Nik's Poulan Thread

[muskycraig]

I have a Poulan 4200 now kinda looking. for a 5200, 5400, or 8500 is there a huge difference in power from the 4200 which seems to be more common? I know that there is no replacement for displacement when it comes to engines but just wondering. Thanks

 

[muskycraig]

Finally got around to changing the thrust washers in this 4000. I didn't have any larger pieces of wood to try it in. Just some old, dry ash. Took me more than a few minutes to get all the dust off my jeans. Cuts really well. Ran it against a strong XL-76 and the 76 got it's butt kicked.
View attachment 628704

Nice looking saw.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I love that color scheme.

 

[fossil]

I have a Poulan 4200 now kinda looking. for a 5200, 5400, or 8500 is there a huge difference in power from the 4200 which seems to be more common? I know that there is no replacement for displacement when it comes to engines but just wondering. Thanks

4200 is a fast 70cc class saw for sure. The 85cc versions make you say WOW!

Sort of like a Z28 against a Hemi Cuda. No comparison between the two.

 

[Todd Loosli]

Fossil, how much in and out play do you have in the 4000 now with the new spacers and what did you use to seal it back up, I'm doing my 4000 now. Nice work on the saw

 

[FamilyTradition]

Tim, that is one fine looking Canadian 4000! A 4000 with a chain brake is one of my favorite saws to run and collect. I would like to ask how common chain brakes are in your neck of the woods, as they appear to be a Canadian staple: are they easily found, or do you have to search them out? Bob AKA "Redunshee" and I traded drive covers a year or so back in this sticky, and I now have two 4000's with chain brakes. I also a have Poulan Pro 375 which I equipped with a NOS 395 Chain Brake kit I purchased off of eBay within the past few months. That's like the Super Bowl of 4000's right there! Best, Max.

 

[muskycraig]

4200 is a fast 70cc class saw for sure. The 85cc versions make you say WOW!

Sort of like a Z28 against a Hemi Cuda. No comparison between the two.

That is what I kinda figured but thought I'd ask have run some bigger cc stuff closer to the 100 range of my friends homelites and did the wow thing but wasn't for certain if 15cc would make a big difference. Thanks for the info.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Fossil, how much side to side play do you have in the 4000 now with the new spacers and what did you use to seal it back up, I'm doing my 4000 now. Nice work on the saw

The thrust washers don't set the side play of the crank, the depth of the crank bearings do.

 

[redunshee]

Fossil, how much side to side play do your surged it though have in the 4000 now with the new spacers and what did you use to seal it back up, I'm doing my 4000 now. Nice work on the saw

By side to side I presume you don't mean lateral play. If you mean in and out, a little is fine. Side to side( lateral play) means you may need new bearings. I seal the case halves with Dirko HT, Motoseal #1, or the same sealant you would use for the cylinder.

 

[Todd Loosli]

The thrust washers don't set the side play of the crank, the depth of the crank bearings do.

Yes I understand that, I set my bearings at .040 deep and it gives me. 009 in and out, is that OK or do I need more or less. Thanks

 

[fossil]

Fossil, how much side to side play do you have in the 4000 now with the new spacers and what did you use to seal it back up, I'm doing my 4000 now. Nice work on the saw

Like Mark said, the bearings set the side to side play. I settled on .012".There is no spec stated for the play because there's a Poulan tool that's used to set the bearing depth. I don't have one. That is the only pain in the butt with those saws, Those needle bearings have quite a bit of radial play. 0.005" to .006" is normal with new bearings. If you're in that range don't touch them. For side to side play I would guess anything from .010" to .020" is just fine. There are probably 1000's of the series out there running beyond those clearances.

Like Bob, I use Permatex Motoseal to seal the case halves up.

 

[fossil]

Yes I understand that, I set my bearings at .040 deep and it gives me. 009 in and out, is that OK or do I need more or less. Thanks

That would be OK by me if it was my saw.

 

[Hoggwood]

Finally got around to changing the thrust washers in this 4000. I didn't have any larger pieces of wood to try it in. Just some old, dry ash. Took me more than a few minutes to get all the dust off my jeans. Cuts really well. Ran it against a strong XL-76 and the 76 got it's butt kicked.
View attachment 628704

Looking good Tim.

I am curious how the 4000's stack up against the P40/41's. I've never had them both out in the woods together.

 

[fossil]

Tim, that is one fine looking Canadian 4000! A 4000 with a chain brake is one of my favorite saws to run and collect. I would like to ask how common chain brakes are in your neck of the woods, as they appear to be a Canadian staple: are they easily found, or do you have to search them out? Bob AKA "Redunshee" and I traded drive covers a year or so back in this sticky, and I now have two 4000's with chain brakes. I also a have Poulan Pro 375 which I equipped with a NOS 395 Chain Brake kit I purchased off of eBay within the past few months. That's like the Super Bowl of 4000's right there! Best, Max.

I wouldn't say the brakes are on most of the saws but there are a lot of them out there. You have to buy the saw to get one and most are on Craftsman and Canadian Tire saws. I've seen quite a few of them with worn pawls that cause the band to drag on the clutch drum. Hard to find so I made some.
There are three different flags on those brakes with the tubular steel one being the most common by far.

Apparently, there were a ton of those orange 4000's sold here but it took me a few years to find one.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Like Mark said, the bearings set the side to side play. I settled on .012".There is no spec stated for the play because there's a Poulan tool that's used to set the bearing depth. I don't have one. That is the only pain in the butt with those saws, Those needle bearings have quite a bit of radial play. 0.005" to .006" is normal with new bearings. If you're in that range don't touch them. For side to side play I would guess anything from .010" to .020" is just fine. There are probably 1000's of the series out there running beyond those clearances.

Like Bob, I use Permatex Motoseal to seal the case halves up.

What this guy here just said..

 

[Modifiedmark]

Looking good Tim.

I am curious how the 4000's stack up against the P40/41's. I've never had them both out in the woods together.

You have them both, you know. LOL

 

[s sidewall]

[emoji1]

Steve

 

[fossil]

Looking good Tim.

I am curious how the 4000's stack up against the P40/41's. I've never had them both out in the woods together.

Not a clue Cory. I have all three but lack some decent wood to try them. I would guess the Pioneers would pull a longer bar better.

Both with 24"' bars buried would tell.

I might put a little bar on the P41 tomorrow and see how it does with that against the 4000 if I get a chance

 

[Todd Loosli]

That would be OK by me if it was my saw.

Thanks for the help everyone, now on to the next part

 

[Hoggwood]

This is true.

I've never had them out together in wood that really pushed them, was where I was leaning. Seems every time I go out cutting, my back favours smaller and smaller rounds. 3000's get most of it done these days.

I've more than a few that will likely never see a true test. Harder to find decent sized timber with the way things have been going in these forests.