am sure, really not any additional parts to use just a little filling etc. i will post additional pictures when i am done.:msp_w00t:

View attachment 286587

Just make sure if you ever cut the case and cover for a bow on one of those, to drill a hole in the corner where the 2 cuts meet to keep if from cracking out.

 

[Modifiedmark]

OK, Just picked up the 655, in really good condition. Gas in the tank was horribly varnished. I dumped it out, put some fresh mix in, and about 5 pulls later it coughed right to live. I happily paid the guy and loaded it up.
Well, I get home and it refused to start. Flushed out the tank, , and noticed a ton of black junk coming out... the fuel line in the tank had dissolved! So, fished the filter out, cleaned it all out, and replaced all fuel lines. While I was at it, popped the carb apart real quick to blast out the junk in it. I didn't have access to a carb kit, and the gaskets appeared to be OK, so I put it back together, planning on giving it a full rebuild soon.
So, once it's all back together, I finally got it running... for a short minute... It flooded out to the point that there's raw gas coming out of the exhaust. I pulled the muffler and am getting tons of raw gas coming out of the exhaust. I checked the tank level, and it's not like it's gone down, so I'm hoping that my case gasket isn't gone as well.
Is my carb just dumping raw gas thru into the case? Or am I looking at full dismantle and re-seal?
Last question.... The bar that came on it is an Oregon 28" that is obviously not made for the saw.. One of the adjuster holes on the bar was drilled out do the adjuster would fit. What is the proper bar for this saw? It's .404.

Any advice/tips/help would be appreciated!

Get the carb kit you need for it and make it a full rebuild kit, not just a D&G kit. Your needle valve is probably just stuck open and letting it flood itself to death.

 

[Modifiedmark]

You guys who wanted hats, make sure to check your email, as I sent a bunch out tonight.

 

[fossil]

OK, Just picked up the 655, in really good condition. Gas in the tank was horribly varnished. I dumped it out, put some fresh mix in, and about 5 pulls later it coughed right to live. I happily paid the guy and loaded it up.
Well, I get home and it refused to start. Flushed out the tank, , and noticed a ton of black junk coming out... the fuel line in the tank had dissolved! So, fished the filter out, cleaned it all out, and replaced all fuel lines. While I was at it, popped the carb apart real quick to blast out the junk in it. I didn't have access to a carb kit, and the gaskets appeared to be OK, so I put it back together, planning on giving it a full rebuild soon.
So, once it's all back together, I finally got it running... for a short minute... It flooded out to the point that there's raw gas coming out of the exhaust. I pulled the muffler and am getting tons of raw gas coming out of the exhaust. I checked the tank level, and it's not like it's gone down, so I'm hoping that my case gasket isn't gone as well.
Is my carb just dumping raw gas thru into the case? Or am I looking at full dismantle and re-seal?
Last question.... The bar that came on it is an Oregon 28" that is obviously not made for the saw.. One of the adjuster holes on the bar was drilled out do the adjuster would fit. What is the proper bar for this saw? It's .404.

Any advice/tips/help would be appreciated!

Put a carb kit in it and go from there. If the fuel line was dissolved you can bet your diaprams in the carb aren't in great shape.

 

[echoshawn]

Put a carb kit in it and go from there. If the fuel line was dissolved you can bet your diaprams in the carb aren't in great shape.

What would cause the fuel line to go like that? It almost looked like vacuum line, but, it had obviously been run with it in the past.
This is the same mix I run in all my saws, and no issues... Even the old POS Stihl I got for free with the the 655 is doing fine...

 

[Modifiedmark]

What would cause the fuel line to go like that? It almost looked like vacuum line, but, it had obviously been run with it in the past.
This is the same mix I run in all my saws, and no issues... Even the old POS Stihl I got for free with the the 655 is doing fine...

Old age, long storage, ethonal, etc will take its toll on fuel lines.

You want to see bad dissolved lines? Check out an old Echo that has been sitting, they turn to black goo, worse that I have ever seen.

Lots of guys will say to use this or that, but I have really only been using the newer style Oregon lines that are rated to 30% ethanol. I have had good luck with them.

 

[echoshawn]

Old age, long storage, ethonal, etc will take its toll on fuel lines.

You want to see bad dissolved lines? Check out an old Echo that has been sitting, they turn to black goo, worse that I have ever seen.

Lots of guys will say to use this or that, but I have really only been using the newer style Oregon lines that are rated to 30% ethanol. I have had good luck with them.

Black goo is exactly what I ended up with.. Was no fun to clean out.
I went with the clear line that I could grab from my local auto parts place since my saw shop was closed by that time.
I'll see if I can find the carb kit locally, otherwise it'll be evilbay...

Any thoughts on .404 bars? Or would I be better served swapping it over to 3/8?

Bailey's and the oregon site don't show any listings for .404 for the saw.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Black goo is exactly what I ended up with.. Was no fun to clean out.
I went with the clear line that I could grab from my local auto parts place since my saw shop was closed by that time.
I'll see if I can find the carb kit locally, otherwise it'll be evilbay...

Any thoughts on .404 bars? Or would I be better served swapping it over to 3/8?

Bailey's and the oregon site don't show any listings for .404 for the saw.

.404 or 3/8s, pick your poisen. That saw dont care and is happy with either.

Just so you know the mount originally for that saw is a D007 and not really made for it any more as I think you can only get 20" now for it.

The large mount Husky bar is a perfect fit for it if you file the slot out about .5mm. Homelite bars in the D096 mount will bolt right on as well.

My 655 has a 32" Husky mount bar on it in 3/8's with a 8 tooth sprocket.

 

[leecopland]

carbon removal

Hi Guys,

What are the normal methods for removing carbon from pistons and exhaust ports?

Many thanks,

Lee

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Old age, long storage, ethonal, etc will take its toll on fuel lines.

You want to see bad dissolved lines? Check out an old Echo that has been sitting, they turn to black goo, worse that I have ever seen.

Lots of guys will say to use this or that, but I have really only been using the newer style Oregon lines that are rated to 30% ethanol. I have had good luck with them.

I've cleaned that stuff out of old Homelites a lot..