Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

They aren't all 42cc I have some 36 or 38cc pistons and jugs here. I think they used what was coming down the line at the time.

Randy, I don't doubt you but if you had to replace your P&C, you would currently end up with a 42cc saw. Like I said at the outset, currently all 3314's, thru 4218 use the same part numbers for the piston, cylinder and crank. Go figure.
Bob

 

[mauserman028]

saw shop find 361 for 80$$ ????

i went to the sawshop there setting was poulan 361 in nice shape not been used much i can get it for 80 dollers i am thinking about going back and getting it ???

 

[Mastermind]

Randy, I don't doubt you but if you had to replace your P&C, you would currently end up with a 42cc saw. Like I said at the outset, currently all 3314's, thru 4218 use the same part numbers for the piston, cylinder and crank. Go figure.
Bob

I understand what you are saying now.

I'm not sure about the 3314, but the 4218 is a strato saw isn't it?

 

[tbone75]

I understand what you are saying now.

I'm not sure about the 3314, but the 4218 is a strato saw isn't it?

Yep all them are.I don't think anything interchanges with the older ones?May be just a few parts?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

i went to the sawshop there setting was poulan 361 in nice shape not been used much i can get it for 80 dollers i am thinking about going back and getting it ???

if you snooze you lose

 

[Modifiedmark]

I hate to just pop in here, but I promised my friend Jim I'd post this picture, not too many of these floating about...


Mark

No there are not that many of those around. does Jim know what it is ? Does he have the rest of it ? That appears to be a early Poulan 100 blade saw.

 

[tbone75]

i went to the sawshop there setting was poulan 361 in nice shape not been used much i can get it for 80 dollers i am thinking about going back and getting it ???

Better grab that why you can!If you don't like it someone here would be glad to take it off your hands?Not me at this moment LOL Bought 5 other brands in the past week LOL

 

[rms61moparman]

i went to the sawshop there setting was poulan 361 in nice shape not been used much i can get it for 80 dollers i am thinking about going back and getting it ???

$80.00 would be on the high end for a 361 for me.
It would have to be in pristine shape.


Mike

 

[92iron]

Poulan Timbermaster 3800

Does anyone know the maximum RPM setting on the poulan 3800 saw?I am having trouble finding specs on this saw.Any information would be greatly appreciated.Thank You

 

[redunshee]

I understand what you are saying now.

I'm not sure about the 3314, but the 4218 is a strato saw isn't it?

They must all be based on part numbers

 

[redunshee]

Does anyone know the maximum RPM setting on the poulan 3800 saw?I am having trouble finding specs on this saw.Any information would be greatly appreciated.Thank You

I would set hi needle so it 4 strokes out of the cut. Don't have numbers but I'd guess it I Iwill I be less than 12000

 

[heimannm]

No there are not that many of those around. does Jim know what it is ? Does he have the rest of it ? That appears to be a early Poulan 100 blade saw.

I think he knows enough that he's not going to throw it away, or give it away for that matter.

When I talk with him again I'll find out if he's at all interested in selling it and if so, put the two of you in touch with one another.

Mark

 

[Modifiedmark]

I think he knows enough that he's not going to throw it away, or give it away for that matter.

When I talk with him again I'll find out if he's at all interested in selling it and if so, put the two of you in touch with one another.

Mark

Thanks Mark, but I'm not interested in it. I have one already wearing orange paint and Wright labels.

If thats all he has of it, and it is missing those drive parts, its basically worthless much to most people as the parts are very hard to come by for them.

 

[paulyb21]

PP4620AVX new to me

Hey guys are we back to chainsaws again? I don't post much but heres one.
Picked this little baby up on the weekend.

View attachment 194833
The seller was told by his local small engine guy that the seal was shot so it was no good...thats why he couldn't get it running after a carb overhaul...hmmm? I wonder.

First he nicked the fuel line so it was dribbling gas. I pulled the muffler, sorry forgot to take picture. Pristine condition. Almost like the intake side.
Pulled the carb and found that the "repair guy" didn't rebuild the carb correctly. Even found the carb cylinder side impulse gasket not installed but underneath the carb????
that goes here

View attachment 194834

It must have slipped down while he was re-installing....Very tight space to work on if the handles were not removed. Lots of room when they are, its only 4 screws to get the room. So no gas was being pumped.

Next I slotted the needles to fit my screw driver so I can adjust carb without the proper tool, re assembled with the fuel meter lever adjusted correctly (it was too low to even barely open...)

End result I have another nice running almost new poulan saw that was ear-marked for the junk pile, for next to nothing but my time. All due to reading the helpful advice on this site. Thanks to all those helpful contributors. Love the site. (I am partial to the poulan and pioneer threads)

Paul B
I wonder how he tested to diagnose a defective seal?; from what I found, I wonder... maybe a crystal ball?...but my good luck.
Yes the muffler will be opened up next to breath better
No comment on the tool-less adjuster until I actually have a chance to see it not perform

 

[blackoak]

I think he knows enough that he's not going to throw it away, or give it away for that matter.

When I talk with him again I'll find out if he's at all interested in selling it and if so, put the two of you in touch with one another.

Mark

Mark you need to feed that guy some spinach. It may just be the way the picture was taken, but it looks to me like he's got the skinniest arm that I have ever seen on a human.:msp_biggrin:

 

[Chris-PA]

I pulled the muffler, sorry forgot to take picture. Pristine condition..... Yes the muffler will be opened up next to breath better.... No comment on the tool-less adjuster until I actually have a chance to see it not perform

Take a picture of the muffler on it - my 2775 is basically a 2001 version of the same saw, and the stock outlet is actually quite large. I suspect yours may be a cat, in which case maybe you just want to get a simple muffler for it.

Also, let us know how the adjuster works - mine doesn't have that (thankfully), and I would not want to recommend the saw if it doesn't work well.

Also, what bar and chain are on it? Mine is 20" with Oregon 33SL. I may not have it sharpened properly, but not for lack of trying. I don't like it and find it cuts very slow, so I'm looking to change it (maybe Stihl 23RMC).

 

[Big Dan]

A 46cc saw will cut a whole lot better with a 16" B&C, they just don't have the oomph to pull a 20 incher. I only run a 18" on 60cc saws. Just my 2 cents worth. Dan

 

[a. palmer jr.]

A 46cc saw will cut a whole lot better with a 16" B&C, they just don't have the oomph to pull a 20 incher. I only run a 18" on 60cc saws. Just my 2 cents worth. Dan

I think it depends on the kind of chains you're using. With the good chain you might be correct but some of the chains that come in here you could put a 42" bar on a micro! I'm talking about some of the so-called "safety chain". I had a 20" bar on a saw similar to a Wild Thing, the chain was sharp but it didn't slow the saw down any when cutting but it wouldn't cut the wood very fast either.

 

[Chris-PA]

A 46cc saw will cut a whole lot better with a 16" B&C, they just don't have the oomph to pull a 20 incher. I only run a 18" on 60cc saws. Just my 2 cents worth. Dan

That's the conventional wisdom here - luckily I got to run mine with the 20" bar for a few years before I knew better:msp_rolleyes: If you are only cutting your own firewood or doing clean up on a property, sometimes you'll run into something that requires a bigger bar. Is it worth buying another bigger and more expensive saw when you can just go slower and cut it with the one you have? That's the same idea behind skip tooth chain. A few years ago I had about 4 big poplars that blew over in my woods. When they've been in the woods they grow perfectly straight like giant toothpicks, and these were at least 20". Of course it's soft, but I think I cut them all up with maybe two tanks, and it went through them like the butter they are.

I think it depends on the kind of chains you're using. With the good chain you might be correct but some of the chains that come in here you could put a 42" bar on a micro! I'm talking about some of the so-called "safety chain". I had a 20" bar on a saw similar to a Wild Thing, the chain was sharp but it didn't slow the saw down any when cutting but it wouldn't cut the wood very fast either.

This is the thing I'm playing with. I have the 3420 and it pulls the 20" bar just fine - cut dry ash full bar pretty fast. The 2775 is slow, but I don't feel that the engine is working hard. It has 33SL chain on it, and filing the rakers better helped a lot, but it's still slow. I dressed the chain again last night, paying extra attention to the bumper height, and we'll see how it does this weekend. If that doesn't do it I'll try a different chain.

I know there's nothing magic about this 46cc engine, but it does have a pretty big exhaust outlet and it does not feel that weak. I want to get a chain on it that actually has some bite and see how well it can pull it. My guess is that it will be more than adequate.

 

[Mastermind]

I remember well when a 50cc saw with a 18" bar was all I owned. I cut whatever was on the ground in front of me with it, sometimes double cutting because the bar was too short. I never thought about needing another saw. Until I found ArboristSite.