Nik's Poulan Thread

[Ambull01]

I have both rim style sprockets and spur type. I personally like the rim style a little better. It usually a little more expensive, but after that all you have to replace is the rim itself. I have good luck with both. With the rim style you can change the ratio also, like a "7 pin" or "8 pin" rim etc. Most of these saws are best with the standard 7.


As far as getting the flywheel off goes. I usually will take the nut & washer off. Spray a shot of PB Blaster or some such stuff on the theaded end of the crank. I will "tap" I repeat, "tap" the flywheel with a hammer on the solid side of the flywheel, up at about the 1:00 o-clock position. If that doesn't do it, I will put a socket big enough to go over the end of the threaded crank end, but that will sit flush on the center of the flywheel. And give the socket a rap or two. Will usually pop right of.

Just don't hit the fins on the flywheel or the cyl. for that matter. Can easily break fins when trying to pry with a screw driver. By the way. You almost have to remove the flywheel to remove the fuel tank.

Gregg,

That's the cleanest looking used saw I've ever seen. I feel like my cleaning job sucks now.

I'll have to mess with the flywheel tomorrow, I'm done for the day. That thing just kicked my ass. Now I have to figure out how to put tension back onto the pull rope. This service manual assumes the reader isn't totally ignorant. I need to search You Tube for some visual aides.

 

[Ambull01]

There is suppose to be a small block of foam that the manual oiler rod goes through, to keep some dirt and crud out of there. It is easy to just cut a small piece of foam and so it goes around the rod. I think its just about behind where that plate starts. Been awhile since I been in there on one.

Gregg,

Okay cool, so I can just make my own. Now I really need to remove the clutch to remove the oiler plate.

 

[fossil]

Just remember you turn the clutch nut clockwise to get it off.

 

[fossil]

If you're looking for a rim sprocket set up you may have more luck locating an Oregon Power Mate 28187X.

It's obsolete but there are lots of them out there for sale.
If you can wait a bit I will make a quick video of how to tension the rope on your saw. It's very easy.

 

[fossil]

Check this out for your recoil assembly. 2 minutes to make the video and 30 minutes to upload.
This a 3400 and yours will have a different pulley center but the fix is the same for most chainsaws.

You can do it without removing the plate but it shows better and it is easier with the plate removed.

http://vid731.photobucket.com/album...00 series recoil rope tension_zps1zawbnuz.mp4

 

[Ambull01]

Check this out for your recoil assembly. 2 minutes to make the video and 30 minutes to upload.
This a 3400 and yours will have a different pulley center but the fix is the same for most chainsaws.

You can do it without removing the plate but it shows better and it is easier with the plate removed.

http://vid731.photobucket.com/albums/ww319/Fossil1/Poulan 3400 series recoil rope tension_zps1zawbnuz.mp4

Awesome. Thank you sir. I did three turns like the service manual called for and it's working now. I have everything back together except the manual oiler wire lever thing. I have to remove the handle bar again I thing to swivel the rear handle back. Have to get another foam thingy first anyway. I also had the saw completely together and had two screws and a bolt left over lol. Figured out I forgot the bolt on the flywheel and the two screws are for the bucking spikes that I left in my kitchen sink. Now I have to remove the bar cover, bar, and chain again. Someday I'll become decent at this whole chainsaw thing.

 

[OhioGregg]

Check this out for your recoil assembly. 2 minutes to make the video and 30 minutes to upload.
This a 3400 and yours will have a different pulley center but the fix is the same for most chainsaws.

You can do it without removing the plate but it shows better and it is easier with the plate removed.

http://vid731.photobucket.com/albums/ww319/Fossil1/Poulan 3400 series recoil rope tension_zps1zawbnuz.mp4

Great job with that Tim! Sure is a lot easier to explain somethings with pictures or videos.

Gregg,

 

[Ambull01]

Yep, fossil's video was a huge help. That was probably one of the easiest things you guys do but for some reason the manual's explanation had me stumped. If any of you feel bored, you could always make a vid of removing flywheels and clutches.

If I remove the clutch with an impact driver, could I then tap the bolt from the clutch side to remove the flywheel?

 

[redunshee]

Yep, fossil's video was a huge help. That was probably one of the easiest things you guys do but for some reason the manual's explanation had me stumped. If any of you feel bored, you could always make a vid of removing flywheels and clutches.

If I remove the clutch with an impact driver, could I then tap the bolt from the clutch side to remove the flywheel?

If you use an impact driver on the clutch ,go easy or it will fly off into nowhere land. I remove the flywheel by loosening the nut until it's at the top of the crank threads. I then hit it with a hammer. The nut protects the threads and allows you to hit it with more vigor. Do not hit the clutch side crank to remove the flywheel. BTW, hold the saw off the ground by the flywheel and tap. This helps.

 

[redunshee]

Stopped in my local Stihl dealer and started a conversation with a customer. Short story he wanted a bigger saw and I said I had some. Stopped by the house and he brought his poulan / craftsman 4216 or something like that. Said it didn't sound right. Started it up and muffler almost fell off. I showed him scoring on the intake side of cylinder and I stated the saw had seen better days. Asked him what ratio he used and he said he used the premix stuff in the can. He showed me the can and it was for "four stroke" engines. He used two cans. I ultimately sold him one of my 3700's. What are the odds I get it back scored. I may live to regret this sale.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...What am I inserting the rope into?

sorry. inserting the rope into the spark plug hole

 

[OhioGregg]

Stopped in my local Stihl dealer and started a conversation with a customer. Short story he wanted a bigger saw and I said I had some. Stopped by the house and he brought his poulan / craftsman 4216 or something like that. Said it didn't sound right. Started it up and muffler almost fell off. I showed him scoring on the intake side of cylinder and I stated the saw had seen better days. Asked him what ratio he used and he said he used the premix stuff in the can. He showed me the can and it was for "four stroke" engines. He used two cans. I ultimately sold him one of my 3700's. What are the odds I get it back scored. I may live to regret this sale.

Well, I'm sure it will last a while anyway. Because I'm sure you showed & told him just what for oil to mix for the 3700. Can't say what its long term health will be. He sounds like a good candidate for an electric saw!

Gregg,

 

[Ambull01]

If you use an impact driver on the clutch ,go easy or it will fly off into nowhere land. I remove the flywheel by loosening the nut until it's at the top of the crank threads. I then hit it with a hammer. The nut protects the threads and allows you to hit it with more vigor. Do not hit the clutch side crank to remove the flywheel. BTW, hold the saw off the ground by the flywheel and tap. This helps.

Have to get a 3/4" fitting. I saw someone on You Tube remove the flywheel that way. He placed a screwdriver on the side of the flywheel and applied gentle pressure to it then whacked the bolt.

Regarding your story, why is there premix for four strokes? I thought they took straight fuel and had a separate tank for oil. Also, it's a bit of an eye opener that you can score a saw just by running two cans of the wrong fuel. I may start driving to the ethanol free gas station.

sorry. inserting the rope into the spark plug hole

Okay gotcha. So the knots are just there to prevent the piston from moving. That makes sense. Thanks

 

[Guido Salvage]

Regarding your story, why is there premix for four strokes? I thought they took straight fuel and had a separate tank for oil. Also, it's a bit of an eye opener that you can score a saw just by running two cans of the wrong fuel. I may start driving to the ethanol free gas station.

I suspect that it has stabilizers added to give it a long shelf life.

 

[Ambull01]

I suspect that it has stabilizers added to give it a long shelf life.

Have you had time to mess with that $25 8500 yet?

 

[redunshee]

Have to get a 3/4" fitting. I saw someone on You Tube remove the flywheel that way. He placed a screwdriver on the side of the flywheel and applied gentle pressure to it then whacked the bolt.

Regarding your story, why is there premix for four strokes? I thought they took straight fuel and had a separate tank for oil. Also, it's a bit of an eye opener that you can score a saw just by running two cans of the wrong fuel. I may start driving to the ethanol free gas station.



Okay gotcha. So the knots are just there to prevent the piston from moving. That makes sense. Thanks

Ur correct about premix. No oil companies n 4 stroke. Misnomer on my part.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Have you had time to mess with that $25 8500 yet?

No, pulled the muffler and did a compression test, it is scored and only blew 90 PSI. Keeping it as a parts saw.

 

[Ambull01]

sorry. inserting the rope into the spark plug hole

Okay, the rope thing worked. I got the clutch off. I almost crapped myself when the knot refused to come out lol. Luckily the knot came undone. I thought I was going to pop the top of the crank case off (not sure what it's called). I did dislodge a bit of crud on the top of the piston. Should I spray some liquid wrench or something else to clean it up after I do the carb kit?

Now I can replace the manual oiler boot thingy. Have to keep working on the flywheel too.

 

[Ambull01]

If you use an impact driver on the clutch ,go easy or it will fly off into nowhere land. I remove the flywheel by loosening the nut until it's at the top of the crank threads. I then hit it with a hammer. The nut protects the threads and allows you to hit it with more vigor. Do not hit the clutch side crank to remove the flywheel. BTW, hold the saw off the ground by the flywheel and tap. This helps.

I got the flywheel off!!!! Used a 3/8" extension and placed it on the nut that I made flush with the bolt. Couldn't just whack the nut with the hammer because of the spring thingies on top of the flywheel. You guys remove those two spring loaded things first? Probably should have asked that before taking it off.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

one of the first things I do before diving in is remove muffler, rotate crank until piston fully closes off the exhaust port, clean out the carbon from the exhaust port (there will be some). owner's manuals recommend using wood to do this. I use small screwdrivers, or other sharp objects, being VERY careful to NOT touch the piston. then take a sharpened dowel rod and/or flat piece of hardwood to get next to the piston. Then I shoot it with compressed air. This keeps the dislodged carbon from getting into the upper or lower case.

Regarding the dislodged carbon in the compression chamber- lower the piston until the top is even with the bottom of the exhaust port and blow it out with compressed air through the spark plug hole. if you don't have a compressor turn the saw over and try to shake it out. Loose carbon chips may scratch your cylinder and/or piston (carbon scratches). course they may also be blown into your muffler and perhaps eventually will escape into the wild. why take the chance? while not necessarily wrecking your saw, who needs scratches however light they may be?

Wouldn't worry about trying to clean your piston unless you pull the cylinder off. Then clean it real good. a properly tuned saw should eventually burn the carbon off the top of the piston.

I use paper clips to tie those "spring thingies" back so I can get a wack on the crank/nut. However, before doing any of this I shoot some kroil (or other penetrating fluid) into the crank/flywheel interface. I let it sit a little while before proceeding. I insert a small, flat pry bar (when I can) to apply gentle, but firm, pressure to the bottom of the flywheel before wacking. I usually place a small piece of wood under the pry bar to keep it off the engine. if a couple of wacks don't do it I turn the flywheel and do it again. best part of this is I'm not trying to hit a downward facing target with an upward swung hammer. I just set it on the bench. One other thing that may have been mentioned. it is very important that the nut totally cover the threads on the crank. otherwise you may bugger some threads and that is a major PITA to fix. you can ask me how I know this but I won't answer.

that's my two cents. if I'm wrong someone will correct me. hopefully. just saying