Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

Looks like the same guy wants both the 5200 and 4000 on Ebay. Bidding prices way up in my opinion.

Bob

Bob, that 5200 is the same one that was listed on C/L out in AZ. It sold the day before I called and tried to buy it. It was alot less $ then.

Your opinion is duly noted, but who is to say what there worth? They look like nice original examples. I know how much time and money is involved to get a rough one into that condition so I myself am not thinking there too much yet.


Someone is pushing him to that much money so it's not just one bidder.

Stay cool down in TX, I'm heading back to the lake this morning! :msp_thumbup:

 

[briantutt]

Yes you have been gone a while. I figured maybe that the boys saw was better so you had to hide out from us for a while.

And yes I got a really slick 6000 a while back with the help from a member here.

I just put this 33" nos .404 bar on it this morning.

I am super jealous. I hope I can come across one of those or a 2100CD. They just look mean with that full wrap. You are pretty much right about the needing to hide thing. Those 330's put my "saw account" in the negative. Need to dig my way out before I move to another one. Hanging on AS makes you broke!

 

[OhioGregg]

Looks like the same guy wants both the 5200 and 4000 on Ebay. Bidding prices way up in my opinion.

Bob

Its actually a welcome sign, that these saws are starting to bring more to what they are worth in my opinion. I fear the days of buying cheap, good old Poulans is passing though. Unless they are in rough shape of course. But even then, they too are bringing more, just for the spare parts they contain.

Its funny that one of the last 4000's I bought, I paid $90+ shipping for. The most I ever paid for one. Its in absolutely top condition too. Best one I have come across to date. But I think it would take somewhere well north of $200, maybe even close to $300 to make me part with it. I think some folks forget what these things sold for new. They were not cheap saws. They work just as well as a new 64cc saw does in my opinion. Some will complain about the weight!!! I know. My answer is to eat more meat & potatos, and wash it down with a cold Miller High Life, and get to work! I think a lot of guys are turning into "girly men" these days.


Gregg,

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hanging on AS makes you broke!

Your not kidding me one bit!

I hated to let the 1100CD go but it helped pay for the 6000 if you know what I mean. I figured its much easier to find another 1100/2100 then another 6000 in this condition. So for now I'm keeping a eye out for a good 2100 as well but I'll pass it to you first since you have been looking for some time already.

Its actually a welcome sign, that these saws are starting to bring more to what they are worth in my opinion. I fear the days of buying cheap, good old Poulans is passing though. Unless they are in rough shape of course. But even then, they too are bringing more, just for the spare parts they contain.

Its funny that one of the last 4000's I bought, I paid $90+ shipping for. The most I ever paid for one. Its in absolutely top condition too. Best one I have come across to date. But I think it would take somewhere well north of $200, maybe even close to $300 to make me part with it. I think some folks forget what these things sold for new. They were not cheap saws. They work just as well as a new 64cc saw does in my opinion. Some will complain about the weight!!! I know. My answer is to eat more meat & potatos, and wash it down with a cold Miller High Life, and get to work! I think a lot of guys are turning into "girly men" these days.


Gregg,

I pretty much agree with all you posted Gregg, especially the meat, potatoes and Miller High Life part! :hmm3grin2orange:

Thing is I'm not much on a 65cc saw myself as most modern ones are as heavy as there 70-75cc bigger brothers on a large chassis.

The 4000 to me is quite different as its on a mid sized chassis and in its day it was pretty darn light for 65cc compared to the Macs, Homelites, Echos, Stihls etc.

Even today at right at 14lbs its not too bad for power to weight.

 

[hemiyota]

Make sure your compression gauge is the correct type for small engines and has a Schrader valve installed in the end of it. Looks like the valve in the end of a tire valve stem.

Here's a picture of my tester. It DOES have the Schrader valve. I used it on the saw that I currently use, cutting wood, and came up with 75#. SOOOOOOOOOOOO I took the saw over to a friends, and used his compression tester, that was similar to mine but made by K-D (mine's a Craftsman). Got 90#. SOOOOOOO I took a gauge off of one of the hand held jobs he had there, and put it on mine, and got about 85#. Took the gauge back off of mine, and put it back on the hand held one, and tried it.. Got 120# that way. So, it's not the gauge, it must be something in the hose assembly, itself.
What type testers do you guys use? I'll be shopping for another one!!:bang:

<dl><dt style="width: 290px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG.php"><img src="http://img2.claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

 

[Warped5]

Don't flame me for pointing out an obvious question, but ...

... are you pulling the recoil as many times as you need to until the needle stops moving? :help:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Here's a picture of my tester. It DOES have the Schrader valve. I used it on the saw that I currently use, cutting wood, and came up with 75#. SOOOOOOOOOOOO I took the saw over to a friends, and used his compression tester, that was similar to mine but made by K-D (mine's a Craftsman). Got 90#. SOOOOOOO I took a gauge off of one of the hand held jobs he had there, and put it on mine, and got about 85#. Took the gauge back off of mine, and put it back on the hand held one, and tried it.. Got 120# that way. So, it's not the gauge, it must be something in the hose assembly, itself.
What type testers do you guys use? I'll be shopping for another one!!:bang:

<dl><dt style="width: 290px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG.php"><img src="http://img2.claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

I can usually tell just by pulling on the rope if it has enough to be usable. I'm not really gonna tear one of these old saws down just because it has 3 or 4 psi less than the book says it should have. I have one saw right now that is marginal on compression because I checked it against a known good one of the same type. I think it gives me less to worry about not knowing whether it's 98psi or 110.
I have an old compression tester that I've had for years but I haven't a clue what brand it is.

 

[67L36Driver]

... are you pulling the recoil as many times as you need to until the needle stops moving? :help:

I find that most times it is six and I go to eight just to be shure. Takes quite a few just to fill up the hose volume.

 

[Eccentric]

Here's a picture of my tester. It DOES have the Schrader valve. I used it on the saw that I currently use, cutting wood, and came up with 75#. SOOOOOOOOOOOO I took the saw over to a friends, and used his compression tester, that was similar to mine but made by K-D (mine's a Craftsman). Got 90#. SOOOOOOO I took a gauge off of one of the hand held jobs he had there, and put it on mine, and got about 85#. Took the gauge back off of mine, and put it back on the hand held one, and tried it.. Got 120# that way. So, it's not the gauge, it must be something in the hose assembly, itself.
What type testers do you guys use? I'll be shopping for another one!!:bang:

OK.............$25 plus shipping for one of those 245A's...

 

[hemiyota]

... are you pulling the recoil as many times as you need to until the needle stops moving? :help:

Yes, sometimes 10-15 times....just to be sure.

 

[hemiyota]

I can usually tell just by pulling on the rope if it has enough to be usable. I'm not really gonna tear one of these old saws down just because it has 3 or 4 psi less than the book says it should have. I have one saw right now that is marginal on compression because I checked it against a known good one of the same type. I think it gives me less to worry about not knowing whether it's 98psi or 110.
I have an old compression tester that I've had for years but I haven't a clue what brand it is.

Yes, a couple of the saws felt REALLY good, but when I checked the reading I figured that the gauge was more accurate than feel....guess I was wrong about that. A couple of pounds wouldn't have bothered me a bit, but when most folks, here, say they get around 140#, I figured that was quite a bit of difference, and was ring time.

 

[hemiyota]

OK.............$25 plus shipping for one of those 245A's...

And, I wouldn't have sold them, even if they DID need rings. I'd have cleaned them up, painted them and put them on the shelf, with my others, to look at. I like having things that the majority of the people don't like. "What the hell you want with a Poulan?" That's all they say, now. That was the way it was, back in the 70s, when no one was INTO MoPars. They all had their Camaros and Mustangs and I had my 70 and 71 Cudas, 68 Hemi GTX, 67 Coronet R/T hemi, and 69 Cuda. Then having a MoPar became COOL and it became impossible to fix them up, anymore, without taking out a second mortgage. Takes all the fun out of it.

 

[8433jeff]

Here's a picture of my tester. It DOES have the Schrader valve. I used it on the saw that I currently use, cutting wood, and came up with 75#. SOOOOOOOOOOOO I took the saw over to a friends, and used his compression tester, that was similar to mine but made by K-D (mine's a Craftsman). Got 90#. SOOOOOOO I took a gauge off of one of the hand held jobs he had there, and put it on mine, and got about 85#. Took the gauge back off of mine, and put it back on the hand held one, and tried it.. Got 120# that way. So, it's not the gauge, it must be something in the hose assembly, itself.
What type testers do you guys use? I'll be shopping for another one!!:bang:

<dl><dt style="width: 290px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG.php"><img src="http://img2.claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

I have a very similar one and the flex hose before the coupler always reads 10-25 lbs less than the cast adapter that screws in the spark plug hole.

 

[rms61moparman]

Here's a picture of my tester. It DOES have the Schrader valve. I used it on the saw that I currently use, cutting wood, and came up with 75#. SOOOOOOOOOOOO I took the saw over to a friends, and used his compression tester, that was similar to mine but made by K-D (mine's a Craftsman). Got 90#. SOOOOOOO I took a gauge off of one of the hand held jobs he had there, and put it on mine, and got about 85#. Took the gauge back off of mine, and put it back on the hand held one, and tried it.. Got 120# that way. So, it's not the gauge, it must be something in the hose assembly, itself.
What type testers do you guys use? I'll be shopping for another one!!:bang:

<dl><dt style="width: 290px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG.php"><img src="http://img2.claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

That gauge isn't worth a tinkers dam for small engines.
The hose will absorb all of your compression.
If your fitting was at the end of the hose that is attached to your gauge, I'll bet the readings will be substantially higher on the same saws.
You can still use it for your personal use but you are going to have to put it on a saw with known compression to get a baseline and adjust your result from there.
For instance, my 5.2 Craftsman has shown 165+ on at least 3 different gauges.
If we put it on your gauge and it showed 100# you would know to add 60+ lbs to your gauges reading.
The reading is only a number and you shouldn't get too twisted with the number itself.
I have two gauges and both are really cheap. One will read about 10-12 lbs. higher than the other consistently.
The gauge with the lower reading is usually closer to the high priced gauges.



Mike

 

[blackoak]

Bob, that 5200 is the same one that was listed on C/L out in AZ. It sold the day before I called and tried to buy it. It was alot less $ then.

Your opinion is duly noted, but who is to say what there worth? They look like nice original examples. I know how much time and money is involved to get a rough one into that condition so I myself am not thinking there too much yet.


Someone is pushing him to that much money so it's not just one bidder.

Stay cool down in TX, I'm heading back to the lake this morning! :msp_thumbup:

Yes Mark, but that 5200 on Ebay now is a rare 4 stroke model. LOL

 

[PLMCRZY]

Hey guys little update on this dayton i have. Im almost done putting it together, but it seems its low on compression.

It doesnt pass the pull start test....cylinder and piston look fine on both sides. Could i just need new rings? I really dont know what size poulan/dayton it is though. I know it has 2 rings instead of one.

 

[redunshee]

Here's a picture of my tester. It DOES have the Schrader valve. I used it on the saw that I currently use, cutting wood, and came up with 75#. SOOOOOOOOOOOO I took the saw over to a friends, and used his compression tester, that was similar to mine but made by K-D (mine's a Craftsman). Got 90#. SOOOOOOO I took a gauge off of one of the hand held jobs he had there, and put it on mine, and got about 85#. Took the gauge back off of mine, and put it back on the hand held one, and tried it.. Got 120# that way. So, it's not the gauge, it must be something in the hose assembly, itself.
What type testers do you guys use? I'll be shopping for another one!!:bang:

<dl><dt style="width: 290px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG.php"><img src="http://img2.claspics.com/136/789489/1310492667-680.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

Mac Tools

 

[redunshee]

Yes Mark, but that 5200 on Ebay now is a rare 4 stroke model. LOL

Yea, Mark, the 4000 is also getting up there in price. We've had 11 straight days over 100 and no relief in sight. Too hot to work on saws. Have fun at the lake and stay cool.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Hey guys little update on this dayton i have. Im almost done putting it together, but it seems its low on compression.

It doesnt pass the pull start test....cylinder and piston look fine on both sides. Could i just need new rings? I really dont know what size poulan/dayton it is though. I know it has 2 rings instead of one.

Maybe, maybe not. If its a Poulan 3400 clone you won't as a rule get very high compression. 140 would be excellent and I've had some that ran great at 120. I assume because the saw has an HDB carb it might be a 3400. Big assumption , I know. Try to start and run saw. If it does run you're all set.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yes Mark, but that 5200 on Ebay now is a rare 4 stroke model. LOL

I seen that.

You never know whats going to happen on ebay.