No face Coos Bay

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Thing is that the cut listed above is considered "acceptable" by the Pro's on here...well I like my way...basically the same deal but yet I can't even discuss the technique I and many others in hardwood country use to handle leaners W/O starting a pissing match. All I want to know is why is the Coos Bay non face cut is acceptable but the "Kiss of Death" bore cut method is considered just one foot closer to the grave.

IMO there is nothing "safer" about cutting the sides out narrowing your tag front then back cutting and leaving a post as it breaks over. My way...and I am saying "My" way due to the fact that the people who actually use the method won't admit it on here due to being slammed for such foolishness...

As I was saying, "my" way completely elliminates the heart leaving a front tag and rear trigger...(1) fricken cut and pop the trigger...that's it. Yet that method is considered dangerous and I will probably get my hand smacked for even discussing it. Oh well.

CFaller...dude in NO way am I dissing you for your work at all period...I would just like a clear reason as to why the Non Faced Coos Bay is acceptable and the "kiss of Death" isn't.

When describing the cut you should have stuck "coos bay" monicker on it! That may have made a world of difference in it being accepted. I caught heck a while back for suggesting a heavy leaner be taken down without a face notch, from the same folks that are praising the coos bay no face! Werid, huh?
 
Maybe it should be added that having a fast cutting saw would be a distinct advantage in any coos bay or indeed any leaner ........I can remember a while back Gologit making that comment to me and it makes a whole load of sense
 
When describing the cut you should have stuck "coos bay" monicker on it! That may have made a world of difference in it being accepted. I caught heck a while back for suggesting a heavy leaner be taken down without a face notch, from the same folks that are praising the coos bay no face! Werid, huh?

what thread
 
Ron, I don't think it you and Jon and guys like you that worry us so bad. I have seen 12 or more guests at one time, they cannot even ask ?????. but we cannot protect everyone and this is the logging n forestry forum so..... now what happened to that white oak guy? that gets me, I guess we'll never know.

I cannot believe I missed this thread. I'm no faller, but for whatever reason am totally fascinated by how falling cuts work. The "no face Coos Bay" is a cool cut, but I doubt I will ever need it. This will sound flippant, and I don't intend it that way, but when I have a 12" leaner, I just face it and cut it down. I don't have any aspen or other notoriously chairy wood, and don't work in the winter, and my two "falling" saws are both fast enough to get through the back cut in a hurry when needed.
Larger leaners I will bore. I catch #### for boring, or maybe it's cause its me boring, but it's so easy. I can put in a face (kinda), bore behind the holding wood, and make a back cut (sorta) without having to really even move my feet.
I love learing new stuff, and the boys think I use a "technique" on every tree I see, but I promise that's just because I have yet to see a point in making a video of falling a tree with it's lean.

I hope you guys continue to tolerate me poking around and saying outlandish things, it really makes me happier than it should:cheers:
 
if some of you were working for me we might discuss a change in cutting style but only in the interests of safety and production. If you're getting enough wood on the ground, safely and efficiently, to keep the boss happy and the money coming in it doesn't matter if you drop down on all fours and gnaw the log off at the stump with your teeth. Safety counts. Production counts. The rest is just window dressing.


this is so much of the truth it is worth years of value. When these 2 things are not there, neither the production nor the safety, a fellow is on his way to taking a walk.

and for whatever it's worth...there are times when i wish i could cut smaller wood and not have to play mountain goat on cow-face ground. Some of you guys don't know how easy you have it. So there. :laugh:

yup. Comodity wood on decent ground will pay the bills a whole lot faster than oversize on tough ground. Especially if its tall, for me that means 2 16s and 3 18s, and topwood.
Consistency, reliability, can handle a scrape, and an internal drive to do whats right and work for the intended goal. You have to be able to see how to get your numbers every day. Every day. Thats a good faller.
 
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would it be rude to say that the tree in question, while no doubt leaning, was quite unlikely to have to chair given its relative light weight (dead) and fast cutting wood (dead softwood)? I'd think it was a chance to practice, but a shallowish opened face and a fast backcut would have been fine, or at least as fine as the no face coos bay, which didn't get you out of there any sooner.
 
It would be an unbelievable honor to work for Bob. I've only seen one video of him just fallin a tree, and it was the exact opposite of the dog and pony show I'm usuly running. I shouldn't be surprised, he started with the Stihl 064S model, and the S was for steam powered:msp_biggrin:
 
Very well said Joe- about what it takes to be a good faller. Big timber is fun, but give me bar length ash or soft maple in a nice, rolling upland setting and I can really bang some wood out. The kind of timber that is all logs, no limbs, and a little top. Just fast cutting no nonsense wood. The big hard maple job I just cut was fun, but a ##### at the same time. 2.5 to 3 gallons to cut 10-11mbf in a day is a lot of fuel to burn through. And that is with my chains and saw at optimal performance.
 
Mornin gents. I truly appreciate the time and effort you guys make to try and keep members like me safe and alive. I hope to be able to continue to reference this thread to answer any or most of the questions I've had or have about working in the woods. All I'll say is you all have gotten me out of some jams in the past and you will get me out of some in the future too. Thanks for the wad of awesome information. Use common sense in the woods, or don't go, simple.
 
Bob, that is an undeserved compliment but thanks. I still remember your hesitancy to answer my question long ago about why the feller in a posted video kept revving his saw. I knew you were sizing up my sincerity when you responded. I knew then that you were my kind of guy and I should listen very carefully when you speak. Ron

That was probably me in the video. Looking back a few years later, I was just in too big a hurry. I should have slowed down a but and cut the brush I was cutting before I ever considered starting my notch...it was an afterthought and that is a bad thing in the tree business.

At any rate, this coos bay cut seems like a good card to hold, I can see it being useful in the right circumstance. Kinda reminds me of the suicide notch(except this is much more thought out and this seems relatively safe)...something I refuse to share a video of because I'm smart enough not to do it anymore.

I probably could make a drawing of it, but I'd better not....
 
So what does OSHA think about these no face deals? I like to ream through most of a heavy head leaner and let her rip with a simple back cut. No wood pull & and no busting. Though im not supposed to.... humfff...
 
I'm pretty certain they would frown upon most of them...but since when have they known what works and what doesn't?

Just saying...some rules are meant to be broken :)
 
Most OSHA people I have seen couldn't even start a chainsaw, much less would know what a "face" was or know if it was missing er not. When I was the head sawyer at the ERC mill, all they ever #####ed about was me keeping my window towards the stacker guys clean...I was like, "Why...I don't want to see them anyway! Move along with your small person in a big job ass"
 

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