Nik's Poulan Thread

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The gas tank is loose, wiggles a little on my 375. What secures it in place? I can't see anything from the flywheel side holding it in place. Saw runs good but this seems like something isn't right.

The tank on the 375, 395 and 3400-4000 saws isnt realy held by any fasteners. The ign. switch wire runs in a chanel thru it and it is a tight fit around the case and the switch. You have to remove the flywheel to take the tank out and I pull the wire and switch out too. Even then, it is hard to pull it out. It wiggles but it wont fall out.
If you have a leak check your fuel and vent line, then maybe the fuel cap.
 
The tank on the 375, 395 and 3400-4000 saws isnt realy held by any fasteners. The ign. switch wire runs in a chanel thru it and it is a tight fit around the case and the switch. You have to remove the flywheel to take the tank out and I pull the wire and switch out too. Even then, it is hard to pull it out. It wiggles but it wont fall out.
If you have a leak check your fuel and vent line, then maybe the fuel cap.

Thanks I've been messing with it and of course your right it just sets in there. After a little "fiddling" I think it's fine. Just needs a new vent line. Thanks for the assurance. The saw is cleaning up really nice considering what a trashed condition it seemed to be and so far seems to start and run good.
 
Thanks I've been messing with it and of course your right it just sets in there. After a little "fiddling" I think it's fine. Just needs a new vent line. Thanks for the assurance. The saw is cleaning up really nice considering what a trashed condition it seemed to be and so far seems to start and run good.

Do you have the fuel tank gasket that fits over the fuel opening? It might tighten it up a bit when you replace the recoil assembly.
 
Do you have the fuel tank gasket that fits over the fuel opening? It might tighten it up a bit when you replace the recoil assembly.

I'll have to check and see. Not sure. I know the air filter gasket was missing. So fuel tank gasket may be as well.
 
Poulan Pro 375 oiler

Saw is running good now so I'll check out the oiler, should I expect to run thin oil like in my 3400's or the typical bar oil that I use in more current saws?
 
Saw is running good now so I'll check out the oiler, should I expect to run thin oil like in my 3400's or the typical bar oil that I use in more current saws?

I haven't run into the problem the other guys have reported here with normal bar oil in my older poulans. When those saws were new, a lot of guys typically used 30 wt car oil. In fact..hmm..I don't think I even ever bought legitimate on the label "bar oil" until after the 2000s....just always used car oil. I *did* switch to air cooled mix oil though eventually, much better than using the same car oil for mix...but I cut a bunch, for a long time, just using car oil for both tanks.

BUT...thinking on it, I might try cutting my generic TSC oil just a little, to see if it improves flow any. It's already acceptable, but if it takes a load off the oiler components and still works in the cut, I am adaptable and willing to try something different.
 
I haven't run into the problem the other guys have reported here with normal bar oil in my older poulans. When those saws were new, a lot of guys typically used 30 wt car oil. In fact..hmm..I don't think I even ever bought legitimate on the label "bar oil" until after the 2000s....just always used car oil. I *did* switch to air cooled mix oil though eventually, much better than using the same car oil for mix...but I cut a bunch, for a long time, just using car oil for both tanks.

BUT...thinking on it, I might try cutting my generic TSC oil just a little, to see if it improves flow any. It's already acceptable, but if it takes a load off the oiler components and still works in the cut, I am adaptable and willing to try something different.

Yep, what i thought.
 
second 8500? .....:cool2: :bowdown: Do you still have them both or is this a replacement for a saw that is gone down the road? I like the big dawgs and the full wrap.

I actually have 3 but only 2 are in the running category. This is the pic of the 3 8500's and a 5400 when I got them.

Photo0193.jpg
 
I just checked out that Craftsman 3.7 on the bay again. I don't think it is the same guy that was trying to feel out how $$uper valuable his saw was. Unless he used it a bunch and abused it when doing so. The bar and clutch side of the one on the bay is pretty beat up.

Nick
 
can someone direct me to where I can find info on doing a muffler mod on a P3314? as I would like to know how to gut it without cutting it open if possible. thank you
 
I don't personally know since I haven't used/seen a 3314 up close, but if you post a couple pics of the muffler, I'm sure I could help guide you on your way.

Nick
 
can someone direct me to where I can find info on doing a muffler mod on a P3314? as I would like to know how to gut it without cutting it open if possible. thank you

Hey racer1970, so you don't spin your wheels and get yourself stuck try going up to the top of the page and click on 'advanced search' and then use member 'HarleyScooter' '3314' it's a good thread.
 
Yes I have Bob.

The problem is, the port will flow everything the intake manifold will.
I always massage the manifold but there is just so much you can do with it.
I have thought of making a custom one but haven't done it yet.


Mike

Mike , after reading your post I decided to look at the manifold and intake port of the cylinder. I agree that the manifold seems to be restricting fuelflow as opposed to the intake port. I therefore did a little grinding on it as shown in the pics. Still need to remove some scratches. I'm not sure I accomplished anything by opening it up but I figured it couldn't hurt. Soon as my new rings arrive I'll reassemble the saw and see how it runs. Not sure I have anything to compare it to as its been months since I ran the saw. I'll just have to go by feel I guess.
If the pictures don't open in the postView attachment 229409View attachment 229408, I goofed again.
Bob
 
3400 Clutch Cover

Will a clutch cover from a 3700, 3800, 4000, 4200 work on a 3400? Anyone want to sell me one?


I bought a chain grinder the other day, got my chain sharpened, then went to put it back on the saw and realized my clutch cover is cracked and it lost the chain tensioning screw! I couldn't cut with the chain I had just sharpened, oh well.

Thanks!
 
Will a clutch cover from a 3700, 3800, 4000, 4200 work on a 3400? Anyone want to sell me one?


I bought a chain grinder the other day, got my chain sharpened, then went to put it back on the saw and realized my clutch cover is cracked and it lost the chain tensioning screw! I couldn't cut with the chain I had just sharpened, oh well.

Thanks!



Not the 4200!
The others will interchange but there are two different sizes.


Mike
 
Mike , after reading your post I decided to look at the manifold and intake port of the cylinder. I agree that the manifold seems to be restricting fuelflow as opposed to the intake port. I therefore did a little grinding on it as shown in the pics. Still need to remove some scratches. I'm not sure I accomplished anything by opening it up but I figured it couldn't hurt. Soon as my new rings arrive I'll reassemble the saw and see how it runs. Not sure I have anything to compare it to as its been months since I ran the saw. I'll just have to go by feel I guess.
If the pictures don't open in the postView attachment 229409View attachment 229408, I goofed again.
Bob



Bob,

That is exactly how I do mine ..............on that side!
Did you do anything to the other?
There isn't much room but I think it helps to open them that .020 more.
It makes me feel better at least!!!!LOL


Mike
 
Bob,

That is exactly how I do mine ..............on that side!
Did you do anything to the other?
There isn't much room but I think it helps to open them that .020 more.
It makes me feel better at least!!!!LOL


Mike

I opened the carb side a bit. May work on it a little more using my dremel and barrel sanding bit.
Bob
 
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