Nik's Poulan Thread

[3000 FPS]

View attachment 307281

I've had this a day or two but just got around to cleaning it up. Needed new fuel lines, new air filter, new fuel filter and some tweaking on the carb. Previous owner had re-assembled parts incorrectly but didn't damage anything. 150 psi.

I paid almost $70 at a local pawn shop. :msp_w00t:

I need a weekend with cool weather to try it out. Soon. I'm itching to run this one after the 2800 did such a great job.

dd

With 150 psi that is not bad. I think you are going to like the way that saw cuts.

Does it have the two thin rings or the two thick rings?

 

[diggers_dad]

With 150 psi that is not bad. I think you are going to like the way that saw cuts.

Does it have the two thin rings or the two thick rings?

Two thin rings. If it does as well as I hope, I'm thinking about opening up the muffler a bit and removing the base gasket from the cylinder. Should I replace the rings while I'm in there?

OK, to be honest - I'm planning on doing that if it does well or not ... I'm addicted to working on these saws - they are straight forward and well-built, easy to work on.

Is two thin rings good, bad, or otherwise?

 

[Kostas]

Nice 3700.Thin rings is what everyone wants.150 psi is perfect,i don't think it'll gain anything in compression with new rings but it won't harm either.Removing the base gasket is more possible to give a little more compresion.Open the muffler is a must.

 

[rms61moparman]

Two thin rings. If it does as well as I hope, I'm thinking about opening up the muffler a bit and removing the base gasket from the cylinder. Should I replace the rings while I'm in there?
OK, to be honest - I'm planning on doing that if it does well or not ... I'm addicted to working on these saws - they are straight forward and well-built, easy to work on.

Is two thin rings good, bad, or otherwise?

With 150# compression, I wouldn't bother with replacing the rings.
It's doubtful that it will improve on what you have.
JMHO


Mike

 

[67L36Driver]

What are the Sears part numbers for the fuel lines and purge bulb on the small Craftsman/Poulan 2375(ish) saws?

I have three in the shop needing fuel system overhaul.

TIA

Carl.

 

[redunshee]

With 150# compression, I wouldn't bother with replacing the rings.
It's doubtful that it will improve on what you have.
JMHO


Mike

Agree.

 

[redunshee]

What are the Sears part numbers for the fuel lines and purge bulb on the small Craftsman/Poulan 2375(ish) saws?

I have three in the shop needing fuel system overhaul.

TIA

Carl.

Assuming 2375, purge bulb is 530047213 and small fuel line is 530069247.

 

[redunshee]

Poulan Pro 475 rebuild

Have my saw almost put back together( need to mount carb). I installed a BB 372 piston and squish is around .025 . Recoil is a bear to pull and there is no way I can drop start it. Only way is to have it on the ground with my foot in the pad. Even then it doesn't pull easily or smoothly. Is this normal for you guys who have this saw? Almost seems it should have a decomp. With plug out it pulls very easily. Plug in, it is the hardest pulling saw I've seen. Wonder if I should have installed a cylinder gasket. Hope this is normal as I'm concerned about starting it.
Bob

 

[Modifiedmark]

Have my saw almost put back together( need to mount carb). I installed a BB 372 piston and squish is around .025 . Recoil is a bear to pull and there is no way I can drop start it. Only way is to have it on the ground with my foot in the pad. Even then it doesn't pull easily or smoothly. Is this normal for you guys who have this saw? Almost seems it should have a decomp. With plug out it pulls very easily. Plug in, it is the hardest pulling saw I've seen. Wonder if I should have installed a cylinder gasket. Hope this is normal as I'm concerned about starting it.
Bob

Bob, those saws should have had a decomp from the factory. The recoil pulley is small in dia and is plastic to boot. I didn't see them lasting that long trying to pull over a high compression motor.

I seen my 475 had the decomp boss in the cyl already probably because it shares the same cyl casting with the 505 which dose have a decomp so I decided to install one on my saw myself.

Not really hard to do but it dose take some careful drilling and tapping. I was worried about chipping the plating on the cyl when drilling trough it so I shaped a piece of sheet metal to fit the contour of the cyl then pounded some rags into the cyl to hold the sheet metal in place while drilling through it.

The biggest problem for me was trying to get the hole in the cyl cover in the right place and do the trimming inside to get it to clear the decomp itself.

 

[redunshee]

Have to see if mine is similar. Not sure I'm brave enough to do what you did. Comp is 180 and saw hasn't run yet.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Have to see if mine is similar. Not sure I'm brave enough to do what you did. Comp is 180 and saw hasn't run yet.

If your hesitant about doing it at all, then don't. Its a easy screw up.

Mine was almost 200lbs if I remember right when I done these ones with the Stihl 064 pistons that's why I considered it a must have modification.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I drop start all of mine. You just have to mean it when you step up to the plate to start it. :msp_tongue:

Even the 066 piston one in the 505 saw. Just pull like you mean it. I learned that when I owned a 066 with tighten squish and no de-comp cylinder. :msp_thumbup:

Oh I add gaskets always now. Almost lost a 505 top to a sealer gasket leak that I caught ( I didnt do it someone that had the saw before me did the sealer). If I have a cylinder base turned down I make sure it is far enough to use with base gasket. Then raise everything back up that is needed.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

My other point is about stop watches. I don't believe in them when your trying to get down that close in .10 of a second or less.

There only as good as the person running them and I know of know one that good and consistent with them.

When people start posting times like that I just shrug them off.

Not that it matters but, when I say stronger I go by feel of saw in cut. Stop watch only backs up what I felt if faster in cut.

You do realize my times show seconds. tenths, hundredths right. There was over a second difference which is 10 tenths to a second and they were further apart then that. :hmm3grin2orange:

I timed at real lumberjack events so I consider myself pretty dang good on stopwatches. Guess what even at the track meets guess what we use stop watches, timing the 40yd dash at football stop watches. The guy that times for me when I'm not timing might be off a tenth or even 2, but I know for fact he isnt off by seconds. :hmm3grin2orange:

I shurg a lot of peoples posted testing methods all the time. They dont take into account, chain, gears, tune, same wood, operators etc etc. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[diggers_dad]

Nice 3700.Thin rings is what everyone wants.150 psi is perfect,i don't think it'll gain anything in compression with new rings but it won't harm either.Removing the base gasket is more possible to give a little more compresion.Open the muffler is a must.

With 150# compression, I wouldn't bother with replacing the rings.
It's doubtful that it will improve on what you have.
JMHO


Mike

Agree.

Thanks for all the input!

I'm going to submit this to y'all who have "been there, done that" on similar Poulans -> What's the best method for a muffler mod on this saw? My idea at this point is a simple piece of 1/2" electrical conduit or similar material brazed into place allowing for better flow and also matching the muffler to the port. Direct the exhaust slightly down or level and to the right (bar) side.

Judging by the paint on the saw and the appearance of the piston and rings through the exhaust, this saw doesn't have much use on it. The spur sprocket was still in good shape but I replaced it with a rim and drum set up anyway. It's running 3/8" 7 pin, which I thought was a safe bet for the size. Opinions?

Also, will advancing the timing a couple of degrees be advantageous on this saw or best to just let it be as is? Seems strong in the brief cutting I did earlier (raining here).

 

[diggers_dad]

Bob, those saws should have had a decomp from the factory. The recoil pulley is small in dia and is plastic to boot. I didn't see them lasting that long trying to pull over a high compression motor.

I seen my 475 had the decomp boss in the cyl already probably because it shares the same cyl casting with the 505 which dose have a decomp so I decided to install one on my saw myself.

Not really hard to do but it dose take some careful drilling and tapping. I was worried about chipping the plating on the cyl when drilling trough it so I shaped a piece of sheet metal to fit the contour of the cyl then pounded some rags into the cyl to hold the sheet metal in place while drilling through it.

The biggest problem for me was trying to get the hole in the cyl cover in the right place and do the trimming inside to get it to clear the decomp itself.

I sent you a rep shot for that one. :msp_thumbup: I had wondered about the plating when drilling and tapping a decomp.

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks for all the input!

I'm going to submit this to y'all who have "been there, done that" on similar Poulans -> What's the best method for a muffler mod on this saw? My idea at this point is a simple piece of 1/2" electrical conduit or similar material brazed into place allowing for better flow and also matching the muffler to the port. Direct the exhaust slightly down or level and to the right (bar) side.

Judging by the paint on the saw and the appearance of the piston and rings through the exhaust, this saw doesn't have much use on it. The spur sprocket was still in good shape but I replaced it with a rim and drum set up anyway. It's running 3/8" 7 pin, which I thought was a safe bet for the size. Opinions?

Also, will advancing the timing a couple of degrees be advantageous on this saw or best to just let it be as is? Seems strong in the brief cutting I did earlier (raining here).

Sounds like a good plan to me. I would lose the base gasket while your at it even if you do not replace the rings. I run a 20" bar on mine with some similar mods and have had it buried in some cottonwood. This saw pulls it just fine.

 

[3000 FPS]

Have to see if mine is similar. Not sure I'm brave enough to do what you did. Comp is 180 and saw hasn't run yet.

The 475 I have is at 180psi with no decomp. Like JJ said I have to pull it with determination, although I do not drop start it, I use the foot in the handle method.

 

[LegDeLimber]

Nice job the way modifiedMark did that decomp retrofit.
In addition to using a bcaking plate for the drillign breakthorugh (a time honoerd prtice),
I'm thinking of using small drill bit frist then a snall abbrasve ypr of bit
to finish opennig the hole.

 

[redunshee]

If your hesitant about doing it at all, then don't. Its a easy screw up.

Mine was almost 200lbs if I remember right when I done these ones with the Stihl 064 pistons that's why I considered it a must have modification.

Checked and I don't have a decomp boss like yours. Guess that option is out.

 

[redunshee]

The 475 I have is at 180psi with no decomp. Like JJ said I have to pull it with determination, although I do not drop start it, I use the foot in the handle method.

Ok. Good to hear. Thought I had somehow screwed up the p&c installation. Can't believe they sold this saw w/o a decomp.
Bob