Nik's Poulan Thread

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So i found my air leak on the farm pro 375... its the throttle shaft on the carb, with it running and spray around the throttle shaft it pulled it down and quit every time. So does anyone have an walbro HDB that fits a 375 pro they would part with?
 
So i found my air leak on the farm pro 375... its the throttle shaft on the carb, with it running and spray around the throttle shaft it pulled it down and quit every time. So does anyone have an walbro HDB that fits a 375 pro they would part with?

I probably may have one. I'll have to check. Actually I know where a really rough parts saw is that still has the carburetor. It's the green version but should be the same. I also have a 2700 HDB carburetor but it may be different.


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Has anyone tached a 3400-4000 max rpms ive got mine set at about 2700 idle and about 9,250 WOT with bar and chain on no load. That seem to heavy? It 4 stokes pretty heavy at that setting
 
So i found my air leak on the farm pro 375... its the throttle shaft on the carb, with it running and spray around the throttle shaft it pulled it down and quit every time. So does anyone have an walbro HDB that fits a 375 pro they would part with?
Most saws will stall or pull down if you spray right on the throttle shaft. That is a controlled air leak and unless your shaft is really sloppy in the carb body bore, thats probably not your problem.
 
Yes your right i just found that out testing another saw, i swapped carbs and retuned made some test cuts it holds tune and idle speed also it never leans out at WOT loaded or unloaded. So im guessing maybe its good to go...... I hope
 
I spent some more time with it just a bit ago, starts good idles good cuts good. However if the saw is layed pto side down it picks up about 500 rpm. If i set it upright it settles back down. If i turn it flywheel side down it stays the same speed. Typically that would tell me its got a leaking crank seal, but ive had saws do the same exact thing and after a crank seal install, it acted the same way. What do you guys think? Im going to.put crank seals in it anyway bc i just want to but is there something else that could cause the rpm change?
Thanks cody
 
It probly is but i have had one do that rpm change before and after crank seal change. but i cant think of anything else that would cause a rpm fluctuation other than crank seals though.
 
Didn't damage the seal on it when you replace it. May want to spray carb cleaner on it and check. To me it's the classic sign of a seal leak. Got an old Sweed made Husky trimmer that does it if turned a certain way, not going to fix it, crank bears bout gone, cost more if still obtainable than just buy a new Echo or a Stihl.

Steve
 
I havent changed the seals in the 375 yet but ive changed a set before without any change, i know i didnt tear them. Ive got a set coming for the 375. I wish there was a place that had a bunch of them skf 6119s id buy a dozen of em.
 
Has anyone tached a 3400-4000 max rpms ive got mine set at about 2700 idle and about 9,250 WOT with bar and chain on no load. That seem to heavy? It 4 stokes pretty heavy at that setting
I've done several and would generalize that 10,000-10,500 seems normal/max. Did you run saw and turn HI needle in until it doesn't 4 stroke and then fatten until it does? you
 
What i typically do is start real heavy while cutting and slowly go leaner untill it cleans up in the cut, then i tach it and see where it is.

By doing it this way it seems to leave it a bit heavy under WOT no load. But i dont like holding it WOT for that long unloaded to see where it four stokes and where it doesnt.
 
I know that what acres says but i tried that and it was slobbering rich and wouldnt clear up in the cut at all
 

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