Nik's Poulan Thread

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What Kevin is telling you is that the adjustment screws on your saw are the splined ones that take a special splined tool.
It looks rather like a small nut driver and they are available on eeeeeeeeee-bay for $10.00 or less.
They are one of the areas where the O.P.E. industry actually PROGRESSED because of the stinking, low living, egg sucking, ever expanding, all intrusive E.P.A.!!!
After adjusting several of the splined type carbs, I am not a fan of the regular slotted screws anymore!!!


Mike

Don't hold back Mike. Tell us how you really feel.;) I agree on them splined screws. I wish ALL of my saws had those! I wanted to richen the H screw a tad on the 385xp today while milling with it.
Fumbling around with a little screw driver, in a dark hole that you can't see in. Maybe its just advanced age catching up with me. But sure would have been easier with a splined screw & screw driver.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I picked up one today for $60 as it is pictured, chainbrake and all. Good compression, good fire, and it needs the typical fuel system treatment along with a severe cleaning.



254255d1348609552-poulan-4000-jpg
 
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I wish I was going to be there just so I could see your milling set up.

Those squares look pretty darn good.

Well someday all in good time I must not rush things.

They aren't perfect! But close enough for the girls we hang out with.:msp_biggrin:
The last time I made some square wood, I mounted the rail gizmo directly to the log. Decided to do it this time, with the rail system mounted to a log table thing I made. I made mine a lot taller than recemended. I like to stand UPRIGHT and push the saw, rather than being hunched over or on my knees.:msp_smile: Took me awhile to get it put back together. Been about 4 years since I last used it.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I picked up one today for $60 as it is pictured, chainbrake and all. Good compression, good fire, and it needs the typical fuel system treatment along with a severe cleaning.



254255d1348609552-poulan-4000-jpg

Looks good to me Randy! :msp_thumbup: I have 4 of those saws. I use a 4000 more than any other. Don't have any with a brake though.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Al, are you sure the crankcase was leaking ?.
Smoking bad and the oiler not working sounds like a bad oiler check valve to me.
The old stand by Permatex # 2 will probably work ok but I would use Permatex MotoSeal myself.

Mark, I tried a different check valve first - but knowing my luck it could have been bad too. I am using the #2 for strictly economic reasons - I got it free. Besides, that Motoseal is a real big ticket item here and I am so cheap my wife says I can wear a pair of shoes for twenty years and still keep them for best.:msp_biggrin:
So far I have put these little saws together with red RTV, Threebond, blue silicone, cheap black auto gasket-goo and they are all still running fine. Kind of supports my theory that Australian petrol is far more benign than yours. I have 50 year old saws running original fuel lines and carb diaphragms.
I got a new Stihl tank yesterday that had a special new blue fuel line - apparently it is more fuel resistant! Why can't they just make the fuel less corrosive, I am sure the motors would run better for it.
 
What Kevin is telling you is that the adjustment screws on your saw are the splined ones that take a special splined tool.
It looks rather like a small nut driver and they are available on eeeeeeeeee-bay for $10.00 or less.
They are one of the areas where the O.P.E. industry actually PROGRESSED because of the stinking, low living, egg sucking, ever expanding, all intrusive E.P.A.!!!
After adjusting several of the splined type carbs, I am not a fan of the regular slotted screws anymore!!!


Mike

Thanks for explaining Mike. I just assumed people knew that stuff. :dunno:

My redneck way which is more time consuming. I take carb off and cut H ans L then slot them for screwdriver. Since buying the splined and single D I havent had to do that anymore.
You also can sometimes slide fuel line over the splined H L and turn them with out the epa tools I posted in pic.
 
Don't hold back Mike. Tell us how you really feel.;) I agree on them splined screws. I wish ALL of my saws had those! I wanted to richen the H screw a tad on the 385xp today while milling with it.
Fumbling around with a little screw driver, in a dark hole that you can't see in. Maybe its just advanced age catching up with me. But sure would have been easier with a splined screw & screw driver.

:cheers:
Gregg,

My guess is fumbling around in dark holes didn't bother you so much when you were younger. :msp_biggrin:
BTW, those are nice cants you cut. Guess I'll see if I can get my 306 going. Been a while since I run it.
 
My guess is fumbling around in dark holes didn't bother you so much when you were younger. :msp_biggrin:
BTW, those are nice cants you cut. Guess I'll see if I can get my 306 going. Been a while since I run it.

I hear you there. The one I just pictured happend to be the one I grabbed to make a scan of the spike off of it for the spike thread.

I try to tag my saws when put away so I know that they have been drained, run dry and know when they have been run last.

The tag on this one says it was put up two years ago and was probably only run then to replace the fuel line when I went through all of them after that ethanol fiasco.

I think I'll bring it dry to the GTG, fuel it up there and see if it still runs. :ices_rofl: I'm betting that it will.
 
Thanks for explaining Mike. I just assumed people knew that stuff. :dunno:

My redneck way which is more time consuming. I take carb off and cut H ans L then slot them for screwdriver,

I did that one time and one time only. Found out that it aint worth a damn on those saws without a rubber guide to guide the screwdriver with.

Bought the tool and have not looked back. These splined carb screws are the best thing since sliced bread. I get a chuckle out of these folks in the main forum complaining about them. Fools...........
 
I hear you there. The one I just pictured happend to be the one I grabbed to make a scan of the spike off of it for the spike thread.

I try to tag my saws when put away so I know that they have been drained, run dry and know when they have been run last.

The tag on this one says it was put up two years ago and was probably only run then to replace the fuel line when I went through all of them after that ethanol fiasco.

I think I'll bring it dry to the GTG, fuel it up there and see if it still runs. :ices_rofl: I'm betting that it will.

Guess who after all these years of your excellent advice! Failed to follow it.:dizzy:
I never run them dry...so I might have some work to do to them. Just keeping my fingers crossed that fresh gas will get them going. lol

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
My guess is fumbling around in dark holes didn't bother you so much when you were younger. :msp_biggrin:
BTW, those are nice cants you cut. Guess I'll see if I can get my 306 going. Been a while since I run it.

Steve, I should probably just leave that line alone!:ices_rofl: I'll just say that fumbling with a dark hole on my saws, is a whole lot less expensive.:D

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I got my dayton up and running. I had it on a shelf for a couple of years without doing anything, and this Sunday I went through it. I cut a pretty good sized elm that was standing dead. I like this saw, it has good compression and runs good. I still have problems with the vent in the gas cap. Does anyone know where to find a duckbill for the gas cap. When the tank is full it shoots fuel like old faithful.
 
I got my dayton up and running. I had it on a shelf for a couple of years without doing anything, and this Sunday I went through it. I cut a pretty good sized elm that was standing dead. I like this saw, it has good compression and runs good. I still have problems with the vent in the gas cap. Does anyone know where to find a duckbill for the gas cap. When the tank is full it shoots fuel like old faithful.



If it were me, I would try a Poulan or Husqvarna dealer!
Just sayin'!


Mike
 
Lokin' good!:clap:

Part number for the duckbills is 530026119. You can get 'em at any Husky dealer, as well as from many online sources. That number is now both a Poulan and Husqvarna #.
 
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I got my dayton up and running. I had it on a shelf for a couple of years without doing anything, and this Sunday I went through it. I cut a pretty good sized elm that was standing dead. I like this saw, it has good compression and runs good. I still have problems with the vent in the gas cap. Does anyone know where to find a duckbill for the gas cap. When the tank is full it shoots fuel like old faithful.

Nice saw but do yourself a favor and get that muffler cover welded up or else it will keep cracking till it falls off. Much eaiser to fix now then later.
 
I got my dayton up and running. I had it on a shelf for a couple of years without doing anything, and this Sunday I went through it. I cut a pretty good sized elm that was standing dead. I like this saw, it has good compression and runs good. I still have problems with the vent in the gas cap. Does anyone know where to find a duckbill for the gas cap. When the tank is full it shoots fuel like old faithful.

Yeah, mine did that a couple of days ago, gets your left hand real clean.
 
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