Nik's Poulan Thread

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I need an education as usual!
I am about to try to spin my 5 yr old 295 for the first time. I have been using old non-synthetic 2 cycle oil probably from the mid 90's in my vintage 70's Craftsman (Roper) 3.7's ( I have three that I have been using) in a 16:1. My '85 Craftsman (Poulan 3400 or 3700) also calls for 16:1 in the manual. I also spun my S25 yesterday with the same.
The 295 manual ( 5 yrs old) says 40:1 which I assume is synthetic oil. My new Stihl leaf blower calls for 50:1 using Stihl super-duper stuff in a little 2.6 OZ orange bottle which I have been using. A member friend uses 50:1 synthetic in all old and new saws. What do you guys think about using the 50:1 mix in the 295 instead of the 40:1 it calls for? This would save me yet another specialized gas can mixture for which I would need to buy another can (plastic). I am sooo confused!!! ( And am not ashamed to say it)

I use 40/1 in all my old Poulans. I however use Stihl synthetic oil in the silver bottle. Its supposedly better than the red bottle???????. Bottom line though I don't think you'de have a problem at 50/1 as many memebers use the same ratio.
Bob
 
Speaking of oil ratios, I got a little Micro yesterday ithat was smoking so badly I thought the previous owner was running it on 10:1! I dumped the fuel and put my own mix in and it still smoked like an old train. Obviously it was sucking oil from the oil tank so a rebuild was in order. I haven't used this product before but it was recommended to me so I will give it a try.
100_0720.jpg

I actually wasn't going to buy any more Micros but this one is the 38cc version with AV and a chain brake - besides I really like yellow Poulans.:D
I am amazed at how easy these little saws are to pull down. This one has a chrome bore and a thin ring piston and has some serious compression. The amazing thing is it ran really well with the PTO side seal almost completely shot! The seal came out in two pieces. The only indication was the oiler wasn't working - no crank case pressure.
100_0705.jpg

Anyway, it came together nicely for a 21 year old saw. The bar is a bit long but I have a couple of little banana bars somewhere. It runs really nicely and has not seen much use. I think it makes a nice companion saw to the PP 375.
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100_0716.jpg




Al.

Al, will that Permatx hold up? I tries it once but then switched to Permatex NO.1 Gray gasket maker.
Bob
 
Bob,
I don't rightly know as it is the first time I have used Permatex #2. I have used a few other sealers and have never had a failure - this could be the first time though. I am actually quite an accomplished failure myself.:hmm3grin2orange:

Al.
 
Al, are you sure the crankcase was leaking ?.

Smoking bad and the oiler not working sounds like a bad oiler check valve to me.

The old stand by Permatex # 2 will probably work ok but I would use Permatex MotoSeal myself.
 
Speaking of oil ratios, I got a little Micro yesterday ithat was smoking so badly I thought the previous owner was running it on 10:1! I dumped the fuel and put my own mix in and it still smoked like an old train. Obviously it was sucking oil from the oil tank so a rebuild was in order. I haven't used this product before but it was recommended to me so I will give it a try.
100_0720.jpg

I would rather use this myself:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm
 
I haven't used this product before but it was recommended to me so I will give it a try.
100_0720.jpg


Al.

Way back in the olden days, I used #2 to glue the gaskets to the rocker covers and oil pan on Chebby engines. Also used it on my first motorcycle on the side cover as the alum. cover didn't have a gasket under it at all.

I has since been using the same stuff in a brushable liquid to seal cylinder base to crankcase when I leave out the gasket. Permatex Super 300 Form-A-Gasket. Give both surfaces two coats and let it 'dry' between coats.

The stuff 'drys' to a soft tar consistancy and only lacquer thinner cuts it.

Carl.
 
Thanks for all of your advice on oil mix. One more question.

If for some personal reason I go with 40:1 for everything because going from 16:1 to 50:1 makes me a little uncomfortable, what do any of you think about me using it in my one yr old Stihl leaf blower that calls for 50:1 using that 2.6 oz Stihl oil ?
Larry
 
If for some personal reason I go with 40:1 for everything because going from 16:1 to 50:1 makes me a little uncomfortable, what do any of you think about me using it in my one yr old Stihl leaf blower that calls for 50:1 using that 2.6 oz Stihl oil ?
Larry

Won't hurt a thing. Sometimes I go down to 32:1 using the Stihl oil in the orange bottle.
 
I just tried to spin my 295 for the first time and have a question

I got nothing, so I looked for carb adjustment screws and found strange (to me) looking stubs with no slot. I have only been working on 25 yr and older saws and do not understand this. I checked the manual and there is only reference to the idle screw in the carb adj section. Any help???
Larry
 
I got nothing, so I looked for carb adjustment screws and found strange (to me) looking stubs with no slot. I have only been working on 25 yr and older saws and do not understand this. I checked the manual and there is only reference to the idle screw in the carb adj section. Any help???
Larry

Betting splined one next to the orange one. $5-$7

Pic

index.php
 
Square cants

Got around to making some square wood for the Poulan GTG today. Cut the logs yesterday, and started milling them today. They are Basswood. Have one more to do, and its thundering now, so will get to it eventually. First one I did, just could get 10" out it, was close.:laugh: Second one, not a problem. Neither will the 3rd one be.

Got a few round ones also. After watching John's (ms460woodchuck) video the other day of his dads old Poulan 306, got me to thinking. Might be fun to run some of the old school Poulan 59cc saws, in either round or square wood for FUN times also.:D I guess I should see if I can get my old 306 & 203 out, see if they will run. I know Mark has several of em, all though several of them are to pretty to run.

Basswoodcants009.jpg


Basswoodcants014.jpg


Basswoodcants016.jpg


Basswoodcants006.jpg


Gregg,
 
Al, are you sure the crankcase was leaking ?.

Smoking bad and the oiler not working sounds like a bad oiler check valve to me.

The old stand by Permatex # 2 will probably work ok but I would use Permatex MotoSeal myself.

Yea, Mark, my age is showing. I meant to say MotoSeal but No#1 ended up in the text. I used No. 2 Gasket Maker once on a S25DA cylinder and it leaked so I changed real quick.
Bob
 
Got around to making some square wood for the Poulan GTG today. Cut the logs yesterday, and started milling them today. They are Basswood. Have one more to do, and its thundering now, so will get to it eventually. First one I did, just could get 10" out it, was close.:laugh: Second one, not a problem. Neither will the 3rd one be.

Got a few round ones also. After watching John's (ms460woodchuck) video the other day of his dads old Poulan 306, got me to thinking. Might be fun to run some of the old school Poulan 59cc saws, in either round or square wood for FUN times also.:D I guess I should see if I can get my old 306 & 203 out, see if they will run. I know Mark has several of em, all though several of them are to pretty to run.

Basswoodcants009.jpg


Basswoodcants014.jpg


Basswoodcants016.jpg


Basswoodcants006.jpg


Gregg,

I wish I was going to be there just so I could see your milling set up.

Those squares look pretty darn good.

Well someday all in good time I must not rush things.
 
And also, what do I do with them?
Larry


What Kevin is telling you is that the adjustment screws on your saw are the splined ones that take a special splined tool.
It looks rather like a small nut driver and they are available on eeeeeeeeee-bay for $10.00 or less.
They are one of the areas where the O.P.E. industry actually PROGRESSED because of the stinking, low living, egg sucking, ever expanding, all intrusive E.P.A.!!!
After adjusting several of the splined type carbs, I am not a fan of the regular slotted screws anymore!!!


Mike
 
What Kevin is telling you is that the adjustment screws on your saw are the splined ones that take a special splined tool.
It looks rather like a small nut driver and they are available on eeeeeeeeee-bay for $10.00 or less.
They are one of the areas where the O.P.E. industry actually PROGRESSED because of the stinking, low living, egg sucking, ever expanding, all intrusive E.P.A.!!!
After adjusting several of the splined type carbs, I am not a fan of the regular slotted screws anymore!!!


Mike

You are a patient man.
 

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