Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

Do the oiler gear sets in P4200/5200 series run dry?, in other words no initial dab of gear oil or moly grease at all?

I know the worm gears run slow & that cavity is fully isolated from the oiler flow & crank seal, but I’ve never seen in the service manual to add a bit of lube.

No they get lube from bar oil. I still lube them up before hand when putting them in, can't hurt anything.

I also flipped the lip on the PTO seal on one once, and you know it right away as it sucks the bar oil into the crankcase.

 

[3000 FPS]

JeremiahJohnson Those mufflers are far and few between in finding them. I would like to find more but I do not want to pay 60 bucks for one.
They do make for muffler mods a lot easier.

 

[hotshot]

No they get lube from bar oil. I still lube them up before hand when putting them in, can't hurt anything.

I also flipped the lip on the PTO seal on one once, and you know it right away as it sucks the bar oil into the crankcase.

Thanks, all mine stay dry so I will add a glob of grease on assembly. Not a bit of chain bar lube gets in them.

 

[redunshee]

Thought about shipping my 2300 up to Vermont. Got it started and it runs fine no chain turning at idle which I can’t say about my S25 da’s. Anyway lots of power but no oil to the chain. There’s a trickle out the oil port but not enough to get on the bar. I see the check valve behind the clutch. Might this be the culprit? Guess the pump is impulse driven. I had the pump off( guess that’s what you call it) and it looks fine as well as the line. Line looks to be Tygon so someone must have replaced it. Thoughts? Read earlier posts about there being a duckbill valve in the check valve.

 

[fossil]

Thought about shipping my 2300 up to Vermont. Got it started and it runs fine no chain turning at idle which I can’t say about my S25 da’s. Anyway lots of power but no oil to the chain. There’s a trickle out the oil port but not enough to get on the bar. I see the check valve behind the clutch. Might this be the culprit? Guess the pump is impulse driven. I had the pump off( guess that’s what you call it) and it looks fine as well as the line. Line looks to be Tygon so someone must have replaced it. Thoughts? Read earlier posts about there being a duckbill valve in the check valve.

That would be the first thing to check. You should be able to blow through but not suck any air back. It blocked or passes air both ways the duck bill is shot. If that's OK then check to make sure the little wire is still in the hole that's about an inch behind the oil discharge hole.



If the check valve is bad and you can't find a replacement, you can rebuild it.

I suspect some of you may have Poulan Micro's with the oiler check valve which is located behind the clutch. They give up after some period of time as they have a duckbill check valve which dissolves and won't oil.

This will let you know how to renew the valve which is becoming difficult to find.



There is a duckbill and a brass bushing inside. I searched some time ago and someone had repaired them successfully.

The one I took apart looks like this. The screen is missing.

The duckbill goes in flange up followed by the bushing which is stopped by a shoulder in the body and then the screen which is MIA

I cleaned and reassembled the valve parts in the order in the above pic. The duckbill is Poulan PN 530026119 which is readily available.

As mentioned previously, I had filed the top off that valve to remove the screen so I had no room to put the screen back in. I'm not sure how much debris the screen keeps out as the three I have removed had clean screens. I guess I will see if I use the saw for some length of time.



A few notes.

When the bushing, which is a slight press fit goes in, make sure it is firmly seated against the duckbill. If it is not, air will leak back to the crankcase and no pressure will build in the oil tank.

I peened the bushing / valve body to keep the bushing in place.
If I do another I'll pop the rolled lip back with a shaped drift so I can put the screen back in. DIDN'T WORK
Some other member(s) mentioned that they used some JB Weld to put the screen back on but I was a little reluctant as I wouldn't want it to fall off and end up in a bearing.

If you haven't run one of these before make sure you release the pressure in the oil tank by unscrewing the cap or it will keep oiling after you shut it off until the tank pressure bleeds off.

It works great.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks, all mine stay dry so I will add a glob of grease on assembly. Not a bit of chain bar lube gets in them.

I'm not sure I understand this? There is a slot in the gasket to let a bit of oil into the oiler. .

 

[s sidewall]

Thought about shipping my 2300 up to Vermont. Got it started and it runs fine no chain turning at idle which I can’t say about my S25 da’s. Anyway lots of power but no oil to the chain. There’s a trickle out the oil port but not enough to get on the bar. I see the check valve behind the clutch. Might this be the culprit? Guess the pump is impulse driven. I had the pump off( guess that’s what you call it) and it looks fine as well as the line. Line looks to be Tygon so someone must have replaced it. Thoughts? Read earlier posts about there being a duckbill valve in the check valve.

If all the looks good, may want to check to make sure the tiny orifice is clear in the pump and not clogged.

Steve

 

[s sidewall]

The 4200 and 5200 I made into one, when I pulled the pumps, there was oil in them.

Steve

 

[redunshee]

Thought about shipping my 2300 up to Vermont. Got it started and it runs fine no chain turning at idle which I can’t say about my S25 da’s. Anyway lots of power but no oil to the chain. There’s a trickle out the oil port but not enough to get on the bar. I see the check valve behind the clutch. Might this be the culprit? Guess the pump is impulse driven. I had the pump off( guess that’s what you call it) and it looks fine as well as the line. Line looks to be Tygon so someone must have replaced it. Thoughts? Read earlier posts about there being a duckbill valve in the check valve.

That would be the first thing to check. You should be able to blow through but not suck any air back. It blocked or passes air both ways the duck bill is shot. If that's OK then check to make sure the little wire is still in the hole that's about an inch behind the oil discharge hole.

View attachment 631555

If the check valve is bad and you can't find a replacement, you can rebuild it.

I suspect some of you may have Poulan Micro's with the oiler check valve which is located behind the clutch. They give up after some period of time as they have a duckbill check valve which dissolves and won't oil.

This will let you know how to renew the valve which is becoming difficult to find.
View attachment 631556


There is a duckbill and a brass bushing inside. I searched some time ago and someone had repaired them successfully.

The one I took apart looks like this. The screen is missing.

The duckbill goes in flange up followed by the bushing which is stopped by a shoulder in the body and then the screen which is MIA

I cleaned and reassembled the valve parts in the order in the above pic. The duckbill is Poulan PN 530026119 which is readily available.

As mentioned previously, I had filed the top off that valve to remove the screen so I had no room to put the screen back in. I'm not sure how much debris the screen keeps out as the three I have removed had clean screens. I guess I will see if I use the saw for some length of time.



A few notes.

When the bushing, which is a slight press fit goes in, make sure it is firmly seated against the duckbill. If it is not, air will leak back to the crankcase and no pressure will build in the oil tank.

I peened the bushing / valve body to keep the bushing in place.
If I do another I'll pop the rolled lip back with a shaped drift so I can put the screen back in. DIDN'T WORK
Some other member(s) mentioned that they used some JB Weld to put the screen back on but I was a little reluctant as I wouldn't want it to fall off and end up in a bearing.

If you haven't run one of these before make sure you release the pressure in the oil tank by unscrewing the cap or it will keep oiling after you shut it off until the tank pressure bleeds off.

It works great.

yTim, that’s what I need. The 2300 is set up like the 2000 so I can follow your write up.

 

[fossil]

yTim, that’s what I need. The 2300 is set up like the 2000 so I can follow your write up.

Make sure that bushing is staked in well so it doesn't get loose.

 

[hotshot]

I'm not sure I understand this? There is a slot in the gasket to let a bit of oil into the oiler. .

Thanks Mark, I see the slot now, right by the pickup tube nipple. I’ve got oiler issues then, thanks for the tip.

Missing the new crank seal too, lol.

 

[s sidewall]

That oil pump seal can still be had from Poulan.

Steve

 

[redunshee]

Make sure that bushing is staked in well so it doesn't get loose.

Well I pulled the check valve and I seem to be able to blow into it but not suck

Make sure that bushing is staked in well so it doesn't get loose.

Pulled check valve and it seems okay. I can blow air into it with my mouth but not suck any sir back. I presume this means its operating properly. I also pulled the " pump" . Is it supposed to be clear through the small opening to the nipple the hose attaches? Picture attached. I also blew threw the oil line and its clear.

 

[s sidewall]

Should be able to blow the the pump (metering valve).

Steve

 

[redunshee]

Should be able to blow the the pump (metering valve).

Steve

Wonder if i should try to run a small wire through it.

 

[s sidewall]

Tiny, I can't remember if it has a check ball or not, been awhile when I had mine apart.

Steve

 

[fossil]

Well I pulled the check valve and I seem to be able to blow into it but not suck

Pulled check valve and it seems okay. I can blow air into it with my mouth but View attachment 631616 not suck any sir back. I presume this means its operating properly. I also pulled the " pump" . Is it supposed to be clear through the small opening to the nipple the hose attaches? Picture attached. I also blew threw the oil line and its clear.

That unit is just the oil pick up. My recollection is that there's no check valve. Just to be safe, blow it out with low pressure air instead.
Make sure the oil line from that pick up to the discharge port isn't falling apart.

Make sure that wire is in the vent hole as I mentioned. If it's not, the saw won't build any tank pressure. A good test there is to block that hole off with some duct tape to make sure it's not letting too much air into the tank. It's purpose os to allow the tank to drop pressure when the saw is shut off so it doesn't continue to oil. The vibration may cause that hole to open (?) around the wire after a time just as it does on the 3400 series vent with the cotter pin in it.

 

[s sidewall]

Wonder if you can blow air into the bleeder port under low pressure to see if oil comes out of the oil discharge port. Be the same as if the saw was running. If it comes out real well, I'd go back to the check valve.

Steve

 

[redunshee]

Wonder if you can blow air into the bleeder port under low pressure to see if oil comes out of the oil discharge port. Be the same as if the saw was running. If it comes out real well, I'd go back to the check valve.

Steve

I did notice the gasket was missing and the prior owner used Dirko instead to seal it to the case. I have a new gasket coming and wonder if a poor seal may have caused part of the issue.

 

[redunshee]

I did notice the gasket was missing and the prior owner used Dirko instead to seal it to the case. I have a new gasket coming and wonder if a poor seal may have caused part of the issue.

There must be a check ball in the metering unit. Can't blow air thru it at lo pressure and a thin wire stops partially thru.