Saw a decent 3400 bowsaw on c/l today for $100.00, really thinking about jumping on that.
Steve
Steve
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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They look bad when that happens. Fueled a 200t on a chipper shoot. 2 other groundies some how did not see it and piled brush on it. Made it through the feed wheels of the Bandit 250xp but the main chunk just bounced around off the knifes. That is where we USED to always fuel saws up. My heart sank when I looked for the saw and then heard the noise from the chipper[emoji33]
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astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
That like is actually an unlike. I feel your pain. That's why I have a nobody borrows any of my chainsaws policy, not even family
redunshee
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Not a bad price seeing as how I've seen just the bow bar go for close to that.
redunshee
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Well I'm really into my 245A now. Decided to remove cylinder as there are some scratches etc. I want to take a closer look at. That and I need something to do. In looking at the cylinder nuts it appears that to easily access them and pull the cylinder I need to remove the top of the saw which includes the rear handle. Don't have the svc. manual so I'm going by feel here. Any thoughts before I start?
redunshee
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Possibly. I know a standard open end wrench will hardly fit with the top of the saw in place. Unfortunately this means I have to undo my reedvalve adaptor assembly after getting it nice and tight.
7/16 on the older saws, later ones used 3/8
Boomer 87
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Hey @Modifiedmark i got the correct crankseals for the 5200, im hoping to get it done over Christmas break. Is there any other parts i may need as i get down to them, i assume the oiler hast to be removed and i imagine theres a gasket there. Any light you can shed would be great. thanks cody
No you don't really need anything else. That gasket usually comes off clean, and you can make a new one if needed.
Just be damn sure you use a protector of some sort so you don't flip the lip of the seal over when putting it in.
The oiler gears run in bar oil and you will Isuck bar oil into the crankcase of that seal lip gets flipped.
Boomer 87
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Ok so i got seals for the 360 and 3700, the 360 seals look fairly easy, however the seals for the 3700 are so tiny, anyone changed them before? How did you manage to get them out they look impossible.
Or I have resorted to drilling a small hole in the metal part of the seal and then put a sheet metal screw in it and then using the screw to pry it out.
Probably the last 6 saws I have done this way. No fancy tools. I have used a small hook also and then pull them out if the seal lip is big enough to get it in there.
I took a old T-handle allen wrench and ground a hook on the end of it. It has worked pretty good on some seals.
Probably the last 6 saws I have done this way. No fancy tools. I have used a small hook also and then pull them out if the seal lip is big enough to get it in there.
I took a old T-handle allen wrench and ground a hook on the end of it. It has worked pretty good on some seals.
ANewSawyer
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I ground a screwdriver into a seal puller. Worked great. Punch the seal opposite the spot you want to pull it out.
Boomer 87
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So if your using a pick are you going between the seal lip and the crank surface? Ive done the drill hole and screw trick before but theres not much metal there i would hate to hit the case or the crank with a drill bit.
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