Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It wouldn't hurt to try turning the H screw out a small amount, try about 1/4 turn to start and see if it changes anything. If it doesn't do too much try another 1/4 turn.

I will attempt another tune session in the wood after I cool down a bit. Kind of a pain with this saw as the adjustment screws are directly behind the starting handle.
 
Jim, now that is a nice find in my biased opinion! :msp_w00t:

Judging from the one screw tin muffler, that should be a electronic ign saw. Did you check the fuel line and filter in the tank?

Both the H and L screws should be very close to one turn out on that saw. If one or the other is much off from that, it is a sign of fuel system troubles or a air leak. The carb is also governored so you can only do the final setting of the H screw in the wood. Thats why I'm telling you that the screw should be at one turn out to start and will probably end up right about there as well.

Did you try a new plug to start with?

Those are very simple setups on those saws but the fuel lines need to be checked.

The fuel lines were in better shape than I had expected, no cracks and still a little flexible, but will need to be replaced in the near future. I did change the plug but threw another older one in there that I knew works but I can pull a new one out of my firewood saw box. If it will not tune in the wood I will tear it down to see if I have a air leak some where. I did check for play in the bearings when I had it apart for cleaning and it was tight with no play so will look around the carb and replace fuel lines if needed.
 
Jim, now that is a nice find in my biased opinion! :msp_w00t:

Judging from the one screw tin muffler, that should be a electronic ign saw. Did you check the fuel line and filter in the tank?

Both the H and L screws should be very close to one turn out on that saw. If one or the other is much off from that, it is a sign of fuel system troubles or a air leak. The carb is also governored so you can only do the final setting of the H screw in the wood. Thats why I'm telling you that the screw should be at one turn out to start and will probably end up right about there as well.

Did you try a new plug to start with?

Those are very simple setups on those saws but the fuel lines need to be checked.

Come to think of it, when I rebuilt the carb on my 2z463 I set it initially at about one turn and never did have to adjust it again. It ran great right out of the box. That's the only saw I could ever do that with.
 
The fuel lines were in better shape than I had expected, no cracks and still a little flexible, but will need to be replaced in the near future. I did change the plug but threw another older one in there that I knew works but I can pull a new one out of my firewood saw box. If it will not tune in the wood I will tear it down to see if I have a air leak some where. I did check for play in the bearings when I had it apart for cleaning and it was tight with no play so will look around the carb and replace fuel lines if needed.


What is the whole story on this? How long has it been since it was run before you got it?

From the sounds of it, you have not had the carb off of it correct? How do you know that the inlet screen is not partly plugged and the diaphragms are good? If y ou have not done this you need to check those things. These saws are now over 35 years old.

The plug this saw needs is a CJ8 by the way.

This series of saws are not known for seal leaking problems in general.

Come to think of it, when I rebuilt the carb on my 2z463 I set it initially at about one turn and never did have to adjust it again. It ran great right out of the box. That's the only saw I could ever do that with.

Exactly what I was trying to tell eveyone. If all things are right, one turn out is what it needs on both. If one and 1/4 turn out isnt working right, there is a problem somewhere.
 
Last edited:
The fuel lines were in better shape than I had expected, no cracks and still a little flexible, but will need to be replaced in the near future. I did change the plug but threw another older one in there that I knew works but I can pull a new one out of my firewood saw box. If it will not tune in the wood I will tear it down to see if I have a air leak some where. I did check for play in the bearings when I had it apart for cleaning and it was tight with no play so will look around the carb and replace fuel lines if needed.

I know that Mark said to check the lines and filter. I will tell you to be sure the filter is large enough for this saw even if it is a clean filter.

The 245 that I just got would die out in the cut and it was because it had a filter on it that was to small. It would idle and rev up fine but would die out in the cut.
 
Good info here from everyone. I am guilty of not taking apart the carb, but will do that tomorrow after work. The fuel filter is on the bigger side of fuel filters but will take it out and clean it up, replacing the fuel lines with some new tygon. I asked about the saw from the seller and all he knew was that it was his fathers firewood saw he pulled it out of storage to use it to cut up some wood he had in his yard and it would not run right. I will replace the fuel lines, clean the carb, and change the plug with a new NKG. I would love to strap this saw in my saw vice on my 4 wheeler for trail clearing as it does not leak fuel or oil anywhere.
 
Good info here from everyone. I am guilty of not taking apart the carb, but will do that tomorrow after work. The fuel filter is on the bigger side of fuel filters but will take it out and clean it up, replacing the fuel lines with some new tygon. I asked about the saw from the seller and all he knew was that it was his fathers firewood saw he pulled it out of storage to use it to cut up some wood he had in his yard and it would not run right. I will replace the fuel lines, clean the carb, and change the plug with a new NKG. I would love to strap this saw in my saw vice on my 4 wheeler for trail clearing as it does not leak fuel or oil anywhere.

That's probably all you'll have to do to that saw. On mine I cleaned the carb, new kit, put in a new fuel line and it's run great ever since. Too bad they don't make those saws today.

One big problem with used saws is that the former owners leave the saw for a long time with gas in them. Sure would be nice if they drained them when they got done using them, but then again, we wouldn't be buying these nice saws for a fraction of what they're worth.
 
Last edited:
I haven't had very much luck with the ones I've gotten. Even though, they look to be in great shape, clean gas tanks, and good fuel lines, all of them have compression readings around 80#. They'll start, and run, just fine.....just can't do any cutting with them.....This has been the case with 2- 3400s, 2- 245As, 3 or 4 306s, and a 3800. All had compression readings around 80#.......Just went to check out 2 more 3400s, and they, too, had about 80# compression:msp_mad:
 
I haven't had very much luck with the ones I've gotten. Even though, they look to be in great shape, clean gas tanks, and good fuel lines, all of them have compression readings around 80#. They'll start, and run, just fine.....just can't do any cutting with them.....This has been the case with 2- 3400s, 2- 245As, 3 or 4 306s, and a 3800. All had compression readings around 80#.......Just went to check out 2 more 3400s, and they, too, had about 80# compression:msp_mad:

Please forgive me for asking the obvious question....................but are you sure your compression gauge is accurate? That's a lotta saws to all come up with 80# of compression. Have you pulled the mufflers and looked at the P/C's?
 
I haven't had very much luck with the ones I've gotten. Even though, they look to be in great shape, clean gas tanks, and good fuel lines, all of them have compression readings around 80#. They'll start, and run, just fine.....just can't do any cutting with them.....This has been the case with 2- 3400s, 2- 245As, 3 or 4 306s, and a 3800. All had compression readings around 80#.......Just went to check out 2 more 3400s, and they, too, had about 80# compression:msp_mad:




I'll give ya $10.00 each for those old junkers and pay the shipping!!!


Mike
 
I haven't had very much luck with the ones I've gotten. Even though, they look to be in great shape, clean gas tanks, and good fuel lines, all of them have compression readings around 80#. They'll start, and run, just fine.....just can't do any cutting with them.....This has been the case with 2- 3400s, 2- 245As, 3 or 4 306s, and a 3800. All had compression readings around 80#.......Just went to check out 2 more 3400s, and they, too, had about 80# compression:msp_mad:

All those saws reading only 80lbs, dosn't that raise a red flag that something else besides the saws is wrong?

You got to be kidding right? :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Aren't you supposed to be working?
Get back on your forktruck old man!!!:laugh:


Mike

Hey just because your ole lady can boss you around like that, don't mean you can boss me like that too!

BTW aint it kinda early for you to be home now? Get fired again? LOL

I'm home till the AM then leaving for the lake again. Its called vacation!

I did just cut the new .404 chain for the 33" bar on the 6000 though.....
 
Hey just because your ole lady can boss you around like that, don't mean you can boss me like that too!

BTW aint it kinda early for you to be home now? Get fired again? LOL

I'm home till the AM then leaving for the lake again. Its called vacation!

I did just cut the new .404 chain for the 33" bar on the 6000 though.....




She gets the same results I did!LOL

What are you doing taking vacation during my vacation?


Mike
 

Latest posts

Back
Top