Nik's Poulan Thread

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I'm starting to think that Tillotson should have been the only one to ever been allowed to make a chainsaw carb.

I'm of the same mind. I prefer the Tillotson carburetors over the Walbros and Zamas on all the saw models that I've worked on where offerings from each of those manufactures were used. That reminds me, I need to put a couple RK-14HU kits on the order too...
 
I did just that, when I was going over this PP375. I put a Walbro on it temporarily. Linkages and everything is the same. Worked fine. Only thing I can figure is Poulan got a good deal on a batch of the Zama carbs back there in the late 80's early 90's. o_O

Poulan, Homelite, and McCulloch all did the same thing. XL-12/SXL saws were originally equipped with Tillotson HS carbs, then Walbro SDC's (often marked as "Homelite SDC"), and finally Zamas. Same sort of thing with several different Mac models, although Mac used Walbro carbs far more early on (and also had Walbro build some specific models for them). XXV series Poulans started with Tillotson HU's, then Walbro WA/WT carbs, and then Zamas. IIRC the Micros started with Walbro WA/WT's, and then ended with Zamas.
 
I confess. Shipping was more than I wished($55.00) but for $15.00 thought I'd take a chance. Looks like the left half of the rear handle has a crack( somewhat common). I agree its a gamble but maybe I lucked out. Time will tell. Thought same thing about his oiler comment. I like to use it every couple seconds.

Bob

Bob I think you did fine. Even if the P/C aren't good you still ended up with many good parts, including the 4000 specific AF cover, starter assembly, and flywheel..............and if the P/C turn out to be fine then you made out like a bandit.
 
Bob I think you did fine. Even if the P/C aren't good you still ended up with many good parts, including the 4000 specific AF cover, starter assembly, and flywheel..............and if the P/C turn out to be fine then you made out like a bandit.

That was my thinking. Seller said comp seemed okay, for whatever that's worth. Time will tell.
 
Happy New Year all. Nice hand guns there also. For revolvers I always liked the term wheel gun.

I got a little freeby the other day with a scored piston and cylinder. Looked like it was straight gassed. Both intake and exhaust side were bad. The saw came with a case so I took it. Found a used piston and cylinder on ebay 25.00 with 10.00 shipping. Put it in and with a little filing on the chain it cuts pretty good. Never had one of these before and just found my loaner saw.

View attachment 325207

Sorry, I'm a day or two behind on the posts. Keep an eye on the black plastic lever that activates the strato on that WT. I've fooled with about half a dozen of them and I think every one I've seen had cracks in that little lever. The one on my personal WT broke completely, so I fabbed my own out of a 1/4" thick sheet of high density polyethelyne - works like a charm.

Mine cuts pretty well for what it is!
 
I've got a question. I got a grey Craftsman/Poulan 3800 off eBay last week. Had 140 psi, good spark and not much wear on the sprocket and chain. Put in new fuel lines/filter and vent line, cleaned and rebuilt the carb. I did have one funny thing happen when putting the carb back on - the gasket between the carb and cylinder didn't have a hole to match up with the carb impulse hole. The saw would fire, but not stay running when I got it, so I figured this might be why. I used a gasket punch and made a hole in the gasket for the impulse hole in the carb.
Got the saw running well. Was cutting with it the other day and after cutting up much of a good size maple I decided to take a break. I hadn't refueled yet so I topped off the mix and the bar oil which were pretty low. When I went to start it, not even a pop.
Pulled the plug and it was wet. Checked for fire and got spark. Pulled it over a few times to clear it out and re-installed the plug, still no pop. Tried a new plug, checked for fire - got spark again, but no pop with the new plug installed.
Switched to another saw and finished up the day. Tried to start the 3800 again after it had cooled for a half hour or so - still nothing.

Any ideas on why a saw that had just run well for maybe 45 minutes would suddenly not even give a pop, despite having fuel, spark and even a new plug?

I figured it might be a coil going bad, but it is still getting good enough spark to see it in bright sunshine.
 
I agree with Tim I have had this happen before and it turned out to be the needle and seat. If the plug is wet it will never start. Even if it looks clean, I would still clean it. I just had to do the one on my PP395 and the carb looked spic and span on the inside. All I did was clean the carb and the saw ran good afterwards.
 
The reason for replacing the firing pin in the CZ52 is that the original is made of iron and prone to breakage. The replacements are steel. The one piece of advice I will offer on them is to never, ever, ever trust the decocker. Mine will put a hefty dimple in the primer, others have not been so lucky, and got a very loud boom when they expected a click.
 
Hey guys, I have an extra gear puller, part # 530031115, for the 3000 et al series of saws. I'd like to offer it to someone esp. if that person would entertain the possibility of trying to copy it for any other member who might need one in the future. They aren't expensive but are getting harder to find. Let me know.
Bob
 

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