Nik's Poulan Thread
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zogger
Tree Freak
thanks! I guess basically the same power as a 3400 then.
zogger
Tree Freak
245a clutch
Anyone ever trying adjusting the bend in these flat clutch springs, try to resurrect them? Or take them out and flip them over? Also, what would be acceptable play in the bearing race there. With a dry bearing, there is *some* give. Haven't cleaned it and put it back together yet with grease, so maybe that will take up the slack. I scored a new sprocket, just trying to shake down what the little sloppiness is. I could rock the old assembly enough so part of a clutch shoe would just make contact. The bearing looks good, just dry, no evident plastic melting in the cage, no big grooves in the old spur sprocket,crank looks OK (no micrometer to check it though). It just wiggles a little and I think that is my "chain won't stop spinning at idle" problem. Or just the race, are they known to wear easy in this series? This is my first sloppy clutch I have encountered, just trying to learn, thanks in advance.
Anyone ever trying adjusting the bend in these flat clutch springs, try to resurrect them? Or take them out and flip them over? Also, what would be acceptable play in the bearing race there. With a dry bearing, there is *some* give. Haven't cleaned it and put it back together yet with grease, so maybe that will take up the slack. I scored a new sprocket, just trying to shake down what the little sloppiness is. I could rock the old assembly enough so part of a clutch shoe would just make contact. The bearing looks good, just dry, no evident plastic melting in the cage, no big grooves in the old spur sprocket,crank looks OK (no micrometer to check it though). It just wiggles a little and I think that is my "chain won't stop spinning at idle" problem. Or just the race, are they known to wear easy in this series? This is my first sloppy clutch I have encountered, just trying to learn, thanks in advance.
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/198888.htm
quick and dirty. should be enough for anyone that cares to take the time to study it.
quick and dirty. should be enough for anyone that cares to take the time to study it.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good job
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well I don't have a PP330 but do have two 3300's. Same cc size and they are higher revving than the 3400. 3300 has more compression as well, as 150 is normal and you'll rarely get more than 135 out of a 3400.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes,
I flip the clutch springs over in mine when they get worn.
Works great.
I wish I could find a case of those springs.
Mike
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
a little one-page cheat sheet http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/198888.htm#post3616026
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cool
,but,
what did you pay for shipping? I always have to take shipping $$ into consideration on eBay.
Poulan model # S33 | eBay
This 33 saw won't win any design awards for asthetics, but it appears that it might be easy to work on. Anyone know (no, I'm not going to bid on it)?
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Works for many other Poulans and even some other brands in theory, the parts numbers would change of course.
StinkyBunny
ArboristSite Operative
Something you guys might appreciate. A 2375 lb motor that I scrapped. For those using the metric system that's just a tad under 1200 kgs. Now you know how I afford my CSD, lol.
Thats a hell of a motor! We scrap as well. Right now I have a mixed bag of motors (a lot smaller than that one!) some stainless, brass and copper. Im waiting till the piles grow some more before I turn them in.
Thanks goes out to Karl for making up these Poulan 361 style fuel line fittings that I have been using for the 4200-8500 style saws.
These allow a 2 piece fuel line setup on these since the original style 3/16"ID thin wall fuel line is not made any more.
I have some to help you guys who need them. I dont want to run afoul of the good folks who run this site and there rules here so if your in need of any please PM me and I will give the details needed.
I know I posted a picture of these fittings before but cannot find it right now.
These allow a 2 piece fuel line setup on these since the original style 3/16"ID thin wall fuel line is not made any more.
I have some to help you guys who need them. I dont want to run afoul of the good folks who run this site and there rules here so if your in need of any please PM me and I will give the details needed.
I know I posted a picture of these fittings before but cannot find it right now.
Don't know if this is the pic you were referring too or not Mark. Looks good to me though.
Gregg,
Heckel
ArboristSite Lurker
Unless there is some Swahili dialect where the word "Pump" = "check valve assembly with a hose barb" in English, there is no actual pump in a 2300 CVA. Apparently at least one IPL refers to a pump on a 2300CVA... and that is fine as long as you realize that it actually isn't. There are no moving parts at all in that oiler, unless one wants to make a point; the engine itself generates the pressure going to the oil tank.
Here's the best I can do to help. Good luck.
Well, It just don't get any simplier to understand than that. I thought that was how it worked and now I know. I still have not recieved the parts yet but as soon as I do, I will post the results!
Thanks again to everyone, "The Heckel" (You know, Jeckel's brother)
3400/3800 bearings?
I just finished assembling the dead 3400 upgrade to 3800 P&C. Found one problem you guys might enlighten me on so I can figure how to proceed further.
The mains feel loose and I can now see what seems to be to much flex between the flywheel and mag coil.
Question is..what is the most likely failure mode. Do the ball bearing wear or do the cases egg out and fail to hold the bearings.
Hoping I can just put bearings and seals. It fired right up but I know I will have to go back in or scrap it.
thanks
I just finished assembling the dead 3400 upgrade to 3800 P&C. Found one problem you guys might enlighten me on so I can figure how to proceed further.
The mains feel loose and I can now see what seems to be to much flex between the flywheel and mag coil.
Question is..what is the most likely failure mode. Do the ball bearing wear or do the cases egg out and fail to hold the bearings.
Hoping I can just put bearings and seals. It fired right up but I know I will have to go back in or scrap it.
thanks
Don't know if this is the pic you were referring too or not Mark. Looks good to me though.
Gregg,
Gregg, thats not the one I was looking for, it was just the fitting, not in the saw. That one pictured is one Bob made and it has 4 flats which are fine but these are like the originals with a hex on them.
I just went a took a picture of the ones that Karl made, there freaking nice.
One of these is going to end up in my primo 5200 bow saw soon, I hope.
One of these is going to end up in my primo 5200 bow saw soon, I hope.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
wow!!!
thats bad to the bone.... now if ya can get a check valve for a micro made i bet ya could sell alot of them!!!!!
I just went a took a picture of the ones that Karl made, there freaking nice.
One of these is going to end up in my primo 5200 bow saw soon, I hope.
thats bad to the bone.... now if ya can get a check valve for a micro made i bet ya could sell alot of them!!!!!
Very nice. I don't even have a saw that needs one but I still want one!
