Nik's Poulan Thread

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Aw man... I was hoping to hear this thing run tonight... :msp_sad:

She's all scored to hell. WARNING: This pic will not be a reduced size... so it'll show very clearly what's scored up and how bad...

197770d1315176616-poulan-3100-cylinder-piston-jpg

As you can see, I will be lucky if the cylinder can be saved with acid and q-tips... piston is obviously toasted beyond repair.

Apparently, it automatically sizes pics... if you want to see the damage closer, click on the attachment link... you can zoom in on that pic.

Also, the culprit in causing all of this damage was the intake boot... when I separated the cylinder and the case, I was surprised that the intake boot was no longer attached to the cylinder...

It broke down and separated right at the clamp on the cylinder...

So... if anyone has some parts for this Poulan, let me know. I'm quite eager to get this one running... it looks like it would love a bigger top end, complete with porting...
 
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Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

As to the bow on that Craftsman, I can find no info on it existing that way and I have my doubts that Sears would have sold that saw that way in that time frame. This was in the era of new chainbrakes, control tip bars and safety chains. Anyone could have painted that bow gray.

DSS, there is a so called "foot" built into the lower front section of the clutch cover and if its missing then yes your saw will sit crooked.
 
Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

As to the bow on that Craftsman, I can find no info on it existing that way and I have my doubts that Sears would have sold that saw that way in that time frame. This was in the era of new chainbrakes, control tip bars and safety chains. Anyone could have painted that bow gray.

DSS, there is a so called "foot" built into the lower front section of the clutch cover and if its missing then yes your saw will sit crooked.

Glad to see ya back Mark!
 
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Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

As to the bow on that Craftsman, I can find no info on it existing that way and I have my doubts that Sears would have sold that saw that way in that time frame. This was in the era of new chainbrakes, control tip bars and safety chains. Anyone could have painted that bow gray.

DSS, there is a so called "foot" built into the lower front section of the clutch cover and if its missing then yes your saw will sit crooked.

The bucking spike on the craftsman is what made no sense to me. WHY would it even be there on a true bow saw?
 
Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

As to the bow on that Craftsman, I can find no info on it existing that way and I have my doubts that Sears would have sold that saw that way in that time frame. This was in the era of new chainbrakes, control tip bars and safety chains. Anyone could have painted that bow gray.

DSS, there is a so called "foot" built into the lower front section of the clutch cover and if its missing then yes your saw will sit crooked.

I am glad you are back. Tom
 
Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

I'd say "glad you're back", but now that you have figured out the "ignore" feature, it won't do much good...
 
Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

As to the bow on that Craftsman, I can find no info on it existing that way and I have my doubts that Sears would have sold that saw that way in that time frame. This was in the era of new chainbrakes, control tip bars and safety chains. Anyone could have painted that bow gray.

DSS, there is a so called "foot" built into the lower front section of the clutch cover and if its missing then yes your saw will sit crooked.

Hello my friend. Glad to see you posting. :msp_thumbsup:
 
It is real nice to have you back Mark.
My Poulans are on the back burner at the moment as I am building up some interesting Partners (my other love). But I love hanging out here with the Poulan boys.

Al.
 
CAD starting already

Been on here about a week, started off just trying to find a carb kit for my 245A. Got that coming, along with a PILE of spare parts and a complete (running) 306A. Got my eye on a few others as well but trying to wait till i get this stuff in my hands, lol.
 
Good point John, I didnt even notice that. It would seem to prove that the saw was not originally equipped with the bow would it not?

I think I may be able to shed some light on this. The bow was definitely not original, the original owner had an 18" b/c on it. The 2nd owner trimmed the clutch cover and installed the bow. The bow was originally Poulan green, you can see the green coming through the gray in spots. Hope this helps everyone sleep easier. :D
 
posted couple weeks ago concerning my "new" 2150PR Predator and PP4218AVX saws. i ordinarily wouldn't give the time of day to these saws but got a great deal on them and would like to get them going so i can maybe sell them (prolly won't though, find it real hard to let go of any saw once its in my hands).
cleaned out the carb on the 2150 and can get it to run at WOT but won't idle. i'm just gonna go ahead and ask the stupid question. when i took the carb apart i counted turns for the H and L settings so i could put it back the way it was. the L was set at 1-1/2 turns out; the H was set at 2-1/8 turns out. that seems rather excessive to me. also, not having any experience with newer saws, i was surprised to see the H and L screws are domed and splined rather then flat with slots. i'm guessing these prolly had some type of limiter cap on them? correct? so, my questions are?
1. since there are no caps, how have others' handled the adjustments? not really wanting to use plyers but don't have a dremel to cut slots with.
2. what are the correct, initial settings for the L and H screws?
3. what are the correct plugs for these saws?
thanks for any advice.
 
Been on here about a week, started off just trying to find a carb kit for my 245A. Got that coming, along with a PILE of spare parts and a complete (running) 306A. Got my eye on a few others as well but trying to wait till i get this stuff in my hands, lol.

Yep, incubation period for CAD is usually 5 to 7 days after finding this site. Only advice I can give you, is run now and never visit AS again or go out start building a bigger workshop.

Welcome to the Poulan group, brother.:msp_smile:

Al.
 
posted couple weeks ago concerning my "new" 2150PR Predator and PP4218AVX saws. i ordinarily wouldn't give the time of day to these saws but got a great deal on them and would like to get them going so i can maybe sell them (prolly won't though, find it real hard to let go of any saw once its in my hands).
cleaned out the carb on the 2150 and can get it to run at WOT but won't idle. i'm just gonna go ahead and ask the stupid question. when i took the carb apart i counted turns for the H and L settings so i could put it back the way it was. the L was set at 1-1/2 turns out; the H was set at 2-1/8 turns out. that seems rather excessive to me. also, not having any experience with newer saws, i was surprised to see the H and L screws are domed and splined rather then flat with slots. i'm guessing these prolly had some type of limiter cap on them? correct? so, my questions are?
1. since there are no caps, how have others' handled the adjustments? not really wanting to use plyers but don't have a dremel to cut slots with.
2. what are the correct, initial settings for the L and H screws?
3. what are the correct plugs for these saws?
thanks for any advice.



1) Go ahead and pony up the $10.00 for the right tool! You will thank me later.
Don't cut slots in the adj. needle heads, a little birdie told me you can NEVER adjust them while running if you do. Screwdriver just will NOT stay in the slot!!!
2) They should start with 1-1 and 1/4 off the seat
3) I just reach in my "plug jug" and pull one out! Never got too twisted over the number on it.


Mike
 
Hey guys, finally got rid of that burr in my saddle. Too bad I had to get it to begin with and hopefully it won't happen again. I did learn how to use the ignore feature here and maybe that will help. :msp_rolleyes:

As to the bow on that Craftsman, I can find no info on it existing that way and I have my doubts that Sears would have sold that saw that way in that time frame. This was in the era of new chainbrakes, control tip bars and safety chains. Anyone could have painted that bow gray.

DSS, there is a so called "foot" built into the lower front section of the clutch cover and if its missing then yes your saw will sit crooked.
'bout ####en time Mark, this place ain't the same without you.
 

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