It'll be worth it.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
I know of a Super 1800 for sale. I was wondering if it were hotter than a plain 1800 - like maybe it was 38 cc's like the 2300 or something.
No, like I said, depending on the type number it might be a 2.o saw instead of a 1.8. If it was 2300cc/2.3CI then it would be a 2300.
Mark, I wish you would tell your Horse to produce some for the 3400/4000 saws too.
Gregg,
Those would be a piece of cake, and I'll suggest it.
I have a 2000 and 2300, you can tell the difference when cutting with them.
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
blk05crew
I like 'em green
I replaced the crank seals on the one 5200 last night and I have to say it was easier than I expected. But for those of you who may not have done it but need to, I took pictures to post that will
hopefully help someone out that may need some direction. Here goes.
Got the clutch removed and oil pump removed to get to the seal.
I used a hooked screw driver to to remove the old seal. Here it is removed.
Then I used a piece of beer can to go around the step on the crank and I lubed up the new seal to put over that.
Then I tapped the seal in with a socket and a hammer and pulled the piece of aluminum out with some pliers.
The other side side is even easier. Just remove the flywheel a pop out the old seal and then put the new one in and tap it into place. No need for the aluminum piece on that side as there isn't that step
on the crank. Here it is installed.
And then just put everything back together on that side as well. All in all took me about an hour from tear down to finished. Here it is with 24" B/C I just put on as well.
Hopefully this will help someone out down the road.
hopefully help someone out that may need some direction. Here goes.
Got the clutch removed and oil pump removed to get to the seal.
I used a hooked screw driver to to remove the old seal. Here it is removed.
Then I used a piece of beer can to go around the step on the crank and I lubed up the new seal to put over that.
Then I tapped the seal in with a socket and a hammer and pulled the piece of aluminum out with some pliers.
The other side side is even easier. Just remove the flywheel a pop out the old seal and then put the new one in and tap it into place. No need for the aluminum piece on that side as there isn't that step
on the crank. Here it is installed.
And then just put everything back together on that side as well. All in all took me about an hour from tear down to finished. Here it is with 24" B/C I just put on as well.
Hopefully this will help someone out down the road.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
After doing the seals last night, the saw still isn't running quite right. With the H/L screws both at 1 turn out the saw will fire and run with the idle screw turned in quite a bit so that chain is moving pretty quick. Then while it's running I backed the idle screw out until it idles down real nice and it will idle like that for 5-10 seconds and then it shuts off. Then when I try and start it with the carb and idle screw set to where it was idling nice, the saw will pop and try to start but won't. I took the carb apart thinking maybe it wasn't getting enough fuel but the metering lever is flush with the base of the carb. I also added new fuel line just to be on the safe side. Anybody have any other ideas on what I might be missing?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I assume you rebuilt the carb? Sounds like the pump side of the carb might be the problem. Maybe someone else will pop in. I presume you did a leak down test to ensure you don't have an air leak.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Yes carb was rebuilt, new gasket under the cylinder and new gasket under the reed valve and carb intake. I think I've done everything except an do a pressure test, I don't have the stuff to do that.
Looking at the pic of the beer can piece you used to slide the seal over the step; it looks like there's a sharp edge sticking out. Any chance you cut the seal lip with the can material?
blk05crew
I like 'em green
I suppose it is possible, but I pinched the aluminum together when I slid the seal over it so that wouldn't happen. I think I'm just going to have to take it somewhere where I can have it vac and pressure tested. Who knows where the issue is and it's hard for anyone to tell here without seeing the saw. I just didn't know if I was missing something simple I may have overlooked.
Nate, You done a great job on that 5200. I'm certainly no expert on these, so just grasping for something that might be amiss. Assuming it doesn't have an air leak. Sounds like it might need to be richend slightly. The 1 turn out on the needles is just a starting point, not necessarily where they end up. ? Maybe where you had it set was good, but clutch springs might be weak, letting it slip. ? Does yours still have the governed carb? That possibly could be acting up I suppose. If it does, you can block them off. Or do like I did on one of mine. Just put a carb from a 4200 on mine. They don't have a gov. Same carb though.
I think I would put the saw in some good size wood and run it some. Get it warmed up and try setting the needles.
Gregg,
I think I would put the saw in some good size wood and run it some. Get it warmed up and try setting the needles.
Gregg,
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Nate, You done a great job on that 5200. I'm certainly no expert on these, so just grasping for something that might be amiss. Assuming it doesn't have an air leak. Sounds like it might need to be richend slightly. The 1 turn out on the needles is just a starting point, not necessarily where they end up. ? Maybe where you had it set was good, but clutch springs might be weak, letting it slip. ? Does yours still have the governed carb? That possibly could be acting up I suppose. If it does, you can block them off. Or do like I did on one of mine. Just put a carb from a 4200 on mine. They don't have a gov. Same carb though.
I think I would put the saw in some good size wood and run it some. Get it warmed up and try setting the needles.
Gregg,
All great advice Gregg and thanks! Mark said the same thing about the governed carb, but I've tried 2 different ones. I do have a 4200 can I could thrown on there though.
I'm going to go out and mess with the screws a bit and what I can come up with.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Well I just came in from messing with the saw some more. I let it get warmed up and messed with all the screws.
I think I had the idle screw in too much and actually instead of turning the L screw out, I turned it in and it idled down real nice and just inside of one full turn.
It idles well and throttles up good now and won't die. I think it's good to go but I'm still a little nervous about a small air leak somewhere. Seems fine though I just need to get it into some wood I think.
I think I had the idle screw in too much and actually instead of turning the L screw out, I turned it in and it idled down real nice and just inside of one full turn.
It idles well and throttles up good now and won't die. I think it's good to go but I'm still a little nervous about a small air leak somewhere. Seems fine though I just need to get it into some wood I think.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you had an air leak, idling would be a problem and couldn't be fixed by adjusting the Lo and Hi needles. Seems like you ok from what you said.
Yes...I agree, Go cut some wood and take videos of it! LOL I'm starting to go crazy with cabin fever and these 0 degree mornings. Be nice to at least see someone else running a saw. 
Gregg,
Gregg,
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks everyone, it's a good feeling to get it done and running right for sure and the things I've learned doing it are immense!
Hopefully I can get out and do some cutting soon and I will take pics for sure!
Hopefully I can get out and do some cutting soon and I will take pics for sure!
