Nik's Poulan Thread

[Bow]

I'm considering changing my name on this forum to "Fresh Meat"....I'm starting to feel uneasy....lol

 

[3000 FPS]

Yup, I hate to even fire it up....one day it could be worth quite a bit...or the same...lol

Yep that is one beautiful saw. Never seen one brand new like that before.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Bow I'm near Galion and can see rt 30 across the fields. There is a nice PP285 right where you live for $90. I posted it on my site earlier. So the word is already out.

 

[fossil]

The fuel line you want is tygon 3/16" OD X 3/32" ID or 3/16"OD X 1/8" ID. Modified Mark did a write up on it some time ago. I think you want 12".

( 9" for the fuel line and 3" for the tank vent.)

 

[fossil]

Here's a link to that tutorial. The pictures are gone but the write up is well done and should get you through it.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-4000-fuel-line-replacement-revisited.156629/

 

[Bow]

Fossil,
Thanks for the info.....3/16" is what I got for the OD as well....the ID is a little strange....I measured the most narrow part of the fuel filter metal flange and it was 3/16 OD ....
I will check out the other thread...

PS....Vent line....what vent line.....I didn't see one on the drawings or when I looked at the saw.

Thanks again...

 

[redunshee]

The vent line fits in the larger hole in the fuel tank. If you remove the recoil assembly you will see it. The hole is larger because the duckbill valve has a fitting that fits in the hole. Line itself is short, probably less than two inches.

 

[Bow]

Thanks, will take a look when I get the line.

 

[dboyd351]

Some Pics....if you want to see other views, while it's still NOS, let me know....
PS....Pogo....I see the black one you must have snagged....very nice.....

Bow

View attachment 320808 View attachment 320809 View attachment 320810 View attachment 320811 View attachment 320812

Gettin that for new, never used 3700 for $75!!! You REALLY, REALLY SUCK!

A little heads up on the oiler system. Don't know if it would have gone bad when the saw has never been run, but on many of those saws the diaphragm that makes the automatic oiler work will have stiffened to the point it won't oil automatically (but it will work using the manual oiler). That diaphragm is no longer made, but thanks to Tim (Fossil), we found some diaphragm material that does work, so you can cut out and make your own. If the saw doesn't oil without your pushing the manual oiler lever, let us know and we'll fix you up.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Fossil,
Thanks for the info.....3/16" is what I got for the OD as well....the ID is a little strange....I measured the most narrow part of the fuel filter metal flange and it was 3/16 OD ....
I will check out the other thread...

PS....Vent line....what vent line.....I didn't see one on the drawings or when I looked at the saw.

Thanks again...

Bow, what Gregg says I say as well. I hate to see that saw gassed up and started. They don't make em new anymore. I have one just like it that looks very good. It has also been ported, rebuilt up and down with new everything, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets etc. Its also been muffler modded and runs really strong. It also has a brand new Oregon Power match bar on it along with a new chain.

I have not actually ran it enough to break it in yet. I would trade you that saw and pay shipping both ways just to see that saw put on display and not ever started. I might have other deals as well, so let me know if you have any interest. Another option is to just list it on ebay and see what she brings! It might net you enough to buy a new saw, but then again, who knows.

But like was said its your saw to do with as you please and so I will tell you that the fuel line you need is 1/8" ID and 3/16" OD.

The 3/32" ID will be too thick a wall for you to get the line pulled up in the tank with the vent line barb on it that way. That said depending on the storage conditions of that saw over the years, it could still end up with some bad or marginal rubber parts on it such as carb diaphragms, crank seals, oiler pickup line and oiler diaphragms and filters.
They maybe fine but should at least be checked out.

You will also find yourself investing in a new chain as the Power Sharp chain is not very good for long. They still have to be hand sharpened after a few on the saw sharpenings.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Here's a link to that tutorial. The pictures are gone but the write up is well done and should get you through it.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-4000-fuel-line-replacement-revisited.156629/

Interesting, I open that and it still gives me the option to edit each post.

I still have all those photos, so someday I could fix that all back up. It looks to be a PITA that I don't have time for right now though.

 

[Bow]

Thanks for the tip on the oiler system....I will see what happens when I finally fire it up.
You guys are great as far as the help, especially for a noob like me who gets the "really sucks" badge.

 

[Bow]

Bow, what Gregg says I say as well. I hate to see that saw gassed up and started. They don't make em new anymore. I have one just like it that looks very good. It has also been ported, rebuilt up and down with new everything, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets etc. Its also been muffler modded and runs really strong. It also has a brand new Oregon Power match bar on it along with a new chain.

I have not actually ran it enough to break it in yet. I would trade you that saw and pay shipping both ways just to see that saw put on display and not ever started. I might have other deals as well, so let me know if you have any interest. Another option is to just list it on ebay and see what she brings! It might net you enough to buy a new saw, but then again, who knows.

Thanks for the info. I am going to give your offer and maybe others, if there are any, or even the ebay thing, some consideration. I am not a collector, nor am I in anyway a power user of chainsaws. I bought it for cutting a few logs....lol...

I had no idea saws were collected, and I will consider getting it to someone else, knowing they would really appreciate it's age and quality. I might even start a separate thread to see what interest I have.

 

[joe25DA]

I too agree with mark and gregg. There are a Ton of 3.7s out there to be run. Most are in better than average shape too. I have a theory on these craftsman saws. Most I find have less than 10 tanks thru them. Most buyers were homeowners or wood burners who bought these for mid to occasional use. So they usually survive well as long as they werent straight gassed or scrapped. I have a 3.7 thin ring that I know for a fact was used 5 times then the owner parked it and paid for his cord wood. I got the saw from him. Like Mark I muscled it up a bit with a 4000 intake and custom modified mark muffler. And it too rips. Ive run a 28" b/c on that saw bar deep in.maple and it pulled no.problem. Yours is NOS. I would park it on my display shelf with my nos 1800 and pp305.
If you want a 3.7 to run theres a nice one on cl close by...

 

[Bow]

Another question, while I remember it....
Pogo was kind enough to tell me about how Sears 16:1 mix ratio was outdated because of the quality of todays oil and that a ~ 40:1 mix is a good safe way to go. I noticed you mentioned "break in" period, and I was wondering if you use a different ratio during break in, and any other suggestions ie, brand oil to use. I am also wondering about the gasoline available this time of year. It has a lot of ethanol and I know that is not good for something this old. Any suggestions on gas are appreciated. And not to worry....I am weeks away from starting this thing up....if ever.

Crap...was just thinking....why am I so lazy to not use the "Search button"...my apologies and you can disregard the question. I'm sure it has been asked many many times.

Opps...to late...thanks ModifiedMark

 

[Modifiedmark]

Another question, while I remember it....
Pogo was kind enough to tell me about how Sears 16:1 mix ratio was outdated because of the quality of todays oil and that a ~ 40:1 mix is a good safe way to go. I noticed you mentioned "break in" period, and I was wondering if you use a different ratio during break in, and any other suggestions ie, brand oil to use. I am also wondering about the gasoline available this time of year. It has a lot of ethanol and I know that is not good for something this old. Any suggestions on gas are appreciated. And not to worry....I am weeks away from starting this thing up....if ever.

It just takes a bit for the rings to seat to the cyl bore. Sometimes more or less then others, but they usually seat in within a few tanks of run time.

No need for any special break in oil or such. The newer carb diaphragms are made of a more ethanol resistant material so I'm told and the newer style fuel line is as well.d

All of my old Poulans get run on 50-1 ratio, no need for the old 16-1 that was specked for them in the old days.

Like was said, the 3.7 Craftsman saws were sold by the truckload after truckload, so there are still lots and lots of them around which dilutes there worth today, but unfired is desirable still to a collector.

 

[mactodd]

Well, I'll nudge you in the direction of taking Mark up on his offer. I'll go a little farther though, and suggest you trade for a newer version that will better suit your needs. The 3400-4000 series like your 3.7 is a great saw, but is rather heavy and doesn't have a great chain oiling system. Something close to a Poulan Pro (PP) 330, or 335 is lighter, has better anti-vibe, and an adjustable oiler. I'm sure Mark can set you up with a very nice saw, whatever you and him would come up with, and I'd guarantee the one you get in trade would be as close to perfect as could be. He's a straight shooter, and a fair dealer. You can't go wrong IF that's what you decide to do. If you are just gonna cut up a few logs a year, then by all means take Mark up on the offer for the other 3.7, but he also has examples of the others he'd entertain as swap material , I am sure. He by far has the most diverse Poulan collection, as well as many other brands, and they are all very nice examples that run as well as they look. I don't mean to offend any of the other collectors here, but I think they will all agree he is the Poulan Guru.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well, I'll nudge you in the direction of taking Mark up on his offer. I'll go a little farther though, and suggest you trade for a newer version that will better suit your needs. The 3400-4000 series like your 3.7 is a great saw, but is rather heavy and doesn't have a great chain oiling system. Something close to a Poulan Pro (PP) 330, or 335 is lighter, has better anti-vibe, and an adjustable oiler. I'm sure Mark can set you up with a very nice saw, whatever you and him would come up with, and I'd guarantee the one you get in trade would be as close to perfect as could be. He's a straight shooter, and a fair dealer. You can't go wrong IF that's what you decide to do. If you are just gonna cut up a few logs a year, then by all means take Mark up on the offer for the other 3.7, but he also has examples of the others he'd entertain as swap material , I am sure. He by far has the most diverse Poulan collection, as well as many other brands, and they are all very nice examples that run as well as they look. I don't mean to offend any of the other collectors here, but I think they will all agree he is the Poulan Guru.

I agree, with the newer versions being better suited for certain things.

I'm not all in on this saw, I just hate to see one fired up when it don't need to be. I just wanted to point out to the OP of this that even though this saw is new, it still may need more work on it then he originally thought, just from age things go bad, that saw may be over 30 years old!!!

Money aside, what it is worth don't matter if he plans on using the saw. The one I got is a better saw to use as it has been all gone through and all the rubber updated and is as good as new. Yeah it has some paint scratches etc here and there but the NOS one will have them as well soon enough when it gets put to work.

 

[mactodd]

Well, like you said yourself, it ain't a rare saw, even as NOS, as they do turn up here and there. Wasn't trying to put words in your mouth either, just stating as a collector's piece, it belongs in your collection, IMHO. And you are right, fuel lines and a chain, and disabling the Powr-Sharp kinda adds cost, and even then might not suit him. But at that point, it's too late.

 

[Saw Dr.]

Hey Bow, If you need to cut firewood while you work out a trade with Mark, I have a VERY nice Stihl 029 Super I can send you to cut your wood. I can ship it tomorrow of need be, just tell me what length bar you want. You can't un-start the red saw once you pop it's cherry, and I figure if there is another one there to use, the temptation might be lower? I have no interest in that saw for myself, but Mark is my friend and I'd like to see it end up in his collection. Just an offer. PM me an address if interested.