Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

Hi invisable Mike!

 

[rms61moparman]

Hi invisable Mike!

Did I get invisible???
I've been trying to lose a little weight but ???????????


Mike

 

[67 Mustang]

Yep, and 60cc + 10cc or more would be even better!

My 245 has little trouble with a bow did it Steve?

Agree with you and Mike. The 245 is a good saw for a bow. I've got one if I ever get time to work on it. I've got a model 66 reduction drive running 1/2" chain that pulls nicely. Will bring to the next GTG.

 

[joe25DA]

335 Completed

Here it is boys. ...Fuel lines Pulse line, fuel filter, carb kit, plug and thats about it for parts.The EX port was loaded with carbon. I didnt want to take a chance having a chunk come off and ruin a real nice p/C so I pulled the jug and dremeled the port open a bit. The base gasket was disintegrated so it was a good thing I pulled it. I talked to Mike the other night and he told me about Permatex MOTOSEAL. So thats whats on the base. I cleaned it up real good and found no broken parts. Surprising for a saw used commercially. The intake boot was like new so I cleaned it and re-used it. Rebuilt the carb new gaskets and pulse line.
I modded the muffler a bit and then put it all back together. This saw has the thin rings and the other 335 has 1 thick ring...
20'' .325 original replacable tip bar and rim sprocket.
Fired up on 5th pull without cheating! (no prime) Im gonna do a final tune and cut this weekend. Im very happy with this saw. And I saved about $150 since this one cost $5
Dirrrtttty
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=SummerFall2010273.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010273.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
EX side after saw was cleaned
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=SummerFall2010281.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010281.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Cleaned and ready for re-assembly
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=SummerFall2010282.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010282.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Done
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=SummerFall2010285.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010285.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=SummerFall2010286.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010286.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Orig Poulan /Oregon replaceable tip bar. Kinda has a belly to it.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=SummerFall2010283.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010283.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[jimdad07]

Nice job on that one Joe. Guess what doesn't have a base gasket any more, is measuring .03125" squish and is pulling 180 psi compression?

 

[joe25DA]

Nice job on that one Joe. Guess what doesn't have a base gasket any more, is measuring .03125" squish and is pulling 180 psi compression?

Havent tested comp yet, but It was at 145 when I got it. Ill test that tomm afternoon.

 

[jimdad07]

I took the base gasket out of that Craftsman Frankensaw and that's the compression I ended up with. I was very pleased, that's a far cry from 140psi.

 

[OhioGregg]

Not a bad looker either.

Found out what the problem was. The kill wire behind the flywheel was rubbing and shorting out. Yeah, yeah I know, I should have checked it sooner but remember this was a complete build up and I checked that wire closely when I installed it.

The problem was I forgot to bend the little metal tabs over that secure that wire to the case to prevent that wire from touching the flywheel. Duh!

Remember when I finished putting this together, it was getting late Sunday night and I guess I was getting in too big a hurry and just spaced it off. Since this one was all spread over the bench, I wanted to get it out of the way before I tore into the Poulan Pro 655 to give it a good once over so I will be ready for the GTG .

I also wanted to show how I beveled the crankcase crank bores. It shure made insalling the crank seals much easier.

Great job on the 4000 Mark I had that happen to one of mine from that series of saws too. I have often wondered about the insulation on that wire. Every one of that series of saw that I have seen, the outer protective covering on that wire has been dried out and crumbling to pieces. When I put the wire back in, I just put the wire back without adding a new outer covering.

I never knew if that was on there for abrasion or heat protection, or both. So far I have not added anything to it, and seems to work ok. I think I might have wrapped one with electrical tape once. I thought about some thin fuel line or something, but never tried it.

Gregg,

 

[redunshee]

Great job on the 4000 Mark I had that happen to one of mine from that series of saws too. I have often wondered about the insulation on that wire. Every one of that series of saw that I have seen, the outer protective covering on that wire has been dried out and crumbling to pieces. When I put the wire back in, I just put the wire back without adding a new outer covering.

I never knew if that was on there for abrasion or heat protection, or both. So far I have not added anything to it, and seems to work ok. I think I might have wrapped one with electrical tape once. I thought about some thin fuel line or something, but never tried it.

Gregg,

I've had the same thought Gregg. Got some heat shrink wrap but the crimped ends make putting it on difficult. I suppose I can cut them off and put on new ones but decided it was more work than it was worth.
Bob

 

[barneyrb]

Gregg, one of the best things I have found is go to an electronic or electric supply and get some heat shrink tubing. I prefer the outdoor or the "jelly" filled stuff. If you do some looking you can get all different thicknesses and lengths.

 

[Old Line State]

Showing my ignorance

Agree with you and Mike. The 245 is a good saw for a bow. I've got one if I ever get time to work on it. I've got a model 66 reduction drive running 1/2" chain that pulls nicely. Will bring to the next GTG.

Ok I have seen pictures of bow saws and I have read what you guys say about bow saws but I can not figure out the why, what and where. When is it used? What advantage does it have over a standard chainsaw? I know there must be a purpose for one but I am missing it. When I try looking it up on the internet I just pull up the manual ones.

 

[67 Mustang]

Ok I have seen pictures of bow saws and I have read what you guys say about bow saws but I can not figure out the why, what and where. When is it used? What advantage does it have over a standard chainsaw? I know there must be a purpose for one but I am missing it. When I try looking it up on the internet I just pull up the manual ones.

Here's a great source of info about bow saws.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/109002.htm

 

[tbone75]

Here's a great source of info about bow saws.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/109002.htm

Great info!!! Thanks Seen bow saws but didn't know what they were used for.But you got me now i got to have one LOL CAD attack!!

 

[OhioGregg]

Gregg, one of the best things I have found is go to an electronic or electric supply and get some heat shrink tubing. I prefer the outdoor or the "jelly" filled stuff. If you do some looking you can get all different thicknesses and lengths.

Thanks for that tip Randy! I'm kinda like what Bob said. Never knew if it was worth the effort to try and cover the wire or not.
At least that is another good option.

Gregg,

 

[67 Mustang]

Great info!!! Thanks Seen bow saws but didn't know what they were used for.But you got me now i got to have one LOL CAD attack!!

You need to get ya one, T. Lotta fun.

 

[moparman]

Great info!!! Thanks Seen bow saws but didn't know what they were used for.But you got me now i got to have one LOL CAD attack!!

Seeing as you have to get one, be careful when you use it. It's kickback zone is more than 10x that of a regular guide bar. There were a number of Southern pulpwood cutters killed because they got careless or removed the spurs to increase cutting capacity.

90% of the information in History of Bow Bars does not even apply to the type of bows that most people are retrofitting on their saws.
Bows were designed in the South for Southern pulpwood cutters.
1. Their narrow bar loop pinches much less than a full width conventional bar.
2. The primary reason that they were designed was so the cutter would not have to bend over when bucking the pulp logs on the ground. (until fairly recently, southern pulp was cut only into short lengths the width of truck so they could be stacked by hand)
3. They are difficult to fell with.
4. You normally have to permanently modify your saw by cutting a slot into your clutch cover and crankcase to provide space for bow bar.
5. They are extremely dangerous especially when used incorrectly or with guards missing - this is the reason that they are no longer manufactured.

 

[tbone75]

Seeing as you have to get one, be careful when you use it. It's kickback zone is more than 10x that of a regular guide bar. There were a number of Southern pulpwood cutters killed because they got careless or removed the spurs to increase cutting capacity.

90% of the information in History of Bow Bars does not even apply to the type of bows that most people are retrofitting on their saws.
Bows were designed in the South for Southern pulpwood cutters.
1. Their narrow bar loop pinches much less than a full width conventional bar.
2. The primary reason that they were designed was so the cutter would not have to bend over when bucking the pulp logs on the ground. (until fairly recently, southern pulp was cut only into short lengths the width of truck so they could be stacked by hand)
3. They are difficult to fell with.
4. You normally have to permanently modify your saw by cutting a slot into your clutch cover and crankcase to provide space for bow bar.
5. They are extremely dangerous especially when used incorrectly or with guards missing - this is the reason that they are no longer manufactured.

Thankyou !! Maby I will just get one to look at LOL Not likely I would use it much.But still think I need one:msp_biggrin:

 

[HeRoze]

Great info!!! Thanks Seen bow saws but didn't know what they were used for.But you got me now i got to have one LOL CAD attack!!

beware!!!!!! The lure of upright bucking has resulted in me getting two 80cc gear drive MACs, two Poulan's, two bow bars, and I still don't like what I got

now to look for a 80cc or so non-gear drive that won't break my back due to the weight...

that 245 you redid looks awesome Mark, btw. I'll keep my eye out for one to add to my rebuild list!

oh, and what moparman said - the things pretty much operate in the kick-back zone, so keep the dogs and the top-guard in place, minimum. since it (obviously) bows up towards the top it is closer to the operator, cutting at normal blade level is asking for a scar diagonally across the face that is readily identifiable by all who have seen one before.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks for that tip Randy! I'm kinda like what Bob said. Never knew if it was worth the effort to try and cover the wire or not.
At least that is another good option.

Gregg,

Gregg, the wire I used from another saw already had one end missing so I just used a thick heat shrink tube on the wire to protect it from the abrasion from the hold down tabs.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Seeing as you have to get one, be careful when you use it. It's kickback zone is more than 10x that of a regular guide bar. There were a number of Southern pulpwood cutters killed because they got careless or removed the spurs to increase cutting capacity.

90% of the information in History of Bow Bars does not even apply to the type of bows that most people are retrofitting on their saws.
Bows were designed in the South for Southern pulpwood cutters.
1. Their narrow bar loop pinches much less than a full width conventional bar.
2. The primary reason that they were designed was so the cutter would not have to bend over when bucking the pulp logs on the ground. (until fairly recently, southern pulp was cut only into short lengths the width of truck so they could be stacked by hand)
3. They are difficult to fell with.
4. You normally have to permanently modify your saw by cutting a slot into your clutch cover and crankcase to provide space for bow bar.
5. They are extremely dangerous especially when used incorrectly or with guards missing - this is the reason that they are no longer manufactured.

Righto on all that!

Glad to see you posting Paul, where you been?

You get that 4.5 ci holy grail up and going yet to show us all?

I'm getting anxious to see it!