Nik's Poulan Thread

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very strange,nice piston/rings but ruined cylinder.I thought that the chrome is harder than the aluminum except if previous owner replaced the piston/rings but left the cylinder.Anyway,i hope to find the parts you're looking for.Try chainsawr,they have plenty of used parts

Kostas, i am dealing with 2 6900's, the one with the very nice Piston/rings has the stripped spark plug threads. the one with the bad P/rings has the cyilnder with the transfer on the cylinder but i actually think it is damage to the cylinder past the chrome (i think you may be correct in the previous owner had already been in there.

these came from a tree service company that ran there stuff hard and i mean hard. i have known them since 1973.
 
time to ditch the helicoil and find a place that sells the timesert kits. they come in different sizes and will hold much better for sparkplugs. a bit more expensive than the helicoils but work much better.

++ BIG-SERT Oversized Spark plug thread repair kits ++ spark plug thread repair for oversized holes previously repaired spark plug holes threads stripped

thanks, i will try and locate one. the cylinder is cleaned up and the whole is straight now, i would like to get it to work that is for sure.

i don't bother with helicoils anymore. you never know when they will either come out with the plug or when they'll decide to try and screw themselves in further.
better yet, why not find a shop around you that does them? it would be far cheaper than buying the kit.
 
Mark/Greg

"I think the slots helped to let the crap out of the back of the cover instead of it just laying on the filter. The foam you put on is going to help do the same as a solid cover! "

"I tend to agree with Mark on the 3700 slotted cover. By adding that layer of foam is like blocking off the holes you made in the cover. But, who knows. As you can see, the slotted 3700 cover has a LOT of opening. The filter is pretty much exposed. "


View attachment 286064.....it seems so obvious now, they are exhaust slots, not intake slots:msp_w00t:....Fortunately what I lack in smarts, I make up for in persistance.:msp_rolleyes: Thanks for your patience and I am even laughing at myself right now.:msp_biggrin:
 
well i finally got a bow bar for my wife (she has always wanted to use one) it is for a 306A, 245A etc. i believe the # is 4484.

what do i need to install this on my 306A for her? i think it calls for 80 DL.

i neeed the bow bar clutch cover and screws as well as the bar plates. what else would i need?

thanks

You will need a clutch spacer, bow type front handle and handle mount. Maybe something else I'm forgetting.

Quite a bit of parts needed to put a bow on one.

I got the complete setup from a blown up 245 when I got mine, that way I didn't have to search out hard to find pieces.


There is a bow parts list in the back of some 306 or 245 IPL's , I know I posted it here before.
 
You will need a clutch spacer, bow type front handle and handle mount. Maybe something else I'm forgetting.

Quite a bit of parts needed to put a bow on one.

I got the complete setup from a blown up 245 when I got mine, that way I didn't have to search out hard to find pieces.


There is a bow parts list in the back of some 306 or 245 IPL's , I know I posted it here before.

ok thanks Mark, yes i have the IPL for it, guess i will go ask the gentleman that i got it from and see if he can locate any additional parts.
 
i don't bother with helicoils anymore. you never know when they will either come out with the plug or when they'll decide to try and screw themselves in further.
better yet, why not find a shop around you that does them? it would be far cheaper than buying the kit.

yes, i will try that as well, these 6900's are rare beasts that i am finding out from everyone PMing me. i want to fix them bad!!!
 
i don't bother with helicoils anymore. you never know when they will either come out with the plug or when they'll decide to try and screw themselves in further.
better yet, why not find a shop around you that does them? it would be far cheaper than buying the kit.

yes, i will try that as well, these 6900's are rare beasts that i am finding out from everyone PMing me. i want to fix them bad!!!

Like the 8500's and 7700's the 6900's are not as common as there earlier brothers and are not any more of a beast either.

That said I hope you get it fixed!
 
Like the 8500's and 7700's the 6900's are not as common as there earlier brothers and are not any more of a beast either.

That said I hope you get it fixed

with the bigger bar nuts and the larger clutch, different top/filter cover the appear stockier. I hope so as well Mark, i do have the 5400 ready for a chain now. they will be fixed one way or another. i thank you again for all of your help Mark

.
 
Going to go kill a couple trees tomorrow and wanted to take a top handle along.

Got to looking around and realized about all I have a antiques. :laugh: Not that I cant use them just not wanting to subject them to any rough stuff that might be going on tomorrow. Got to looking and remembered my 2300 cva that I have not really used since I got it running and in fact that was over 2 years ago. :laugh:

Got it out and remembered that it really wasnt running super great when I did get it going and found the fuel line was getting bad so I tore it down.

Decided that I would do a fuel line and go ahead and put a set of crank seals in it. There easy to do on them and after I put it back together it fired up in 4 pulls from dry and seems to run great, just like a new one. I'm getting to the point where I think crank seals are really becoming a must in any of these old saws that are this old.

Going to give it a work out tomorrow, and I dont expect any problems out of it. Oh and it oils like I could put a 32" bar on it! :laugh:
 
I dont think we ever set out to find any aftermarket seals for these micros, so I measured the seals while I had them out.

There a 1/2"shaft, 3/4" bore and 1/8" wide........

Looks like National 340847 seal should be the one needed.

.5 shaft, .75 housing bore, .756 OD and .125 width.
 
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Like the 8500's and 7700's the 6900's are not as common as there earlier brothers and are not any more of a beast either.

That said I hope you get it fixed

with the bigger bar nuts and the larger clutch, different top/filter cover the appear stockier. I hope so as well Mark, i do have the 5400 ready for a chain now. they will be fixed one way or another. i thank you again for all of your help Mark

.

They dont have a larger clutch, just the spider is different with a larger center hold for the larger crank dia.
 
Going to go kill a couple trees tomorrow and wanted to take a top handle along.

Got to looking around and realized about all I have a antiques. :laugh: Not that I cant use them just not wanting to subject them to any rough stuff that might be going on tomorrow. Got to looking and remembered my 2300 cva that I have not really used since I got it running and in fact that was over 2 years ago. :laugh:

Got it out and remembered that it really wasnt running super great when I did get it going and found the fuel line was getting bad so I tore it down.

Decided that I would do a fuel line and go ahead and put a set of crank seals in it. There easy to do on them and after I put it back together it fired up in 4 pulls from dry and seems to run great, just like a new one. I'm getting to the point where I think crank seals are really becoming a must in any of these old saws that are this old.

Going to give it a work out tomorrow, and I dont expect any problems out of it. Oh and it oils like I could put a 32" bar on it! :laugh:

I dont think we ever set out to find any aftermarket seals for these micros, so I measured the seals while I had them out.

There a 1/2"shaft, 3/4" bore and 1/8" wide........

Looks like National 340847 seal should be the one needed.

.5 shaft, .75 housing bore, .756 OD and .125 width.

Last month I looked up the 530019059 Poulan Micro crank seals on an SKF 'cross-over' utility, and it spit out SKF 4913. These are the same crank seals used on the little Homelite XL2/Super2 saws too. That cross-over deal also matched 4913 with one of the Homelite #'s for those seals.

I'm doing seals on a Micro and an XL2 soon, and was pleased to discover that they're the same part. Also...........the 530019059 is still available through my local Husky dealer for about $4.35 each. Good thing, as my local bearing house didn't have the 4913's. I'll have to ask them about that National # the next time I go there.

I agree about replacing crank seals on old saws. I've made up my mind to go through ALL of my old saws and replace the seals. Will take a while to get through all of them.....but it will be worth it. I'd been only replacing the seals on the saws that 'needed' it by not running right and/or not passing a vac/pres test. Had an experience which made me rethink the 'selective' seal replacement idea however...

My SXL-925W passed a vac/pres test when I first got the saw up and running last year. The last time I had that saw out (in late October), one of the seals decided to fail during a long bucking cut in some 36" douglas fir. I was right at the bottom of the cut when it leaned out like it was out of fuel (I'd refilled it two cuts previous). Stopped using the saw, and discovered an ashen white spark plug and some piston scoring/transfer. CRAP. Now it doesn't pass a vac test. Hopefully I can get away with some rings and a piston. Haven't torn it down yet. Still too iritated.....:bang:
 
I dont think we ever set out to find any aftermarket seals for these micros, so I measured the seals while I had them out.

There a 1/2"shaft, 3/4" bore and 1/8" wide........

Looks like National 340847 seal should be the one needed.

.5 shaft, .75 housing bore, .756 OD and .125 width.


That seal is really common here - my local bearing shop has them in stock all the time. I wonder if it is a common size for pumps or something? And cheap.
 
Last month I looked up the 530019059 Poulan Micro crank seals on an SKF 'cross-over' utility, and it spit out SKF 4913. These are the same crank seals used on the little Homelite XL2/Super2 saws too. That cross-over deal also matched 4913 with one of the Homelite #'s for those seals.

I'm doing seals on a Micro and an XL2 soon, and was pleased to discover that they're the same part. Also...........the 530019059 is still available through my local Husky dealer for about $4.35 each. Good thing, as my local bearing house didn't have the 4913's. I'll have to ask them about that National # the next time I go there.

I agree about replacing crank seals on old saws. I've made up my mind to go through ALL of my old saws and replace the seals. Will take a while to get through all of them.....but it will be worth it. I'd been only replacing the seals on the saws that 'needed' it by not running right and/or not passing a vac/pres test. Had an experience which made me rethink the 'selective' seal replacement idea however...

My SXL-925W passed a vac/pres test when I first got the saw up and running last year. The last time I had that saw out (in late October), one of the seals decided to fail during a long bucking cut in some 36" douglas fir. I was right at the bottom of the cut when it leaned out like it was out of fuel (I'd refilled it two cuts previous). Stopped using the saw, and discovered an ashen white spark plug and some piston scoring/transfer. CRAP. Now it doesn't pass a vac test. Hopefully I can get away with some rings and a piston. Haven't torn it down yet. Still too iritated.....:bang:

I lift the pressure in every single large cut on my 4200.If it burbles,then i keep going.I pressure/vacuum the saw a couple of days ago,both tests past so idecided not touch the crank seals.BTW, how do you replace the seals?The lisle tool is any good?
 
I lift the pressure in every single large cut on my 4200.If it burbles,then i keep going.I pressure/vacuum the saw a couple of days ago,both tests past so idecided not touch the crank seals.BTW, how do you replace the seals?The lisle tool is any good?

The Lisle tool isn't too bad but its not the be all to end all. It helps to file down the end of the tool so it fits in the riubber part of the seal. I find that's the most difficult part. Also getting proper leverage helps as not all seals come out that easily. I've even used a small screwdriver with a notch in the end to pry out seals.
Bob
 
No, I think it's electronic ignition. I know that if it's points ignition all I would need to do is adjust them a little closer. I don't think the electronic is adjustable without modifications.

cruising 3500 posts and thought I'd add to this old post.
I must say that this saw could definitely have benefited from a decompression valve. Mine has nearly removed my arm at the shoulder joint a few times.
I have no idea as to why the kickback or a fix. Too bad there is not a way to cheaply add one of those valves.
 
cruising 3500 posts and thought I'd add to this old post.
I must say that this saw could definitely have benefited from a decompression valve. Mine has nearly removed my arm at the shoulder joint a few times.
I have no idea as to why the kickback or a fix. Too bad there is not a way to cheaply add one of those valves.

It should not be that hard to pull over. Wonder if the flywheel has moved off the key..I'd check flywheel and nut to be sure they are tight and properly aligned.
 
I just want to give a special thanks to bcorradi for this PP 365. He came on and offered it at really decent price and I was lucky enough to get it. I removed the gas tank for a good cleaning and removed the cylinder and installed a new ring. The saw was dirty and needed fuels lines but other wise in good shape. I took a 20" bar I had and changed it from .325 to a .375 sprocket nose for this saw. I also took a oregon round ground chisel and square ground it.

Thanks Again Brad. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

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I forgot to add Mike thanks for the penny suggestion it worked great for advancing the timing alittle. I did go counterclockwise.

View attachment 283930View attachment 283931View attachment 283932View attachment 283933View attachment 283934

Nice looking saw.
 


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