I determined that I'm going to wait for my new air filter and clutch drum/spur to get here before I run it anymore
Yep. I just rebuilt my oiler on the ole Poulan. It worked for a number of years dispite some fairly serious deterioration in the oil lines. I managed to find the crank-case check-valve and was able to clean the other check valve (the pump) and replace the hose. Works great. And yes, once pressure is in the tank it keeps pumping well after the saw is off. I kept mine on a cardboard box lid to help contain the drainage. Relieving tank pressure is indeed a good thing. Thinning the oil with about 10% diesel seems to help, too.===The oiler does indeed work by crankcase pressue like John mentioned.===The only real drawbacks are that the oil supply must be kept clean as they plug easily and they tend to seep oil off after being shut down. Removing the cap to release the tank pressure seems to help the saw from leaking as bad. ==
Couldn't tell you exact dates they were made. But, was in the mid 90's. The 375 & 395 were the last of the old style Poulans like that. They were 3700 & 4000's in Poulan Pro colors. Just seen a 4000 on ebay this afternoon
Gregg,
I determined that I'm going to wait for my new air filter and clutch drum/spur to get here before I run it anymore
Yep. I just rebuilt my oiler on the ole Poulan. It worked for a number of years dispite some fairly serious deterioration in the oil lines. I managed to find the crank-case check-valve and was able to clean the other check valve (the pump) and replace the hose. Works great. And yes, once pressure is in the tank it keeps pumping well after the saw is off. I kept mine on a cardboard box lid to help contain the drainage. Relieving tank pressure is indeed a good thing. Thinning the oil with about 10% diesel seems to help, too.
Those sprockets are all over ebay. All that series used the same one.
A 12-14" bar is probaly best for it as well. Baileys had some smoking deals on 12 inchers with chain here a while back. Might check to see if they still have them.
can't seem to find the gold and black 4000, maybe it was taken off already?
Just a little update to the Poulan Pro 375. I went out today and took the Walbro HDB off my "ugly ******* 3400" and put it on the 375. Saw runs GREAT!. So will start on the 306A next.
Gregg,
Gregg was it a direct bolt up?
Bob
can't seem to find the gold and black 4000, maybe it was taken off already?
Yes. They both use the exact same linkages, etc. All 3 needles are in the same place, same gaskets.
This is just my guess, maybe Mark knows. But I'm thinking since these saws were at near the end of production, they were low in supply of the Walbro carbs, and just contracted with Zama to make a run of carbs for them.???
Who knows why some at the end would have both, with the Walbro being used on this line of saws for years.
Havn't had the saw in wood yet, but it sure does sound good, and runs great.
Gregg,
Yes. They both use the exact same linkages, etc. All 3 needles are in the same place, same gaskets.
This is just my guess, maybe Mark knows. But I'm thinking since these saws were at near the end of production, they were low in supply of the Walbro carbs, and just contracted with Zama to make a run of carbs for them.???
Who knows why some at the end would have both, with the Walbro being used on this line of saws for years.
Havn't had the saw in wood yet, but it sure does sound good, and runs great.
Gregg,
Gregg, who knows why they went with the Zama. What really gets me wondering why is the fact that the IPL for the 385 and 395 show them useing the Walbro.
Personally, I never cared for the HDB's that well. I hate that circut plate and needle lever setup on them. I have never been deep into a bunch of different Zama's so I wouldn't be afraid to try it out. Might indeed be a upgrade.
Do me a favor and compare the venturi size between the HDB and the Zama would you?
Well, this Zama has the same type of needle and lever setup on them like the HDB. Everything just seems to be a little smaller. The venturi on this C3A Zama seems to be right at 17mm near as I can tell.
Gregg,
Another thing on this carb. I did find another number besides the C3A, W3 05P. During my exhaustive search on the web for this carb, with no luck by the way. I did find somewhere that the W in the #was a Poulan code, S was Stihl, and there was one for Mac and Homelite also.
I have checked pictures of just about all of their kits, and none of them look right, close but not the same. Seems this series was popular on mid size Stihl saws. 60cc saws. also.
Gregg,