Nik's Poulan Thread

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I had a chance to use the S25CVA again this evening. It's still breaking up once it gets hot. This one has me stumped. I've replace the coil, installed a nova module, and replaced the sparkplug. Can a flywheel be bad? I don't know how it could, but I'm at a loss at this point.

In the mean time, I finally got the other one done and in the wood. This one is wearing a rim sprocket, so is 7-pin instead of the 6-pin spur. I'm very happy with the way this one runs.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Z_0rSUQfg6Q?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Stihl picco?
 
I had a chance to use the S25CVA again this evening. It's still breaking up once it gets hot. This one has me stumped. I've replace the coil, installed a nova module, and replaced the sparkplug. Can a flywheel be bad? I don't know how it could, but I'm at a loss at this point.

In the mean time, I finally got the other one done and in the wood. This one is wearing a rim sprocket, so is 7-pin instead of the 6-pin spur. I'm very happy with the way this one runs.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Z_0rSUQfg6Q?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Brad mabe the Nova modual is causing the issues, I'd get a new a set of points, set em and see how that goes. The only way a flywheel could go bad is you have a bad magnet......and I doubt that. Anyway that saw is flying, don't show this video to the stihl and husky boys, they might get scared....
 
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Beer goggles should come with a wide load permit.

Ah, I love hearing from the voice of experiance! :cheers:

I had a chance to use the S25CVA again this evening. It's still breaking up once it gets hot. This one has me stumped. I've replace the coil, installed a nova module, and replaced the sparkplug. Can a flywheel be bad? I don't know how it could, but I'm at a loss at this point.

In the mean time, I finally got the other one done and in the wood. This one is wearing a rim sprocket, so is 7-pin instead of the 6-pin spur. I'm very happy with the way this one runs.

Well Brad you have me stumped as well. Those saws useally don't have any thing weird going on with them.

Maybe you should hook the points backup or try a different module?

I lost track, did it change any after you unhooked the points and went with the module?

I know you sure have the other one running like a good S25 should, maybe even a little better! :rock:


Edit, sorry Dave for repeating you, I type slow!
 
I had a chance to use the S25CVA again this evening. It's still breaking up once it gets hot. This one has me stumped. I've replace the coil, installed a nova module, and replaced the sparkplug. Can a flywheel be bad? I don't know how it could, but I'm at a loss at this point.

In the mean time, I finally got the other one done and in the wood. This one is wearing a rim sprocket, so is 7-pin instead of the 6-pin spur. I'm very happy with the way this one runs.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Z_0rSUQfg6Q?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Nice work Brad. Fast cutter too!
 
There was no change with any of the parts swapping. The entire ignition system has been replaced, except the kill switch. Hmmm. I don't think that's it though. It runs with it on, and dies when it's off. I wouldn't think it's the carb, since it only does it when it's hot. This is the saw with the ported cylinder. All I did was widen the exhaust and the rear transfers. Neither of these mods should cause this problem.

The one I posted the video of tonight, is bone stock, except for the internal muffler baffles and screen being removed. It's wearing WoodlandPro 30LP chain on the 7-pin rim. It has no trouble at all pulling the 7-pin.

I tell you what. If one of you guys want to take on this ported S25CVA, I'll let it go for $50. The only other thing it needs is one AV mount and maybe a oil pump diaphragm. The manual pump works fine.
 
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There was no change with any of the parts swapping. The entire ignition system has been replaced, except the kill switch. Hmmm. I don't think that's it though. It runs with it on, and dies when it's off. I wouldn't think it's the carb, since it only does it when it's hot. This is the saw with the ported cylinder. All I did was widen the exhaust and the rear transfers. Neither of these mods should cause this problem.

The one I posted the video of tonight, is bone stock, except for the internal muffler baffles and screen being removed. It's wearing WoodlandPro 30LP chain on the 7-pin rim. It has no trouble at all pulling the 7-pin.

I tell you what. If one of you guys want to take on this ported S25CVA, I'll let it go for $50. The only other thing it needs is one AV mount and maybe a oil pump diaphragm. The manual pump works fine.

I didnt think you were a quitter :laugh:

I'm sure its someting simple.

Send it to me, I'll make the little SOB straighten up an fly right.

If it don't it might actually fly.
 
I didnt think you were a quitter :laugh:

I'm sure its someting simple.

Send it to me, I'll make the little SOB straighten up an fly right.

If it don't it might actually fly.

I thought about asking if you would take a look at it. If it "flies", make sure you get it on video:) You'll probably find something simple that I missed, lol.
 
Poulan 2700/3300

Installed 3300. P&C on my old 2700 w/o a gasket. Ran saw but its not running very well. I rebuilt and pressure tested carb so I don't believe that's the cause. I did pressure and vacuum test the saw. It passed the pressure test very well but won't hold vacuum for any period of time. Couldn't find any leaks but ordered seals anyway. I did notice that after running, fuel flows out of the line when disconected from the carb. Wonder if the duckbill valve isn't allowing air to escape. That may be why it seems to run rough. I did a compression test and it tipped at 180. Seems awful high. Have two other 3300's and they hit 150.

Bob
 
Installed 3300. P&C on my old 2700 w/o a gasket. Ran saw but its not running very well. I rebuilt and pressure tested carb so I don't believe that's the cause. I did pressure and vacuum test the saw. It passed the pressure test very well but won't hold vacuum for any period of time. Couldn't find any leaks but ordered seals anyway. I did notice that after running, fuel flows out of the line when disconected from the carb. Wonder if the duckbill valve isn't allowing air to escape. That may be why it seems to run rough. I did a compression test and it tipped at 180. Seems awful high. Have two other 3300's and they hit 150.

Bob

Bob, the duck bill is supposed to let air in the tank, not out.

You maybe right on the seals, I have had them do the same, pass pressure but not vac. Seems the pressure will blow the seals tight on the crank sometimes.

I put some grease around the seal and the pumped the vac up high and you could see it pull the grease in around the seal that way.
 
Bob, the duck bill is supposed to let air in the tank, not out.

You maybe right on the seals, I have had them do the same, pass pressure but not vac. Seems the pressure will blow the seals tight on the crank sometimes.

I put some grease around the seal and the pumped the vac up high and you could see it pull the grease in around the seal that way.

Gotcha Mark. What would cause fuel to flow out of the line when disconnected from the carb? Is this normal or is the duckbill valve bad? Haven't noticed this before on my other saws. I'll try the grease trick.
Bob
 
I found a F bow saw, and F with a straight bar!



But unfortunately, its just a old advertisement on a ol sawmill truck :( But it was my grandpas so I need to go talk to him and ask what the deal is.
And I have been meaning to go take a picture of it...
 
25

I did not. Until tonight, I was convinced it was ignition. It's definately worth a try.

Brad
Do you have another top with a reed in it. I worked on a 25 that did the same thing only when it got hot. It acted like it was sucking air and would be all over the place after it got hot. I changed the top and reed off of a parts saw and that solved it. I know this sounds crazy and the experts can tell me it will not work but take it off clean the top were the carb bolts down and take the reed off. Lay it by the stove and let it geet good and warm. then take a short straight edge and lay across were the carb and reed go and see if it warps. Like I said sounds crazy but try it before you give up on it. That is just my 2 cents.
hunter h
 
Brad
Do you have another top with a reed in it.===That is just my 2 cents.
hunter h
hmmm. I was going through the operations in my head trying to think what would expand or warp with heat; this is a very real possibility. I doubt the porting would move up or down with heat. The carb really shouldn't see that much heat. maybe the top end of the chamber is loosening up or there is something wrong with the spark plug... this problem is a good 'un.
 
tillotson cross reference

if anyone doesn't already have this, here are cross references between saw models and the tillotson p/n. i was looking for a rebuild for my 361 and found this.
Tillotson Cross Reference

Interestingly all the Poulans listed (except the micro) use repair kit RK-23HS, and gasket kit DG-5HS/T.
 

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