Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hey just because your ole lady can boss you around like that, don't mean you can boss me like that too!

BTW aint it kinda early for you to be home now? Get fired again? LOL

I'm home till the AM then leaving for the lake again. Its called vacation!

I did just cut the new .404 chain for the 33" bar on the 6000 though.....

I've been off here so long I missed you got a 6000 :rock:
 
Please forgive me for asking the obvious question....................but are you sure your compression gauge is accurate? That's a lotta saws to all come up with 80# of compression. Have you pulled the mufflers and looked at the P/C's?

Yeah, I don't know how many saws I've picked up at the 'markets and I've had maybe one or two with low compression. I hardly remember to even check them anymore. Sometimes if I think of it I'll pull the rope a little..
 
I've been off here so long I missed you got a 6000 :rock:

Yes you have been gone a while. I figured maybe that the boys saw was better so you had to hide out from us for a while.

And yes I got a really slick 6000 a while back with the help from a member here.

I just put this 33" nos .404 bar on it this morning.

attachment.php


attachment.php
 
I haven't had very much luck with the ones I've gotten. Even though, they look to be in great shape, clean gas tanks, and good fuel lines, all of them have compression readings around 80#. They'll start, and run, just fine.....just can't do any cutting with them.....This has been the case with 2- 3400s, 2- 245As, 3 or 4 306s, and a 3800. All had compression readings around 80#.......Just went to check out 2 more 3400s, and they, too, had about 80# compression:msp_mad:

Sounds like you may have a bad gauge or your checking procedure is off. It's odd they would all be around 80 unless maybe your gauge is stuck at 80. If you have a good saw around there you might check the compression on it with that gauge. Also, does it feel like they have compression when you pull the rope?
 
Please forgive me for asking the obvious question....................but are you sure your compression gauge is accurate? That's a lotta saws to all come up with 80# of compression. Have you pulled the mufflers and looked at the P/C's?

Yeah, I thought it was funny, too, and that maybe the gauge wouldn't go past the 80# mark. So I hooked it to my air compressor, and it shot right up to 140#, so I know it wasn't stuck. I've only used in on autos, before, and it worked fine.
 
Sounds like you may have a bad gauge or your checking procedure is off. It's odd they would all be around 80 unless maybe your gauge is stuck at 80. If you have a good saw around there you might check the compression on it with that gauge. Also, does it feel like they have compression when you pull the rope?


Yes, they surely felt like they had compression, when I yanked on 'em. Started right up, after a couple pulls.
 
Sounds like you may have a bad gauge or your checking procedure is off. It's odd they would all be around 80 unless maybe your gauge is stuck at 80. If you have a good saw around there you might check the compression on it with that gauge. Also, does it feel like they have compression when you pull the rope?


Checking procedure is like this......Pull plug, install compression tester, pull rope until the needle quits rising. Same procedure as on cars, except for the rope pulling part.....
 
Im working on this poulan/dayton saw. Im putting a carb kit on it and i was told it needed a walbro k10 kit. So i ordered it and everything is way to small to fit in this carb

77.jpg


I know its a walbro, but what kit would work? Even my k20 kit had nothing for it.
 
HEY!!!!

I'm workin' this corner..............................go find your own!!!LOL


Mike

Workin it pretty hard I must add! :msp_thumbup:

I wish things were as "innocent" out here as they are in Ky (for my girls' sake). "Working this corner" means something entirely different here than what I bet you have in mind Mike...:D

Yeah, I don't know how many saws I've picked up at the 'markets and I've had maybe one or two with low compression. I hardly remember to even check them anymore. Sometimes if I think of it I'll pull the rope a little..

The low compression, scored P/C thing goes in cycles for me. I've gotten several used saws with good P/C's.........yet have had a few runs of smoked saws. I got a batch of five freebee saws offa CL a while back. Four outa five had roached P/C's. The fith was a damn mini-mac that I had to take with the rest. It has a good P/C...........along with all of the usual mini-mac evilness. I did swipe the starter handle off of it for a Mac 10-10A that I recently picked up at a yard sale (with a good P/C)...

Im working on this poulan/dayton saw. Im putting a carb kit on it and i was told it needed a walbro k10 kit. So i ordered it and everything is way to small to fit in this carb

77.jpg


I know its a walbro, but what kit would work? Even my k20 kit had nothing for it.

You do know that Walbro uses "K10" as a prefix for the kits used in seveal different carbs right? The Homelite 750 I'm working on now has a Walbro WB carb. Takes a K10-WB kit. The Walbro WJ, WY, HDC, HDB, SDC, and WS carbs all take kits that start with "K10", but END with the letters of that carb series (such as K10-SDC). Some WA/WT Walbros take a K10-WAT, while others take a K20-WAT. Tillotson changes the kit number for each series (such as RK-23HS for HS carbs and RK-14HU for HU carbs). Walbro doesn't. I'm thinking you have a larger Walbro carb (such as an SDC or HDB), and are trying to use parts from K10-WAT and K20-WAT kits...
 
Last edited:
Im working on this poulan/dayton saw. Im putting a carb kit on it and i was told it needed a walbro k10 kit. So i ordered it and everything is way to small to fit in this carb

77.jpg


I know its a walbro, but what kit would work? Even my k20 kit had nothing for it.

The number should be stamped into the side of the carb. Should be WT XX or WA XX or HDB X etc. With that number, you can get the correct kit from any local supplier...
 
The number should be stamped into the side of the carb. Should be WT XX or WA XX or HDB X etc. With that number, you can get the correct kit from any local supplier...

Wow cant believe i did that. Thanks for the help, i believe the carb is a HDB. Thanks again.
 
Checking procedure is like this......Pull plug, install compression tester, pull rope until the needle quits rising. Same procedure as on cars, except for the rope pulling part.....

Make sure your compression gauge is the correct type for small engines and has a Schrader valve installed in the end of it. Looks like the valve in the end of a tire valve stem.
 
Checking procedure is like this......Pull plug, install compression tester, pull rope until the needle quits rising. Same procedure as on cars, except for the rope pulling part.....

On car engines you're supposed to hold throttle open when checking, not sure if that applies to chainsaw engines or not. You might try it and see if there's any difference.
 
On car engines you're supposed to hold throttle open when checking, not sure if that applies to chainsaw engines or not. You might try it and see if there's any difference.

No differance at all. I've tried both ways and numbers are the same. If all his saws are at 80lbs. there is a problem with his gauge, gotta be!
 
Back
Top