Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Factory is thin pressed cork, but thick gasket paper works fine.
There are still some floating around too, on auction sites & vendors, 5300 19022.
Don't pull a Brad & forget to punch or notch it inside for the impulse hole!
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
Link to IPL- it's line item #3 on page 3
http://www.poulan.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1977_USen/POUI1977_USen_63617_.pdf
a
That's the key in your hand. The round side fits into the crank slot. The flat part sticking out which mates to the slot in the flywheel should be on the same angle as the tapered crank snout. If the flywheel doesn't just slip on, pull it off and adjust the angle of the key.
Don't force it on.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks Tim. I've got to pick up the piece for the starter switch to rewire and then I'll put everything back together. Hopefully I'll have running this weekend thanks to everyone's help!
A woodruff key. Could get one at an auto parts store or hardware store.
I had a look at the repair manual. I'm guessing the side to side play in the crank is just set by the bearing position. It doesn't make any mention of bearing depth in the pockets, just that they are to be seated.
You should be fine with the clearance you have. You shouldn't be able to feel any radial clearance with ball bearings which would up / down or side to side play.
I'd be nervous about any side-to-side crank play...even a tiny bit of it. The bearing position shouldn't affect 'play' unless the bearing position itself is what is actually changing. The crank should not be sloppy in the bearings in any direction if everything is properly assembled in a solid case with the correct parts and methods.
TALLGUY
ArboristSite Operative
I picked this saw up in my travels last night through Nebraska. It runs with fresh fuel but I think needs a fair amount of work. Poulan pro 455
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Is just a little in and out play. And let's be honest who doesn't like that!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
You all are brilliant! Replaced the wire fitting to the starter switch and put the fly wheel key back in its spot and put the fly wheel back on on the 5200. Put it all back together and she fired first try! Runs strong but carb still needs some fine tuning. So satisfying, thanks for everybody's help!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice strong saws.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
You can but some filing is likely needed for it too fit. Never found one that was exact.
I've only used the Permatex MotoSeal so I can't comment on the others. I've heard the MotoSeal has a longer open working time than the others which is good if you're sealing case halves. I also think it's cheaper than the Yamabond and Hondabond. It also has good shelf life so you won't be stuck with a dried up tube of the stuff.
It works great on any sealing job on a saw. It does stick to gaskets and may need you to use a new one if you disassembled it.
Works great for me anyways.
It's a great runner, but I launched the guts from this PP375's manual oiler into the abyss of the garage this morning.
The snap ring under the red cap likely was already dislodged. Found the red cap and return spring, but still looking for the plunger and midget sized snap internal ring...shouldn't be too far from them. Stuff like this seems to happen more often lately, guess I'm getting old & clumsy.
Robbed the plunger and snap ring from a spare, put in a new quad o-ring & a custom Hoggwood diaphragm, and buttoned it all back up. Oils like the Exxon Valdez now.
Edit- found it all in the pile of floor sweep! Garage floor is the cleanest I've seen it
Glad to hear that nitrile is working for you.
Thanks, I thought about you when I was punching all those dam holes with the Osborne puncher LOL!
I'm about to try to replace some S25DA oilers with that same nitrile material. The OEM is only 0.010" thick on those little S25s, but it should pump fine.
I'll have to remove the button and then recrimp, but it's worth a try. A 3-jaw drill collet should work to crimp that soft aluminum button down, then the steel washer lifts off. I got one button off pretty easily.
They're up to $15 each, when you can find them, and I've saved seven or eight to work on. Thinking I need to add a drop of super glue or Motoseal right before I smash the button back down, but there may be a better glue for nitrile?
I'm about to try to replace some S25DA oilers with that same nitrile material. The OEM is only 0.010" thick on those little S25s, but it should pump fine.
I'll have to remove the button and then recrimp, but it's worth a try. A 3-jaw drill collet should work to crimp that soft aluminum button down, then the steel washer lifts off. I got one button off pretty easily.
They're up to $15 each, when you can find them, and I've saved seven or eight to work on. Thinking I need to add a drop of super glue or Motoseal right before I smash the button back down, but there may be a better glue for nitrile?
