Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

Here is the clip I referred to last week or so. It is on the plastic bar clamp right

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Damn it, everything comes from China now! It probably doesn't matter much since they're so cheap but I'm not skilled enough to trouble shoot issues. I want to use a kit on this carb then never have to worry about it for another 20 years.

Over the years I have ordered a few carb kits , all from different manufactures and for different Walbro carbs. So far the only carb related problems after the rebuild were the problems that I created.... One of them was that I did not perfectly line up the fuel pump diaphragm with the fuel pump gasket restricting movement of one of the "wings" on the diaphragm. Another one was that I did not have the metering spring in strait( first carb kit that I ever did) . On both those carbs all I had to do is rebuild with the same new parts the "right" way and all was fine.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Losing track of how many I had now. Thinking #4 PP 505 83cc across my bench. $25 bucks and shipping.

Didnt take long to figure out what killed the topend.

 

[Ambull01]

I assume you have a copy of the service manual for the 3400, 3700, 4000, The 375 is the same thing. It will show how to install new fuel lines and their lengths, etc. Want to make sure you have a "duckbill valve" for the tank vent also. Even when the filter is attached, you might hear it rattle in an empty tank, since they are weighted.

Gregg,

Yep, I have the service manual. I can't figure out how to remove the crankshaft, clutch, and I just stripped the screw on the handle brace. Ahhh!

Yeah the fuel filter is definitely off the line. I can see it lying on the bottom of the tank.

I should probably just leave the crankshaft and clutch on the saw. I would like to replace the sprocket with a rim eventually though.

Well you probably just found out what was wrong with you 375, new fuel line and filter, 're adjust carb and report back.

You think that's the whole issue? Had no idea the fuel filter would totally mess the idle, low speed, and high speed up. Probably should still do the carb kit since it's so cheap.

Over the years I have ordered a few carb kits , all from different manufactures and for different Walbro carbs. So far the only carb related problems after the rebuild were the problems that I created.... One of them was that I did not perfectly line up the fuel pump diaphragm with the fuel pump gasket restricting movement of one of the "wings" on the diaphragm. Another one was that I did not have the metering spring in strait( first carb kit that I ever did) . On both those carbs all I had to do is rebuild with the same new parts the "right" way and all was fine.

Crap, that sounds kind of complicated. I'm kind of nervous I'll mess this thing up for good.

 

[OhioGregg]

Removing the clutch is very easy on these. They already have a large nut on them, so you don't need a special tool.
3/4" socket I believe. The "easiest" way to do it, is with an impact wrench. That way you dont have to try holding or blocking things to keep the crank from turning. Some will say not to, im sure... Just don't blast away with it. Just take it easy and hit it with a quick and short burst.

If you lay into it, the clutch will spin off, and you WILL have clutch springs and parts scattered from here to eternity! Ask me how I know...LOL Remember they are left hand threaded.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Yep, I have the service manual. I can't figure out how to remove the crankshaft, clutch, and I just stripped the screw on the handle brace. Ahhh!

Yeah the fuel filter is definitely off the line. I can see it lying on the bottom of the tank.

I should probably just leave the crankshaft and clutch on the saw. I would like to replace the sprocket with a rim eventually though.


You think that's the whole issue? Had no idea the fuel filter would totally mess the idle, low speed, and high speed up. Probably should still do the carb kit since it's so cheap.



Crap, that sounds kind of complicated. I'm kind of nervous I'll mess this thing up for good.

Don't over think it. Just take the carb apart , set the old parts down and line them up in the same order that you dismantled. Clean up the carb and put the new parts in reverse order.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Removing the clutch is very easy on these. They already have a large nut on them, so you don't need a special tool.
3/4" socket I believe. The "easiest" way to do it, is with an impact wrench. That way you dont have to try holding or blocking things to keep the crank from turning. Some will say not to, im sure... Just don't blast away with it. Just take it easy and hit it with a quick and short burst.

If you lay into it, the clutch will spin off, and you WILL have clutch springs and parts scattered from here to eternity! Ask me how I know...LOL Remember they are left hand threaded.

if you don't have an impact wrench don't worry.

• just tie a couple of knots in a short length of starter rope,
• burn the threads off the knotted end,
• turn the engine until it is just before TDC,
• insert knotted rope (I always insert as much as I can. the rope will stop the piston from moving without hurting it.)(sometimes I use a plastic piston stop but I NEVER use a metal one),
• take socket and twist the clutch off (see arrow on clutch)
• reinstall the same way except backwards

NOTE: be sure you don't put rope in when piston is not near TDC. you may accidentally get it in either the exhause or inlet port. you DON'T want the rope protruding into the inlet or exhaust port. it can, and has, happened. you may for sure have a real bag of worms if you do that.
there's nothing magic about this. its more about KYHOYA (keeping your head outa....). go forth and conquer

 

[Ambull01]

Removing the clutch is very easy on these. They already have a large nut on them, so you don't need a special tool.
3/4" socket I believe. The "easiest" way to do it, is with an impact wrench. That way you dont have to try holding or blocking things to keep the crank from turning. Some will say not to, im sure... Just don't blast away with it. Just take it easy and hit it with a quick and short burst.

If you lay into it, the clutch will spin off, and you WILL have clutch springs and parts scattered from here to eternity! Ask me how I know...LOL Remember they are left hand threaded.

Yep, it's 3/4". I tried using two wrenches but that didn't work. Did you keep the spur sprocket or are you running a rim? I think that's what they're called.

Don't over think it. Just take the carb apart , set the old parts down and line them up in the same order that you dismantled. Clean up the carb and put the new parts in reverse order.

I over think everything. Thought I would grow out of it but that doesn't seem to be happening.

if you don't have an impact wrench don't worry.

• just tie a couple of knots in a short length of starter rope,
• burn the threads off the knotted end,
• turn the engine until it is just before TDC,
• insert knotted rope (I always insert as much as I can. the rope will stop the piston from moving without hurting it.)(sometimes I use a plastic piston stop but I NEVER use a metal one),
• take socket and twist the clutch off (see arrow on clutch)
• reinstall the same way except backwards

NOTE: be sure you don't put rope in when piston is not near TDC. you may accidentally get it in either the exhause or inlet port. you DON'T want the rope protruding into the inlet or exhaust port. it can, and has, happened. you may for sure have a real bag of worms if you do that.
there's nothing magic about this. its more about KYHOYA (keeping your head outa....). go forth and conquer

No impact wrench, I do have a hammer drill that has different settings. I may try that. This is a really dumb question, sorry. What am I inserting the rope into?

 

[Ambull01]

Got another issue. I'm tapping on the flywheel opposite of magnets but it's not coming off. You guys have any tricks? Kind of sucks trying to remove things that's probably never been off since it was assembled 20 years ago.

Also, the two screws on the lower rear handle is not budging. I need to work on my grip/forearm strength. Update: Never mind, got the rear handle off. Forgot I have a impact driver. Used that with a screwdriver bit and it worked it loose.

 

[joe25DA]

Parts are in. Now I gotta find a good plastic paint that can tolerate some heat . Maybe just regular high temp paint

 

[fossil]

Cool. I finally have a chance to mess with the 375. Going to clean it up real good and take the carb off. I have to find that sea foam stuff.

If you don't need it, don't bother with the sea foam. I've had trouble with Tillotson HS carbs but have never had to use it on a Walbro

Got another issue. I'm tapping on the flywheel opposite of magnets but it's not coming off. You guys have any tricks? Kind of sucks trying to remove things that's probably never been off since it was assembled 20 years ago.


Also, the two screws on the lower rear handle is not budging. I need to work on my grip/forearm strength.

Why are you taking the rear handle off? I only do that if I need to split the crankcase.

I find it helps to put a little pressure (I mean a LITTLE) by putting a wood wedge between the saw case and the back of the flywheel. I use a hard plastic mallet. If you don't have one, use a block of hardwood between the flywheel and a metal hammer. You need to give it several good whacks to get it loose.
Watch you don't miss and break a fin off your cylinder.

Remember you are working with a magnesium alloy which is not very strong. Don't over tighten anything. If you are afraid the fasteners will come loose, use some Loctite blue (242) thread locker on the screws. Be careful of the bolts holding the carb on as the grey carb adapter (between the cylinder and carb) is plastic and you can ruin that.

Look at the torque values for the saw on page 23 of your service manual. Remember that 50 inch pounds is only 4 foot lbs. You can see the clutch goes on with only 15 to 20 foot pounds.

 

[fossil]

My wife has an apple "I Pad". She uses it to Facetime (apple products only) with the kids and grandkids just about every day. They would be a fantastic tool for on line diagnostics and "show me" stuff as they are very portable and have cameras in both sides. They only go apple to apple product though. Similar to Skype but much more portable.

 

[Ambull01]

If you don't need it, don't bother with the sea foam. I've had trouble with Tillotson HS carbs but have never had to use it on a Walbro

Why are you taking the rear handle off? I only do that if I need to split the crankcase.

I find it helps to put a little pressure (I mean a LITTLE) by putting a wood wedge between the saw case and the back of the flywheel. I use a hard plastic mallet. If you don't have one, use a block of hardwood between the flywheel and a metal hammer. You need to give it several good whacks to get it loose.
Watch you don't miss and break a fin off your cylinder.

Remember you are working with a magnesium alloy which is not very strong. Don't over tighten anything. If you are afraid the fasteners will come loose, use some Loctite blue (242) thread locker on the screws. Be careful of the bolts holding the carb on as the grey carb adapter (between the cylinder and carb) is plastic and you can ruin that.

Look at the torque values for the saw on page 23 of your service manual. Remember that 50 inch pounds is only 4 foot lbs. You can see the clutch goes on with only 15 to 20 foot pounds.

I'm not sure if I need the sea foam or not. I kind of want to clean out the fuel tank before I put in a new fuel line, just as a precaution. I'm thinking there may be crap in the carb from all the debris I saw in it so figured the sea foam couldn't hurt.

Not sure why I'm taking the rear handle off lol. I'm trying to clean everything to make it look new saw clean. I'll never clean it like this again though.

Yeah I'm super nervous about whacking the flywheel. I saw some kind of threaded tool on You Tube that makes it look easy to remove the flywheel.

 

[Ambull01]

My wife has an apple "I Pad". She uses it to Facetime (apple products only) with the kids and grandkids just about every day. They would be a fantastic tool for on line diagnostics and "show me" stuff as they are very portable and have cameras in both sides. They only go apple to apple product though. Similar to Skype but much more portable.

Cool idea.

Speaking about wives, my wife called me about 5:30 a.m. this morning. She had a flat tire about 20-30 minutes away from home. Had to change it on the coldest morning of winter so far. It was maybe single to low double digits (think that was the low last night). Anyway, she was really grateful. I think that means I warrant another Poulan!

 

[fossil]

Parts are in. Now I gotta find a good plastic paint that can tolerate some heat . Maybe just regular high temp paintView attachment 392989

I don't think the top cover gets too hot. I would try Krylon Fusion for plastic. Guys use that for engine covers with good results.
Failing that, Engine paint is fuel resistant and rated for higher temps. I don't know how well it sticks to plastic or if it has any solvents in it that will damage the plastic. It can be very hard to stick regular paint to polyethylene which I think the covers are made of.

 

[fossil]

Yeah I'm super nervous about whacking the flywheel. I saw some kind of threaded tool on You Tube that makes it look easy to remove the flywheel.

You were likely looking at a puller. I use a steering wheel puller on saws that have starter pawls which are attached by bolts to the flywheel. You just pull the pawls and use the same thread bolt with the puller. These Poulan flywheels have stater pawls that are fastened to the flywheel with a splined press in fastener and are nor supposed to removed. I have taken a pair out of a flywheel and they would go back in with a bit of Loctite to hold them.

So.... the puller won't help you on the 375.

 

[Ambull01]

Yeah I'm super nervous about whacking the flywheel. I saw some kind of threaded tool on You Tube that makes it look easy to remove the flywheel.

You were likely looking at a puller. I use a steering wheel puller on saws that have starter pawls which are attached by bolts to the flywheel. You just pull the pawls and use the same thread bolt with the puller. These Poulan flywheels have stater pawls that are fastened to the flywheel with a splined press in fastener and are nor supposed to removed. I have taken a pair out of a flywheel and they would go back in with a bit of Loctite to hold them.

So.... the puller won't help you on the 375.

I'm giving up on the flywheel. Just going to clean up the rest of the saw and put it all back. Just spent about 4 hours doing this. Pieces are all over my living room floor lol.

 

[Ambull01]

Last question for today. Anyone ever see a manual push rod boot that completely broke up. I peeked under the oil pump plate and noticed some saw dust looking gunk where the boot was supposed to be.

 

[OhioGregg]

Yep, it's 3/4". I tried using two wrenches but that didn't work. Did you keep the spur sprocket or are you running a rim? I think that's what they're called.



I over think everything. Thought I would grow out of it but that doesn't seem to be happening.



No impact wrench, I do have a hammer drill that has different settings. I may try that. This is a really dumb question, sorry. What am I inserting the rope into?

I have both rim style sprockets and spur type. I personally like the rim style a little better. It usually a little more expensive, but after that all you have to replace is the rim itself. I have good luck with both. With the rim style you can change the ratio also, like a "7 pin" or "8 pin" rim etc. Most of these saws are best with the standard 7.


As far as getting the flywheel off goes. I usually will take the nut & washer off. Spray a shot of PB Blaster or some such stuff on the theaded end of the crank. I will "tap" I repeat, "tap" the flywheel with a hammer on the solid side of the flywheel, up at about the 1:00 o-clock position. If that doesn't do it, I will put a socket big enough to go over the end of the threaded crank end, but that will sit flush on the center of the flywheel. And give the socket a rap or two. Will usually pop right of.

Just don't hit the fins on the flywheel or the cyl. for that matter. Can easily break fins when trying to pry with a screw driver. By the way. You almost have to remove the flywheel to remove the fuel tank.

Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

Last question for today. Anyone ever see a manual push rod boot that completely broke up. I peeked under the oil pump plate and noticed some saw dust looking gunk where the boot was supposed to be.

There is suppose to be a small block of foam that the manual oiler rod goes through, to keep some dirt and crud out of there. It is easy to just cut a small piece of foam and so it goes around the rod. I think its just about behind where that plate starts. Been awhile since I been in there on one.

Gregg,