Nik's Poulan Thread

[ChipsFlyin]

Paul - where are you at on the carb turn outs? Picked up 46cc'er a while back that was doing the same thing. They are pretty close to the same saw. The first thing I did was off with those EPA limiters with a razor knife so I could adjust correctly. Those crazy things need to be turned waaay out. If I can remember right the darn thing took something like 2 1/4 turns on the high and 2 1/8 on the low for it to run right. I would go 2 out on both then keep going out a 16th until it runs right. It called for 40:1 but since I had it opened up a bit and screaming ran 32:1.

Also, Found a guy on ebay with carb kits real cheap- poulan 3400 kit with only $7.29 with free shipping (not genuine walbro but did the job just fine ) Plus, he has all kinds of parts and stuff for many other saws. Seller's name is "lawnsnap" with mower parts warehouse store.

Mark

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

Paul - where are you at on the carb turn outs? Picked up 46cc'er a while back that was doing the same thing. They are pretty close to the same saw. The first thing I did was off with those EPA limiters with a razor knife so I could adjust correctly. Those crazy things need to be turned waaay out. If I can remember right the darn thing took something like 2 1/4 turns on the high and 2 1/8 on the low for it to run right. I would go 2 out on both then keep going out a 16th until it runs right. It called for 40:1 but since I had it opened up a bit and screaming ran 32:1.

Also, Found a guy on ebay with carb kits real cheap- poulan 3400 kit with only $7.29 with free shipping (not genuine walbro but did the job just fine ) Plus, he has all kinds of parts and stuff for many other saws. Seller's name is "lawnsnap" with mower parts warehouse store.

Mark

Hi Mark, so far on mine, I pulled off the carb plate where the fine wire mesh debris screen is and sure enough, full of gunk. I cleaned that out well and the carb otherwise looked pretty good so didn't do more there just yet. I got to the tank fuel line and found it was split and letting in debris past the filter in the tank. So that all has to be replaced. Getting some new lines and a 6Y plug for it instead of 7Y and then I'll try to fire it up again, maybe work on that this weekend if I can. I'll let you know after all that where I end up on the settings if it all works. I might still need a full carb job, but will do the above things first and see what I get. I'll checkout the link you gave and thanks!

On another topic, if anyone has a tutorial on how to properly advance the timing a few degrees messing with the flywheel pin, please post it up! I'd like to learn how to do that but not clear on the procedure. Thx! - Paul

 

[jerrycmorrow]

you might reconsider using a hotter plug until you've run it with a properly functioning carb, lines, filters, etc.
a hotter plug is just that, hotter. may not be beneficial to your saw. just sayin

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

you might reconsider using a hotter plug until you've run it with a properly functioning carb, lines, filters, etc.
a hotter plug is just that, hotter. may not be beneficial to your saw. just sayin

Yes probably a good point. I want to explore though if the 6Y will let me start the thing after it is hot, as the 7Y never will start hot after I get it going. Hot means the saw runs for about 20 minutes or so for me. After that, doesn't want to start again for about an hour or two. Very consistent with this. So I want to fix that. I don't know if this phenomena is related to the carb/lines or not, but I'm determined to try to find out! - Paul

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Fix everything else that needs fixed first and then try another coil.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Yes probably a good point. I want to explore though if the 6Y will let me start the thing after it is hot, as the 7Y never will start hot after I get it going. Hot means the saw runs for about 20 minutes or so for me. After that, doesn't want to start again for about an hour or two. Very consistent with this. So I want to fix that. I don't know if this phenomena is related to the carb/lines or not, but I'm determined to try to find out! - Paul

Like someone said previously - could be a fried top end. Those EPA saws are adjusted lean from the factory. On top of that, the manual says that they are only rated EPA compliant for 50 hours. If it is partially fried a richer mixture may help some - so what if it smokes a little... Hears a link to the manual.

http://www.shopyourway.com/manuals/22639

Darn! 3 weeks ago I sold a older but basically new 48cc Poulan Farm Hand with a 20inch bar. I would have given it to you for what I had in it plus shipping. Guy had it sitting in his shed with all fluids drained and only used 2 or 3 times- 50 bucks. I muff modded, tuned, sharpened and resold for extra funds for other saws. That thing would have worked perfect for your mill.

Mark

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

Thanks Mark and Poge. Yes, a coil is possible. But I've read on the 'net literally dozens of people who have these or very similar Poulan saws and complain of the same thing, won't start again when hot for several hours, some brand new out of the box. So if it is a bad coil, then many of these must be bad out of the box new. I also read here on the forums another who said this exact problem was solved by going to the 6Y plug. So someone at least had experience resolving it that way. so worth exploring. I can always get another coil if needed though. Some also did just that and reported it had the exact same restart hot issues after they did that...

While previous owner usage is always a question, the saw had little use before I got it. The "craftsman" sticker on the bar was still on the saw! Chain may have had one or two sharpenings at the most from new. I did look at the piston/block and didn't see any wear issues there or scoring. Question: If it was run lean at some time, how would it behave after starting and running now? It runs good WOT most of the time, just wouldn't idle, and the restart hot thing. Would it not run good ever if run lean and caused damage? And wouldn't I see that damage inside the combustion chamber as heavy wear from hot expanded parts? I'll get the carb/fuel side worked out and see what I get pretty soon...

Mark, on your saw, man I wish I could have got with you a few weeks back. That would have been a nice upgrade from this 42 cc version. I've got some McCullochs and a Stihl 011 AVT 40 cc ish I bought from my father that I also want to get working well. None of these will start right now but each ran at some time in the last 10 years. May all need carb kits/lines and maybe more than that. The biggest of these is the 80's Pro Mac 700, which is a big 72 cc saw, but slower speed than modern saws. I've read it was one of the better last big saws made by McCulloch. It has had heavy use, probably cut down and up a good 150 trees in the 80's mainly, some 40 or 50 inch diameter and 150 ft tall ones. When I was a teenager then, we burned wood *exclusively* for house heat for about 5 years straight as money was very tight then and my father didn't have a job for several years in the 80's terrible economy. I used some of those smaller Macs when I was 10 years old! My arm strength at 12 was stronger than the average 15 year old from moving wood every day! Not what I would recommend for kids, but we did what we had to do and got though that and I got a strong work ethic for life from the experience. I was mostly grown up by about 12 years old and never got in any lick of trouble later. Those Macs helped us survive several years.

I might eventually use the 700 for some light milling and my bigger tree cutting needs and will fix that up, no matter what it needs. I have about 5 30" + diameter black walnuts on my property that will eventually need some cutting on, at least one or two, and then some milling on. I also need to cut down some oak and cherry big trees for my sister. I'll never be a pro, but just a hobbyist with the saws, so don't need the best or newest pro saws or a large collection, just a couple that work well for my occasional use. Milling though raises the bar alot, so do want some that can mill occasionally so I can make most of my own wood for woodworking projects in future years. I probably would saw not more than 120 hours in total in any given year going forward.

I might well be interested in getting a bigger Poulan or other bigger more modern saw as these have merits I think very different than the Macs would have. I like how mine is easy to take apart and work on for one. Higher speed milling may also have merits over lower speed milling with say an older saw, but I don't know on that yet. Some do mill with the bigger Mac saws still. I could probably use a 5.2 Craftsman or 5500 ? Poulan size saw, 70 or 80 or 90 cc class in good shape if anyone had one to sell reasonable. I'm in NW Indiana. I'm not sure what is the best Poulan in that class but heard some good things about these models. Something comparable or better than the Pro Mac 700 72 cc class saw would be my main interest. Give me your advice guys on a good Poulan to look for in that class and pros/cons! Should be a fun discussion! - Paul

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If you haven't done so already, pull the muffler and inspect the piston through the exhaust port for scoring. Any vertical lines probably won't be a good thing. And without re-reading all the related posts, I don't recall whether anyone suggested pulling the plug and checking for spark (or quality of spark) under the "hot" no start condition. If it's weak or non-existent, double check all wiring for insulation integrity (which may break down under hot conditions). If all looks cool, replace the coil.

Then get that PM700 running!!! A whole new world awaits you there, my man.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Paul,
There is a guy up near South Bend that looks like he has all kinds of parts for saws. - on Craigs under "chainsaw"- found him when I tried looking for a bigger saw for you. Here's how I search for saws. You have to do the misspellings and correct spellings. I do the "chinsaw", "chansaw", "chainsaw" , " chain saw " , " chainsaws" and the brand name only with no model numbers. I found some of my best deals on misspelled saws because there were sitting on Craigs forever... Now, anyone in the Pittsburgh, PA area that reads this and uses the misspelling idea try not to beat me to all the good deals.

I just picked up 2 craftsman 3.3's "not running right", craftsman bar cover, newer bar and chain on one of them, 2 extra chains , used- today for a really really good price- 30 bucks for everything !!! The bar and chain on the one is worth the 30 alone. Sorry no pics yet. If I can get both to run decent I may sell one (whole) or just the power head not sure yet. It may be a while till I get into them though.
Mark

 

[hotshot]

Bit of a redneck machining challenge here, on an old magnesium saw.

I picked up a Poulan 361 that was in excellent shape, but the spark plug threads were stripped out. These old saws have both an angled spark plug & a small combustion chamber or pocket in the center, so the threads can't simply be recut & inserted with the tapered tap that comes in the Sav-a-thread (Helicoil/Emhart) or Fix-a-thred(Alcoa/Australia) spark plug insert kits.


I bought a Fix-a-thred kit and measured their ferrule inserts ODs, then determined the pilot hole to be about 0.620" for their "17mm-1.25" insert to get a "75%" thread purchase. Took a 5/8" drill bit and reduced it down a bit, then drilled the pilot hole in the press. Had to indicate on a loose fitting spark plug, so missed the original hole CL a tiny bit.

Then I bought & cut a single cheaper Sav-A-Thred tap at the 17mm start with a dremel cut off wheel, leaving a bit for starting the threads, which I did, but then ground it off again later to make it a bottoming tap for the final threads. A bottoming tap for the special 17mm-1.25 pitch is $25 alone, way more than the kit costs...


The insert length was fit to match the pilot depth, then it also had to be indexed & "unshrouded" in the final installed step, as the angled plug allows part of the insert to block the plug end from the cylinder bore. I marked center and did most of the insert work outside, then set the insert with red Loctite and their kit supplied setting punch that flares the teeth into the top threads.


Works fine now, and the saw doesn't know the difference! The silver tint is antiseize compound for the spark plug threads, and it makes it look like the insert is a half thread in...I'll post another pic if needed.

 

[s sidewall]

My new free find, just needs all the lines replaced. Just hope the crank case check valve is good.

 

[Acornhill]

245A my new project, picked this up of the Bay, cleaned up ok, was one of the dirtiest saws I have ever seen. Recoil area was packed full of mud dubber nest

 

[Acornhill]

Picture

 

[s sidewall]

I know what you mean, stripped down that 2000 yesterday and cleaned out a tree and a quart of oil. Looked like that gunk did protect the paint though.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

My $20 allowed in trade in. 38c

 

[s sidewall]

I like the Lil green one in the back ground better. But that's is still nice.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I like the Lil green one in the back ground better. But that's is still nice.

That one was built form 4 different parts saws for a guy wanting a small limbing saw a few years back. 1800 30cc. He traded it back in a few years later.

 

[s sidewall]

Still a keeper.

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

Paul,
There is a guy up near South Bend that looks like he has all kinds of parts for saws. - on Craigs under "chainsaw"- found him when I tried looking for a bigger saw for you. Here's how I search for saws. You have to do the misspellings and correct spellings. I do the "chinsaw", "chansaw", "chainsaw" , " chain saw " , " chainsaws" and the brand name only with no model numbers. I found some of my best deals on misspelled saws because there were sitting on Craigs forever... Now, anyone in the Pittsburgh, PA area that reads this and uses the misspelling idea try not to beat me to all the good deals.

I just picked up 2 craftsman 3.3's "not running right", craftsman bar cover, newer bar and chain on one of them, 2 extra chains , used- today for a really really good price- 30 bucks for everything !!! The bar and chain on the one is worth the 30 alone. Sorry no pics yet. If I can get both to run decent I may sell one (whole) or just the power head not sure yet. It may be a while till I get into them though.
Mark

Thanks Mark for the advice. A 3.3 might be real good! Man, you got a great deal on those for sure!!

I've had little time but did put the colder 6Y plug into it, and it is a good thing! Starts better when hot with it for sure and runs stronger with it in at any time. Still have the hot issues though making it hard to start. But now could run it about 30 minutes with a couple restarts before finally needing an hour or two break. Need to do some more with it when I can - just wanted to try the plug as it is.

I did start working a bit on the Pro Mac 700 and got it to start and run, but not great yet. I posted a separate thread on that recently for specific advice there. Love the mean growl that thing has but loud loud loud. The ported muffler little Poulan has a "mini Pro Mac 700" kind of sound to it now but at much higher speed. Sounds mean for a Poulan homeowner saw for sure. - Paul

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

If you haven't done so already, pull the muffler and inspect the piston through the exhaust port for scoring. Any vertical lines probably won't be a good thing. And without re-reading all the related posts, I don't recall whether anyone suggested pulling the plug and checking for spark (or quality of spark) under the "hot" no start condition. If it's weak or non-existent, double check all wiring for insulation integrity (which may break down under hot conditions). If all looks cool, replace the coil.

Then get that PM700 running!!! A whole new world awaits you there, my man.

Yes, piston/bore was looked at and looks real good there. If I don't get it going good after the other things needed, I'll be doing a hot spark test like above - just haven't gotten to it yet. Could be a coil for sure. I have an inline spark tester somewhere from my lawn mower engines work I might be using on it. It really runs great at WOT when running with the 6Y plug in it and milling till it gets too hot. Just won't idle and won't restart hot well, but better with the 6Y. Starts within 10 pulls cold though no problem. Prob either carb rebuild or the coil. I don't think anything too major. - Paul