No more Permatex Motoseal for me.

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I agree with you Pogo, Dirko is incredibly
forgiving when compared to the other options. It’s also got a much longer work time (7 minutes in my experience rather than 1-2 with motoseal / threebond before it skins).

In fact, give the tube to someone who can mess up an anvil and he’ll still get an air tight seal with Dirko.

Worth mentioning Dirko HT red isn’t fuel resistant, but it still works.

I just replaced a seal on my model hit and miss engine and used motoseal for the cylinder sleeve and between the cylinder head and cylinder body to mix things up where I’d normally use Dirko.

It’ll be fine, but putting this model engine together using motoseal reminded me that motoseal isn’t necessarily my preference, though I’ll still use it. I do like how easily it applies, but I don’t like how quick it skins up. I purposely used a liberal amount to see if it still sets up in 24 hours. It’s much warmer here in Oz that many countries and I think the cold causes Motoseal sealing / setting issues too.8F5464AB-1990-40F9-A874-433A73D5BC96.jpeg
 
I agree with you Pogo, Dirko is incredibly
forgiving when compared to the other options. It’s also got a much longer work time (7 minutes in my experience rather than 1-2 with motoseal / threebond before it skins).

In fact, give the tube to someone who can mess up an anvil and he’ll still get an air tight seal with Dirko.

Worth mentioning Dirko HT red isn’t fuel resistant, but it still works.

I just replaced a seal on my model hit and miss engine and used motoseal for the cylinder sleeve and between the cylinder head and cylinder body to mix things up where I’d normally use Dirko.

It’ll be fine, but putting this model engine together using motoseal reminded me that motoseal isn’t necessarily my preference, though I’ll still use it. I do like how easily it applies, but I don’t like how quick it skins up. I purposely used a liberal amount to see if it still sets up in 24 hours. It’s much warmer here in Oz that many countries and I think the cold causes Motoseal sealing / setting issues too.View attachment 892857
Make it into one of these
 
Worth mentioning Dirko HT red isn’t fuel resistant, but it still works.
You're actually correct and I stand humbly corrected. Perhaps 'petroleum' or 'oil' resistant is more accurate to better categorize its capability in that regard. And while it does indeed still work in such conditions, MotoSeal Ultra Grey would be my first choice for an actual "fuel resistant" application.

Some cool gadgetry you guys have there.
 
I wouldnt use anything for a base gasket delete that isnt fuel resistant, which rules out most silicone based products.
I've had 100% success using Loctite 510. It's both chemical and heat resistant.
 
I wouldnt use anything for a base gasket delete that isnt fuel resistant, which rules out most silicone based products.
I've had 100% success using Loctite 510. It's both chemical and heat resistant.
Yes, but note that literally every Stihl shop in the world uses Dirko ht red for every crankshaft seal and clamshell engine (not just chainsaws). I have never heard of a single failure of anyone using Dirko due to fuel on here and can’t imagine Stihl would use Dirko ht red in every manual and engine above for decades if there was an issue.
 
Yes, but note that literally every Stihl shop in the world uses Dirko ht red for every crankshaft seal and clamshell engine (not just chainsaws). I have never heard of a single failure of anyone using Dirko due to fuel on here and can’t imagine Stihl would use Dirko ht red in every manual and engine above for decades if there was an issue.
I get that. It may work, but it's certainly not the best thing you can use for such a surface.
 
One thing I like about Dirko is its versatility: it bonds metal to plastics (like glass-reinforced nylon on some Husky saws), rubber to metal (such as nitrile or Viton oil seals to metal crankcases), and metal to metal (for base gasket deletes).

It's effective for external use on leaks in fuel tanks and air leaks. It also offers excellent elasticity, a wide temperature range, gap sealing and good fuel resistance.

Its work time is ok at about 7-10 minutes, though if I need longer, I’ll use ThreeBond 1215 AKA Yamabond 4 (which offers an hour).

And so I’m not posting multiple times, @Del_ I use to use Vaseline, but found it messy and risky. I stumbled upon rubber inner tube through frustration with the mess, it may help you too. The video is only a few minutes long:
 
Dirko red ht isn't the best choice, even per elring, it's not rated for any amount of fuel contact. Just water/coolant and lubricating oil. I suspect the latter is why it holds up in a 2 stroke crankcase. It's not my go to for crankcase sealing, amd I'd never select it to seal up a fuel tank, but it's readily available over better products.
 

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