Nik's Poulan Thread

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Right u are Mark. Did another pressure/vacuum test and both passed. Pressure tested the carb and it leaks like crazy. Stuck it in water and carb is leaking from the Venturi. May have to replace Welsh plugs but will year apart carb first to see if I screwed up the rebuild somewhere.

Bob, if you do so, it's a good idea to put a drop or two of nail polish around the seams.

I prefer a stylish shade of purple. :jester:

Good luck! :cheers:
 
Non Poulan problem

It's not a Poulan, but I hope you guys can help me anyway.
Just bought a Ryobi 10532 (Redmax 400 clone) off eBay. It was dirty and the seller said it used to run, but was now flooding out and he thought it needed a carb rebuild. I took the carb off cleaned it in an ultrasonic cleaner and put in a rebuild kit, The adjustment screws had slots ground in them with a dremel - a very ham-fisted job. I took both needles out when it went in the ultrasonic cleaner, then re-installed them til they bottomed and backed both out 1 turn.
After I put it back together, it wouldn't fire or run at all. Checked for spark - has it. Pulled muffler, Screen clean, no carbon blockage of exhaust port, but piston is pretty scored - looks like maybe straight gassed.
Tested compression - reads just under 100 psi after 5-6 pulls and leaks down to 90 pretty quickly and muffler/cylinder flood with gas when you try to start it - flooding like the guy selling it said in the ad. The seller claimed it had good compression, but that obviously wasn't accurate.

I have another used Ryobi 10532 that runs decently. It has 120 psi and holds pressure, also after 5-6 pulls .

So the question is: do you think the saw should try to start with 90-100 psi? I'm not sure why the pressure drops after pulling the saw over, but it does. Shouldn't the schraeder valve keep the compression reading up after you quit pulling the saw over? The other saw, that runs OK doesn't do that.

I welcome any advice. I've also put in a dispute to eBay saying the saw was not as represented.
 
Bob, if you do so, it's a good idea to put a drop or two of nail polish around the seams.

I prefer a stylish shade of purple. :jester:

Good luck! :cheers:

Well I removed the welch plug but may have screwed up the interior. May need a new carb but can't seem to locate a WT109. Wonder if another model will fit. I posted this in the Partner stickie as I believe its a clone of the Partner 5000s. Leave it to me to be heavy handed.
Bob
 
I Don't know why you prefer purple? Purple clashes badly with your old yellow Mac's. (Not to mention your eye shadow):msp_wink:

Geez Mark, I didn't know you noticed! :msp_razz:

Well I removed the welch plug but may have screwed up the interior. May need a new carb but can't seem to locate a WT109. Wonder if another model will fit. I posted this in the Partner stickie as I believe its a clone of the Partner 5000s. Leave it to me to be heavy handed.
Bob

I have the Walbro kit that includes (for lack of a better word) a 'chisel' for Welch plug removal. It works well on the larger ones, but the small ones can be difficult. Pioneerguy600 once posted where you can use a drill to penetrate about .025" through the plug before using a scribe as a lever to lift it out.

Good luck! :cheers:
 
Well I removed the welch plug but may have screwed up the interior. May need a new carb but can't seem to locate a WT109. Wonder if another model will fit. I posted this in the Partner stickie as I believe its a clone of the Partner 5000s. Leave it to me to be heavy handed.
Bob

Bob the 325 is actually a Partner 5500. I don't know if they used the same carb as a 5000 or not. I'll have to look tonight to find out. I might have a 5000 carb.
 
I have a Poulan wild thing with strato engine and similar (but more #120 after 20 pulls) compression. There is nothing I can do to get it to even pop, it ain't ever going to run with those numbers. I have pulled it hundreds of times, flooded it, dried it out, swaped plugs with my 2 other running wild things, zero, zipp natta gunna run or even pop.

Yes your valve should hold the pressure in the gage, take it out and clean it and inspect it.

That saw isn't going to run with 100 psi compression in my rather limited experience. You need to get your money back. You did not buy a running chainsaw.

Thanks Stephen. That's pretty much what I figured, just looking for another opinion. The funny thing about the compression tester is that it does hold pressure when I put it on the Ryobi with 120 psi, but won't hold pressure on the 90-100 psi saw. Only thing I can figure is all the gas in cylinder of the lower compression saw is keeping the schraeder valve from sealing???:confused:
 
Thanks Stephen. That's pretty much what I figured, just looking for another opinion. The funny thing about the compression tester is that it does hold pressure when I put it on the Ryobi with 120 psi, but won't hold pressure on the 90-100 psi saw. Only thing I can figure is all the gas in cylinder of the lower compression saw is keeping the schraeder valve from sealing???:confused:

how fast does the pressure fall? could you have a crack somewhere or a leaky seal.
 
how fast does the pressure fall? could you have a crack somewhere or a leaky seal.

I'd say it goes from 100 psi to 90 psi in about 10-15 seconds, then it stops falling. When I put the same gauge on the other Ryobi 10532 saw, that runs fine, it goes up to 120 in 5-6 pulls, then stops rising and it stays there. Like I said, all I can figure is the excess gas in the cylinder of the 90 psi saw might be keeping the schraeder valve from sealing, but that's only a not very educated guess - first time this gauge has let the pressure drop.
 
I'd say it goes from 100 psi to 90 psi in about 10-15 seconds, then it stops falling. When I put the same gauge on the other Ryobi 10532 saw, that runs fine, it goes up to 120 in 5-6 pulls, then stops rising and it stays there. Like I said, all I can figure is the excess gas in the cylinder of the 90 psi saw might be keeping the schraeder valve from sealing, but that's only a not very educated guess - first time this gauge has let the pressure drop.

Is the saw hot or cold when you're checking compression?
 
I have been on the look out for one. I would like to take mine to work with me. But to do so it would require a chain brake. Every one there believes that if it is not a stihl or husqvarna it is junk. They hear homelite poulan or mcculloch and they think of the plastic fantastic china saws. Well I want to take the poulan in and tell them to put their money where their mouth is.
 
I have been on the look out for one. I would like to take mine to work with me. But to do so it would require a chain brake. Every one there believes that if it is not a stihl or husqvarna it is junk. They hear homelite poulan or mcculloch and they think of the plastic fantastic china saws. Well I want to take the poulan in and tell them to put their money where their mouth is.



Or you could do a little work to a Poulan Pro 295 and slap them and their Huskys and Stihls around with a "Plastic Fantastic" saw!!!


Mike
 

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