Nik's Poulan Thread

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Very nice. I don't even have a saw that needs one but I still want one!

Get in now, you never know when a mint 5200 is going to drop into your arms.

Well done Mark and Karl, those little fittings are sweet.:msp_biggrin:

Al.
 
I just finished assembling the dead 3400 upgrade to 3800 P&C. Found one problem you guys might enlighten me on so I can figure how to proceed further.
The mains feel loose and I can now see what seems to be to much flex between the flywheel and mag coil.
Question is..what is the most likely failure mode. Do the ball bearing wear or do the cases egg out and fail to hold the bearings.
Hoping I can just put bearings and seals. It fired right up but I know I will have to go back in or scrap it.:angry:

thanks

I've never had to replace the crank bearings on my POulan 3400's -4000's though they do go bad, I guess. Take off flywheel and see if the crank has any radial(sideways) movement. If there is as you suggested, odds are the bearings are bad. You won't be able to determine if its the bearings or case unless you remove the seals. In order to replace the bearings you will have to split the case, but its not that difficult as I've done it a dozen times. If its the case, I'm sure I have one or you can find a parts saw on Ebay.
Bob
 
3400/3800 bad mains

I've never had to replace the crank bearings on my POulan 3400's -4000's though they do go bad, I guess. Take off flywheel and see if the crank has any radial(sideways) movement. If there is as you suggested, odds are the bearings are bad. You won't be able to determine if its the bearings or case unless you remove the seals. In order to replace the bearings you will have to split the case, but its not that difficult as I've done it a dozen times. If its the case, I'm sure I have one or you can find a parts saw on Ebay.
Bob

Thanks Bob
My evidence of slop was in setting the flywheel to magneto clearance with a business card. Once I pulled the business card out the flywheel magnet sucked up the crank to touch the mag. Well that's no good..:dizzy:..So with 2 business cards it stayed off the mag. and fired up. But that's garbage and I could wiggle it more than I originally had perceived. I notice they are imperial sized bearings 5/8 crank. both bearings and seals are NLA from poulan.
Normal R10 ABEC 3 bearings are good to 13K rpm any one know the OD?...1-3/8?hopefully

So far I bought new
bar 20"
chain
sprocket
gaskets
carb kit
filter the funky flocked screen one
filter seal-gasket
fuel lines
2 iso rubbers
rings
used P&C
It seems like it ought to be a decent saw but if the cases are bad I will probably shelf this project.
 
Thanks Bob
My evidence of slop was in setting the flywheel to magneto clearance with a business card. Once I pulled the business card out the flywheel magnet sucked up the crank to touch the mag. Well that's no good..:dizzy:..So with 2 business cards it stayed off the mag. and fired up. But that's garbage and I could wiggle it more than I originally had perceived. I notice they are imperial sized bearings 5/8 crank. both bearings and seals are NLA from poulan.
Normal R10 ABEC 3 bearings are good to 13K rpm any one know the OD?...1-3/8?hopefully

So far I bought new
bar 20"
chain
sprocket
gaskets
carb kit
filter the funky flocked screen one
filter seal-gasket
fuel lines
2 iso rubbers
rings
used P&C
It seems like it ought to be a decent saw but if the cases are bad I will probably shelf this project.

You should be able to scrounge up another 3400 readily enough, they appear to have been quite common back in the day.
 
Thanks Bob
My evidence of slop was in setting the flywheel to magneto clearance with a business card. Once I pulled the business card out the flywheel magnet sucked up the crank to touch the mag. Well that's no good..:dizzy:..So with 2 business cards it stayed off the mag. and fired up. But that's garbage and I could wiggle it more than I originally had perceived. I notice they are imperial sized bearings 5/8 crank. both bearings and seals are NLA from poulan.
Normal R10 ABEC 3 bearings are good to 13K rpm any one know the OD?...1-3/8?hopefully

So far I bought new
bar 20"
chain
sprocket
gaskets
carb kit
filter the funky flocked screen one
filter seal-gasket
fuel lines
2 iso rubbers
rings
used P&C
It seems like it ought to be a decent saw but if the cases are bad I will probably shelf this project.

your cases are probably fine. Those are Torrington needle brgs not roller brgs. They will not be as tight as roller brgs but not as loose as you described. There should be a part number on the brg so you can get new ones from any brg house, as well as crank seals.

The crank end play is controlled by how far the brgs are set in the case. Poulan has a tool just for setting the brg depth, but you can trial and error it till you get it right.
 
If if if this is a good Poulan Pro 4620 engine, it would be good buy with free shipping, especially for someone wanting to try their hand at modding.

EDIT--Yes, it's Poulan engine.

I'm tempted.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

You can not even buy a piston and ring for that kind of money. Looks like a good deal to me. It also looks like it could fit the PP 46cc saws.


Yep, that's my thinking. I wonder if the plastic from a 2900, 295, etc. would be a direct fit?
 
Yep, that's my thinking. I wonder if the plastic from a 2900, 295, etc. would be a direct fit?

The plastic from a 2900/295 will fit.If you are going to buy it just do it or i will do :laugh:. My 2775 needs a flyweel and maybe p/c but the seller does not say anything about the condition of the p/c.He only says good compresion.Anyway,tommorow,if it's still anailable i will buy it.
 
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I have had several 295 tore completely down and it looks like it will drop right in. Heck he even has the antivibe spring on the engine to the handle and all of the engine mounting bushings that go through the plastic in the bottom of the saw. I had to replace one of those on my last rebuild.
 
The plastic from a 2900 will fit,i am not sure for the 295.If you are going to buy it just do it or i will do :laugh:. My 2775 needs a flyweel and maybe p/c but the seller does not say anything about the condition of the p/c.He only says good compresion.Anyway,tommorow,if it's still anailable i will buy it.

Go for it! Hopefully the seller will ship to Greece (something tells me the seller won't do free overseas shipping) If I really wanted it I would've clicked the BIN once the seller provided the 358/Poulan part #, instead of posting it here :evilgrin:.
 
3400/3800 mains

your cases are probably fine. Those are Torrington needle brgs not roller brgs. They will not be as tight as roller brgs but not as loose as you described. There should be a part number on the brg so you can get new ones from any brg house, as well as crank seals.

The crank end play is controlled by how far the brgs are set in the case. Poulan has a tool just for setting the brg depth, but you can trial and error it till you get it right.

Thanks Mark
If the mains went out, I'd wondered if the P/C got scored/burned up from a main seal airleak? I'll fab up some plates to seal the intake & exhaust ports for a leak down check before and after the bearing/seal change. It's good to know the cases do not routinely get trashed from main bearing failure...I feel better about continuing with the tear down. As a bonus, the P/C came with the crank & thrust washers still attached, and they look pretty nice. However the cylinder/in manifold surface was heavily wire wheeled and I had to take a skim on the bridgeport to make it a flat surface.
Final Q do the needles run on the crank or is there a seperate inner race. Thanks again
 
Go for it! Hopefully the seller will ship to Greece (something tells me the seller won't do free overseas shipping) If I really wanted it I would've clicked the BIN once the seller provided the 358/Poulan part #, instead of posting it here :evilgrin:.

You are right,the shipping to Greece is 52.00$ (is quite resonable for a whole engine if you think that the most sellers asking about 30.00$ or more for a cylinder or a bar).I've sent a message to the seller asking him to take out the muffler to see the p/c.If p/c are in good condition,then this unit will be mine :blob2:.
 
Thanks Mark
If the mains went out, I'd wondered if the P/C got scored/burned up from a main seal airleak? I'll fab up some plates to seal the intake & exhaust ports for a leak down check before and after the bearing/seal change. It's good to know the cases do not routinely get trashed from main bearing failure...I feel better about continuing with the tear down. As a bonus, the P/C came with the crank & thrust washers still attached, and they look pretty nice. However the cylinder/in manifold surface was heavily wire wheeled and I had to take a skim on the bridgeport to make it a flat surface.
Final Q do the needles run on the crank or is there a seperate inner race. Thanks again
The needles run on the crank and the crank could be worn as well. Good you got the other crank that way. The most probable reason you got the crank is it takes special tools to remove the piston pin since it is press fit to the rod.
 
your cases are probably fine. Those are Torrington needle brgs not roller brgs. They will not be as tight as roller brgs but not as loose as you described. There should be a part number on the brg so you can get new ones from any brg house, as well as crank seals.

The crank end play is controlled by how far the brgs are set in the case. Poulan has a tool just for setting the brg depth, but you can trial and error it till you get it right.

Mark's got it alright. The bearing is a Torrington BH-108 available from Timken. I picked up several from my local bearing dealer. Also don't forget to re-install your Thrust washers onto the crank. They also help with end play. This may sound stupid but you are sure your coil isn't the culprit. By that I mean is it tight and the screw holes not wollered out?
Bob
 
garbage main bearings?-3800

Thanks Bob
My evidence of slop was in setting the flywheel to magneto clearance with a business card. Once I pulled the business card out the flywheel magnet sucked up the crank to touch the mag. Well that's no good..:dizzy:..So with 2 business cards it stayed off the mag. and fired up. But that's garbage and



I could wiggle it more than I originally had perceived.

Bob & mark
That darn indescriptive word "IT"
Nope not a wiggly coil mount
should have said.... I could "wiggle the crank" more than I initially perceived. Even after I set the gap with 2 cards I rewiggled the crank and said #*** &####. ..garbage

I looked up the BH108 and see it is a pressed cup and not a heavy duty roller style like I was preparing to find.... like a timken HJ series.
Oh well this whole saw is turning out not as quick and easy a fix like I was hoping for.
I want this, now 3800, at 61cc & 20", to fit well in the middle of my 42cc (2150)18" and the 99cc husky 298xp 24", and hope it performs well and reliable.

The 50cc 525 jred is only on loan from a friend for repair and extended "testing"... he'll want it back one day. But I did get it fixed and running well.

I'll advise after the 3800 pressure/vacuum tests.
cheers
Dave
 
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