That's just another of the reasons I despise a DA trigger in a semi auto.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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That's just another of the reasons I despise a DA trigger in a semi auto.
id be in for that, if there was no other takers... keep in mind where I am...
machinisttx
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The CZ-52 is single action only. The decocker on some of the newer CZ's works in a completely different way and it is virtually impossible for one to do that.
machinisttx
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I can copy it, or at least make a decent drawing of it before passing it along to someone else that needs it. If I remember correctly, we're not too far apart here in TX.
80sDweeb
ArboristSite Member
That reason is non-existant in a large majority of quality DA/SA pistols. With most guns made in the last 30-40 years (at least), there is a firing pin block that requires the trigger be pulled to the rear before allowing the firing pin to move forward, so the decocker is perfectly safe.
To be honest, I'm not comfortable with carrying cocked and locked full-time. I can see it when "out and about", for example, but not while lounging on the couch, napping, roughhousing with the kids, etc. I get comfort from that long first DA trigger pull.
To steer the conversation back to Poulan, I see someone selling a Predator (I think that's a PP335?) and a Super 380 (they have similar starters, but the top covers are different.) Which of these is the preferred saw? Or are both good?
Scott in Penfield NY
I have both the old 335 yellow and the predator 335 red saw. The old 335 used two thin rings on the piston and the predator 335 uses on single thick ring. Other wise they are pretty similar to each other. They are both pretty close in power and I do not know if you could tell that much of a difference using them.
The super 380 is a good saw and if I could find I would take it over the 335. I believe the super 380 is similar to a 3750.
The super 380 is a good saw and if I could find I would take it over the 335. I believe the super 380 is similar to a 3750.
redunshee
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If you can make a copy of it for your use, I could then give it to someone who needs one. Great idea. We'll have to make some arrangements or I can mail it.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds good to me. I'll be making a trip down your way soon. My wife works down in that area too.
The super pro 380, pp 365, 335,330, 285 etc...are all chrome bore. I have one 335 (dated 87) that uses 2 thin rings, the other 335 (dated 89) used the thick ring. Both are strong saws that I enjoy running.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ok. Let me know when
3800 cylinder repair.
I picked up a 3800 last Fall and the PO had broken one of the carb adapter screws off in the cylinder and messed up the intake port on the cylinder trying to remove it.
I don't have access to a machine shop and someone who can weld aluminum.
Here's what I did in case anyone else comes across a similar issue.
To anyone new to the forum that reads this. DON'T try this with magnesium!
I got a Benzomatic MAP gas torch and some of their aluminum rods.
Here's the before pic. I did file out the broken area to get down to good metal and remove the oxide.
The soldered up port flange. The screw is in there to give continuity with the existing threads and keep the hole open.
I filed the solder down even with the original. There are a few inclusions and it isn't too pretty but it's flat and it saved the cylinder. The aluminum rods work at around 700 to 750F. It's about the same hardness as the original material.
A regular propane torch didn't work for me because the aluminum cylinder is too much of a heat sink and I couldn't get enough heat to it.
I picked up a 3800 last Fall and the PO had broken one of the carb adapter screws off in the cylinder and messed up the intake port on the cylinder trying to remove it.
I don't have access to a machine shop and someone who can weld aluminum.
Here's what I did in case anyone else comes across a similar issue.
To anyone new to the forum that reads this. DON'T try this with magnesium!
I got a Benzomatic MAP gas torch and some of their aluminum rods.
Here's the before pic. I did file out the broken area to get down to good metal and remove the oxide.
The soldered up port flange. The screw is in there to give continuity with the existing threads and keep the hole open.
I filed the solder down even with the original. There are a few inclusions and it isn't too pretty but it's flat and it saved the cylinder. The aluminum rods work at around 700 to 750F. It's about the same hardness as the original material.
A regular propane torch didn't work for me because the aluminum cylinder is too much of a heat sink and I couldn't get enough heat to it.
That looks pretty good, Tim. Especially considering what it started out as!!!
Hope it ends up being a screamer.
Hope it ends up being a screamer.
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have had the 335 with double thin rings and single thick ring also. I have always thought imo that the dual rings were just a little stronger.
hope it works, never heard of alum solder, +1 on the mag... I offered up mag welding in the xmas thread, no takers... if that fails, id do it w/tig. u ship to me, i'll weld, ship back.3800 cylinder repair.
I picked up a 3800 last Fall and the PO had broken one of the carb adapter screws off in the cylinder and messed up the intake port on the cylinder trying to remove it.
I don't have access to a machine shop and someone who can weld aluminum.
Here's what I did in case anyone else comes across a similar issue.
To anyone new to the forum that reads this. DON'T try this with magnesium!
I got a Benzomatic MAP gas torch and some of their aluminum rods.
Here's the before pic. I did file out the broken area to get down to good metal and remove the oxide.
The soldered up port flange. The screw is in there to give continuity with the existing threads and keep the hole open.
I filed the solder down even with the original. There are a few inclusions and it isn't too pretty but it's flat and it saved the cylinder. The aluminum rods work at around 700 to 750F. It's about the same hardness as the original material.
A regular propane torch didn't work for me because the aluminum cylinder is too much of a heat sink and I couldn't get enough heat to it.
my last mag weld job, my micro, cracks where felt marks are, went in to bar stud... couldn't get at inside of oil tank, so left raw weld outside, filled stud hole, welded bar clamp 
3800 cylinder repair.
I picked up a 3800 last Fall and the PO had broken one of the carb adapter screws off in the cylinder and messed up the intake port on the cylinder trying to remove it.
I don't have access to a machine shop and someone who can weld aluminum.
Here's what I did in case anyone else comes across a similar issue.
To anyone new to the forum that reads this. DON'T try this with magnesium!
I got a Benzomatic MAP gas torch and some of their aluminum rods.
Here's the before pic. I did file out the broken area to get down to good metal and remove the oxide.
The soldered up port flange. The screw is in there to give continuity with the existing threads and keep the hole open.
I filed the solder down even with the original. There are a few inclusions and it isn't too pretty but it's flat and it saved the cylinder. The aluminum rods work at around 700 to 750F. It's about the same hardness as the original material.
A regular propane torch didn't work for me because the aluminum cylinder is too much of a heat sink and I couldn't get enough heat to it.
Great Job Tim. I really like what you have done and explained here because anybody can now do a repair like that. Did the screw stick at all to the aluminum or did it come right out with ease? I know on magnesium it would not stick at all.
Thanks for the offer. That is very kind of you.
Hopefully all will be good. It's more like a brazing process than solder. It seems to bond pretty well and it's not a stressed structural part so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I hope to get it back together this weekend if I can stay focused on one saw.
I see the weld on the crankcase there and the bar next to it but what did you mean by filled stud hole. and welded bar clamp.
the cracks went back into both sides of bar stud, so had welded in there, too, as well as filling, redrilling & tapping bar stud hole. am bad for not takin before & after pics, don't think of it til way after, even the one I did take was after the test drive, hence the mess on the saw... guess I coulda wiped it off...
wtf?? double post? edit...
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