Nik's Poulan Thread

[67 Mustang]

Hi Steve !!! How ya been? Havn't seen ya in here for some time. Been buying up more great old Poulans have ya? I still drool over that 7700 of yours. LOL That is about the sweetest Poulan I have ever run!


Gregg,

Been so busy buyin' up all the big Poulan's, didn't have time to post much, Gregg. Don't want you guys up in Ohio to get 'em all. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[XPLRN]

This is the duckbill valve, last i new was still available from Poulan.

Gregg,

It all makes perfect sense now.............ordered!! Thanks for the illustrative picture!! :msp_thumbup:

 

[Modifiedmark]

You know your filters..........can I use the one I bought at the lawn and garden shop where I sourced my Tygon or is there something "special" about the 5200 filter?? I realize that the factory filter is weighted and haven't done a weight comparison of the two..........yet. Just curious what the filter I.D. give away was!?? That Homelite fuel tank was a mess but the filter sure didn't look near as bad and the 5200 one.


There is something "special" about an original 5200 filter.
They have a check valve in them to keep the fuel from draining back down into the tank.
Most of the replacements don't have that feature and that is why it takes several pulls to draw fuel to the carb on a cold start.
The check valve filters are almost non-existant now to my knowledge, that is why I work diligently to save one if at all possible!!!
They really do work and work well.


Mike

Yes of course your right and I just want to add for XPLRN that the new felts for that original 5200 fuel filter are still availiable. Any small engine shop should have them and if not they can be ordered from Oregon. (there also still availible for the smaller bodys like used on the S25's and 3400's)

The Oregon part # for those larger felts is 07-202, the Poulan # is 530034032, the Homelite # is 59253 and the Tillotson # is 95-172.

XPLRN, since the fuel fittings I used are still not easy to find yet, (waiting to hear back from Karl on the ones he's making) your best bet is to just use a 3/16ID X 5/16OD tygon fuel line. There a ##### to pull through the original hole, use a fine wire and pleanty of WD-40 to lube it up well. It will fit if you use patiance, but its still a little stiff in the tank to flop around like I would like to see it but it will work for now. Try to use the original fuel filter body if you can.


These guys also have you on the right track for the duckbill valve you need. Get 2 of them as the 4000 uses the same one. While your at it, do not wait, put new fuel lines on the 4000 right away also. No need to chance a old line cracking and leaning out the saw to point of meltdown.

You found the thread I done on the fuel line installation? Its easy to do on them.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Been so busy buyin' up all the big Poulan's, didn't have time to post much, Gregg. Don't want you guys up in Ohio to get 'em all. :hmm3grin2orange:

Yeah right, :hmm3grin2orange:

No pictures? That means it didnt happen. :msp_tongue:

 

[OhioGregg]

Been so busy buyin' up all the big Poulan's, didn't have time to post much, Gregg. Don't want you guys up in Ohio to get 'em all. :hmm3grin2orange:

Well, I can tell ya the BIG Poulans weren't plentiful in these parts. To many "tight" old German farmers around here. LOL Seems the bigguns have to come from the south. I got my 5200 from Ga. Its hard to get them this far north, some of you yahoos in NC. seem to snag them all!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

Like Mark said, Post some pictures if ya got em. Seems to me I remember seeing a video about a year ago or so of you running a 8500, I don't recall seeing pics of.:msp_ohmy:


Gregg,

 

[Islero]

Need Manual For Poulan Pro 4218 AVX

Can any one tell me where I can get a manual to rebuild a Poulan Pro 4218 AVX? I am told by the Stihl dealer that my 6 month old poulan saw is burnt out and is useless. He also tried to sell me a new MS250, however, I would like to try to rebuild my saw first. I have never repaired a chainsaw, as such, would you tell me if it is impossible for a newbee to accomplish? I believe I have the tools necessary, but would appreciate any pointers and advice that you professionals may be willing to share with a novice. Thank you, Islero :smile2:

 

[zogger]

Can any one tell me where I can get a manual to rebuild a Poulan Pro 4218 AVX? I am told by the Stihl dealer that my 6 month old poulan saw is burnt out and is useless. He also tried to sell me a new MS250, however, I would like to try to rebuild my saw first. I have never repaired a chainsaw, as such, would you tell me if it is impossible for a newbee to accomplish? I believe I have the tools necessary, but would appreciate any pointers and advice that you professionals may be willing to share with a novice. Thank you, Islero :smile2:

Most likely cheaper (and easier for you) to just look for a used similar runner to buy. then you'll have spare parts and an extra bar and chain.

Rebuilding is involved and would cover more than even one long post. The various aspects are all covered on this site in hundreds of threads, but I don't think there is any one step by step by step thread. As to a factory shop manual, well, good luck, there's the beg for manuals thread in the stickies.

How did you saw get burnt up, running it too lean? Bad air filter, bad mix fuel, loose muffler, major air leaks someplace at the seals or case gasket or carb?

See, knowing those answers will help you to avoid it happening again.

so I think in your case, to get you back to cutting sooner, just find a used one (10-50 bucks), tune it correctly, then take your time and clean and tear down your old saw, spend a lot of time reading actual technical threads here, and you'll get the general hang of two stroke work.

I forget the poster, but if you start at the last post on the swap meet thread and scroll up, you'll find someone interested in moving some used cheap poulans. Might get a good enough to use one for real cheap plus some shipping.

If you want a decent powerful 50 cc class saw, there's a used poulan 3400 in the classifieds here for one hundred bucks asking price. They are good, old, but good pro quality saws, man.

 

[Eccentric]

Poulan XXV Line Size Confusion.

Mark I just refered back to a few of your XXV fuel line replacement tutorial threads, and some of your responses in other folks XXV threads. You've recomended three different fuel line sizes over the last three years or so. Which one have you settled on as the best for these saws? Not trying to nitpick or anything else silly like that. Just trying to figure out what's "the best" line to get for these saws. Hoping it's 3/32"-3/16" as that's what a lotta Homelites take (as well as the Poulan Micros).


.117"ID/.211"OD

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/91227.htm

3/8"ID-3/16"OD

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/156736.htm

3/32"ID-3/16"OD

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/136342-2.htm#post2226714
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/136342-2.htm#post2227296


3/32"ID-3/16"OD for Micros

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm

While I'm overthinking things..........I've noticed that retailers often have a few different listings for identical ID/OD/length lines. Are there different types/formulations of fuel line from Oregon and Tygon now? The links below will take you to index pages of Oregon and Tygon lines. Find a particular ID/OD/Length (say 1/8"-1/4"/25') and you'll see that there are two or three listings for each............with NO explanations or differences in descriptions. Just different stock numbers and sometimes "OEM" numbers. Any insight?

Products Comparison List - MFG Supply | MFG Supply

Search results for: 'tygon' | MFG Supply
Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks for all the info!!

Yes of course your right and I just want to add for XPLRN that the new felts for that original 5200 fuel filter are still availiable. Any small engine shop should have them and if not they can be ordered from Oregon. (there also still availible for the smaller bodys like used on the S25's and 3400's)

The Oregon part # for those larger felts is 07-202, the Poulan # is 530034032, the Homelite # is 59253 and the Tillotson # is 95-172.

XPLRN, since the fuel fittings I used are still not easy to find yet, (waiting to hear back from Karl on the ones he's making) your best bet is to just use a 3/16ID X 5/16OD tygon fuel line. There a ##### to pull through the original hole, use a fine wire and pleanty of WD-40 to lube it up well. It will fit if you use patiance, but its still a little stiff in the tank to flop around like I would like to see it but it will work for now. Try to use the original fuel filter body if you can.


These guys also have you on the right track for the duckbill valve you need. Get 2 of them as the 4000 uses the same one. While your at it, do not wait, put new fuel lines on the 4000 right away also. No need to chance a old line cracking and leaning out the saw to point of meltdown.

You found the thread I done on the fuel line installation? Its easy to do on them.

I appreciate your taking the time to share your insight on part numbers, what will work in place of the fitting and the PM prompt on the 4000. :msp_thumbsup:

 

[Chris J.]

Does anyone know if these kits would work in some Poulan chainsaws (I'm not going to pretend to understand the ins & outs of Poulan fuel lines, duckbills, etc.)? I apologize if I'm foiling someones plans to snag the kits before the word gets out.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

[Chris J.]

Maybe if the price is negotiable (this Poulan 3400 bow saw is close to me).......

Poulan Gas Bow Saw/Chain Saw

 

[OhioGregg]

Maybe if the price is negotiable (this Poulan 3400 bow saw is close to me).......

Poulan Gas Bow Saw/Chain Saw

Looks to be in great condition for its age! Looks like an early 3400. Would be way out of my price range. But I suppose its worth what ever someone is willing and how bad ya want one.
I think if I was looking for a bow saw to actually use..I would want one a little more power, like 70cc+, preferably with gear drive. Sure does look nice though.


Gregg,

 

[BroncoRN]

Finished up the s25da today! New fuel lines did the trick as did the carb rebuild. Runs pretty good now at least for the few cuts i did. That is one cool little saw!!

 

[rms61moparman]

Can any one tell me where I can get a manual to rebuild a Poulan Pro 4218 AVX? I am told by the Stihl dealer that my 6 month old poulan saw is burnt out and is useless. He also tried to sell me a new MS250, however, I would like to try to rebuild my saw first. I have never repaired a chainsaw, as such, would you tell me if it is impossible for a newbee to accomplish? I believe I have the tools necessary, but would appreciate any pointers and advice that you professionals may be willing to share with a novice. Thank you, Islero :smile2:

If you are game enough to undertake this project, I am game enough to walk you through it.
Take the muffler off and snap a couple of pics of the piston and let's assess the damage.
It would probably be best to do this in P.M.'s and e-mails to keep from overloading the Poulan thread.
My name is Mike, shoot me a P.m. and we will get started!


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark I just refered back to a few of your XXV fuel line replacement tutorial threads, and some of your responses in other folks XXV threads. You've recomended three different fuel line sizes over the last three years or so. Which one have you settled on as the best for these saws? Not trying to nitpick or anything else silly like that. Just trying to figure out what's "the best" line to get for these saws. Hoping it's 3/32"-3/16" as that's what a lotta Homelites take (as well as the Poulan Micros).


.117"ID/.211"OD

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/91227.htm

3/8"ID-3/16"OD

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/156736.htm

3/32"ID-3/16"OD

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/136342-2.htm#post2226714
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/136342-2.htm#post2227296


3/32"ID-3/16"OD for Micros

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm

While I'm overthinking things..........I've noticed that retailers often have a few different listings for identical ID/OD/length lines. Are there different types/formulations of fuel line from Oregon and Tygon now? The links below will take you to index pages of Oregon and Tygon lines. Find a particular ID/OD/Length (say 1/8"-1/4"/25') and you'll see that there are two or three listings for each............with NO explanations or differences in descriptions. Just different stock numbers and sometimes "OEM" numbers. Any insight?

Products Comparison List - MFG Supply | MFG Supply

Search results for: 'tygon' | MFG Supply
Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

Aaron actually the 1/8 X 3/16 is the spec for all of them. I dont know why I used the .117x.211 except that it might have been all I had on hand at that time. It is not really right as its a paint to pull through but it will work.

I think I said before I prefer the 3/32 X 3/16 for the Micros as the 1/8"ID stuff kinks easier then the 3/32ID stuff dose and the 3/32 is fine on the S25's as well.

As for the .117x.211, where it works well is on the 3400 etc with the plastic tanks when there original holes are stretched out and wont hold the 3/16OD tight enough.

Sorry for the confusion.

As for the difference in lines, Tygon is only rated for 10% ethanol while the Oregon is rated to 30% ethanol.

The trade off is the new Oregon line is just a hair stiffer but will outlast the Tygon in ethanol situations.

Another thing is the Oregon company is a first class outfit with great customer service, at least in my experiance so I dont hesitate to support them by buying there products when possible. Up and down there line they have good stuff as well, top of the line for aftermarket as far as I have seen.

I just bought a set of Oregon blades for my Grasshopper mower and was more then impressed with them compared to other aftermarket blades.

 

[67 Mustang]

Yeah right, :hmm3grin2orange:

No pictures? That means it didnt happen. :msp_tongue:

Well, I can tell ya the BIG Poulans weren't plentiful in these parts. To many "tight" old German farmers around here. LOL Seems the bigguns have to come from the south. I got my 5200 from Ga. Its hard to get them this far north, some of you yahoos in NC. seem to snag them all!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

Like Mark said, Post some pictures if ya got em. Seems to me I remember seeing a video about a year ago or so of you running a 8500, I don't recall seeing pics of.:msp_ohmy:


Gregg,

Wasn't me with a 8500. I just got one recently and hope it's running come showtime. We've got a couple shows coming up in the next month. One is Louisburg, NC week after next and then the Halifax Heritage Festival in South Boston, VA the first weekend in May. Hopfully will have some vids up then.

 

[Islero]

If you are game enough to undertake this project, I am game enough to walk you through it.
Take the muffler off and snap a couple of pics of the piston and let's assess the damage.
It would probably be best to do this in P.M.'s and e-mails to keep from overloading the Poulan thread.
My name is Mike, shoot me a P.m. and we will get started!


Mike

Mike I have responded with a PM. God bless you, Ilene :msp_smile:

 

[jerrycmorrow]

If you are game enough to undertake this project, I am game enough to walk you through it.
Take the muffler off and snap a couple of pics of the piston and let's assess the damage.
It would probably be best to do this in P.M.'s and e-mails to keep from overloading the Poulan thread.
My name is Mike, shoot me a P.m. and we will get started!


Mike

Mike I have responded with a PM. God bless you, Ilene :msp_smile:

in light of the "no pix it didn't happen" adage i request you start a thread on this rebuild. could be interesting addition to the other instructional threads. just sayin'

 

[Chris J.]

Would anybody be interested in some new in the package Craftsman bars? I certainly wouldn't need 25 bars, and all I want to do is recoup some of my money* (especially if my wife finds out :msp_thumbdn: that I bought 25 chainsaw bars!).

New Chainsaw Bars


Here's part of the response I received from the seller, & hopefully I'll know more tomorrow:

"...The bars are in their original packaging & the charts indicate that they will fit many Poulan saws. There are a few 14", more 16" & 18" and some 20"."


* EDIT--I should've worded this differently, trade for needed parts such as carb kits, fuel line & oil line would actually be preferred.

 

[Kostas]

2775 check valve

I am working on my 2775 the last few days,modded the mufler,replace the oil pump,the lines etc but i want to order a few parts from ereplacements to complete the rebuild.The point is that when i was searching to the diagram of the 2775,i noticed something it called check valve.The fact is that when i rebiuld the saw,i didnt see anything like this.Searching the net i found that it's related with the oiling system.I had problems with my oiling system,that's why i replace the oil pump,and i am not sure if the check valve is responsible for something.Could someone tell me where is the check valve on my saw and what is its purpose?