Is that RTV fuel proof. If not then you need to use something like Yamabond or Motoseal that is made for sealing up crank cases.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Yup, may have to do it twice instead of doing it right. Had the same issue last month on a little clam-shelled Super 2 Homey, learned my lesson.
I was wondering that too.
Stihl uses red dirko HT on clamshells. No clue what poulan used.
I know on poulan crankcases 330 etc they used what looks like black rtv. I always used Threebond 1194 1184 to put cases back together.
Just looking at this point
So now you have me concerned. I'll need to read the old label on that Permatex RTV to see what's it's recommended for ..... and for what it's not.
I did find it in my garage supplies, but don't know the original reason I purchased it.
Thanks for the heads up!
Happy New Year, Stephen! Hope you and your family are well. Best, Max.
So looking at the MANY Permatex variants online, red rtv came up with this statement : oil and gasoline resistant.
My not be their best option, but would be ok, except for maybe fuel tank.
Back in my basement though, my old tube is "high temp rtv 26b" which is not good for gasoline.
Redo!
At least it will be easy while it's still clean from the first assembly.
Permatex motoseal is available locally, and will better for gas.
My not be their best option, but would be ok, except for maybe fuel tank.
Back in my basement though, my old tube is "high temp rtv 26b" which is not good for gasoline.
Redo!
At least it will be easy while it's still clean from the first assembly.
Permatex motoseal is available locally, and will better for gas.
Thats the number that came back to the crankcases. The one I was talking about that was black.
Is that also what they used on clamshell saws?
Running the number 530030054 comes back to crankcases for ( just going by IPL)
Poulan
1800 Gas Chain Saw
2000 Gas Chain Saw
2100 Gas Chain Saw
2300AV Gas Chain Saw
2300CVA Gas Chain Saw
2350CVA Gas Chain Saw
2400 Gas Chain Saw
3000 Gas Chain Saw
3000CB Gas Chain Saw
2700 Gas Chain Saw
3100 Gas Chain Saw
3300 Gas Chain Saw
3350 Gas Chain Saw
3350 Gas Chain Saw
3400 Gas Chain Saw
3400 Gas Chain Saw
3500 Gas Chain Saw
3500 Gas Chain Saw
3600 Gas Chain Saw
3600 Gas Chain Saw
3700 Gas Chain Saw
3700 Gas Chain Saw
3800 Gas Chain Saw
3800 Gas Chain Saw
2600 Trimmer Gas Trimmer
MICROXXV Gas Chain Saw
MICROXXV Gas Chain Saw
4000 Gas Chain Saw
4000 Gas Chain Saw
2800 Gas Chain Saw
2800 Gas Chain Saw
PP420 Pro Gas Blower
285 Gas Chainsaw
285 Gas Chainsaw
305 Gas Chainsaw
305 Gas Chainsaw
335 Gas Chainsaw
335 Gas Chainsaw
235 Pro Chain Saw
235 Pro Chain Saw
375 Chain Saw
375 Chain Saw
385 Chain Saw
385 Chain Saw
395 Chain Saw
395 Chain Saw
PP180 Gas Chainsaw
PP180 Gas Chainsaw
PP180C Gas Chainsaw
PP180C Gas Chainsaw
PP235 Gas Chainsaw
PP235 Gas Chainsaw
PP236 Gas Chainsaw
PP236 Gas Chainsaw
PP236C Gas Chainsaw
PP236C Gas Chainsaw
PP285 Gas Chainsaw
PP285 Gas Chainsaw
PP305 Gas Chainsaw
PP305 Gas Chainsaw
PP336C Gas Chainsaw
PP336C Gas Chainsaw
PP365 Gas Chainsaw
PP365 Gas Chainsaw
PP365C Gas Chainsaw
PP365C Gas Chainsaw
PP375 Gas Chainsaw
PP375 Gas Chainsaw
PP385 Gas Chainsaw
PP385 Gas Chainsaw
PP395 Gas Chainsaw
PP395 Gas Chainsaw
S23 Arbor Pro Gas Chainsaw
S23 Arbor Pro Gas Chainsaw
PP 190 Chainsaw
OK here's the whole pipe dream. If I had a plated piston for a 47mm bore, I could hone the cylinder to fit. The cylinder I have will clean up and I already ordered the replacement piston, but for the cylinders that aren't so good, it's a thought. The husqv 359 piston by the way is just over 1mm shorter than the 4200's. I haven't clocked it to see what that might do. Any ideas?
If is shorter from the ring to the top of the piston then could be a drop in compression. But you could drop the cylinder and make up for it.
It's shorter on the skirt end. Ring to crown is very similar; pin to crown is close too.
I would try that and see how it runs. Usually when porting the intake side gets lowered, which gives it more timing and it opens sooner. With a shorter skirt it just opens sooner with no extra timing.
I do not know if that is advantageous or not.
I do not know if that is advantageous or not.
I pulled 2 PP4218 today that are parts saws on shelf. They do use something black in there too and reminds me of the black rtv silicon too.
You can see how the cap has a area for it in it and forms a ridge on the cylinder.
The other one just show it in front of clammy coming together too.
So it is black and cant find it on clammy IPL's I looked at anyways.
Yes, the two or three I have pulled apart all showed this black rtv gasket material. Similar quantities, and always inclined to stick to the crankcase rather than the cap.
On a side note: Interesting first example you have there, with the cap dry in significant areas, and only a little spray of oil in the rest. Did that one burn up from new with straight gassing the first tank?
No clue been setting many many many years. Anything in there should have evaporated IMHO over a 5-10 year period.
Like said I dont waste my time on these for a rebuild.
Piston looks good. It had bad crank threads for flywheel nut.
You know my thoughts on that silicone, great for valve covers, differential covers, & tits.
Look at the capitalized statement at the bottom of attached page 1. You can also see it literally melting off in pictures in the excellent old Roper rebuild thread.
https://www.silicone-solutions.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/RTV1473.pdf
Look at the capitalized statement at the bottom of attached page 1. You can also see it literally melting off in pictures in the excellent old Roper rebuild thread.
https://www.silicone-solutions.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/RTV1473.pdf
This is what I use. Expensive but worth every penny in mho.
https://www.exonicpolymers.com/Fuel-resistant-rtv-silicone-sealant-adhesive-p/ex3-110.htm
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