Norwood lumberlite 26.

[lazyguy]

Several months ago I ordered a Norwood lumberlite. When I started opening boxes, I went OH-crap.

I think I'm over my head. It looks like it going to be like making a model car like I only did, ONCE as a kid!

But, once I started it went together easily and quickly. I have a lot of woodworking tools, but not much in mechanic tools.

I'm not a car mechanic type guy. I've only changed a few car batteries in the last 15 years, that's about all the car repairs I do!

But, I only needed a few sockets, wrenches and a med sized cresent wench, and allen wrenches.
It took me maybe 20 hours working a little here and there on it.
I could do it a 2nd time in a day, I'm sure!

Funny, these things look a lot LARGER in the garage than they do online in a field

It looks to be a very well thought out machine to say the least.

I'm shopping for 8" casters to load it onto my trailer like they do with the woodmizer lt15.

I was thinking once I started looking at the 9 hp. honda manual how am I going to drain it??

So, I ordered Drainzit Oil Changing Aid hoses. But their out of stock

It also looks like I'm going to have to make a shorter pair of logs rests.

I do have a few questions.

How do you guys add oil to this motor??
It would take a funky funnel to say the least!

The honda manual says to add just .32 qt. on the reduction case side. There's no dipstick on this side.
I can measure the first time but after that??

Does anyone store their norwood like woodmizer lt10??

I'm only planning on using this machine a few month a year, the rest I'd like to store it.
I'm looking for any and all suggestions.

Thank's
Dave S.

 

[qbilder]

Maybe use an oil can to add oil. As for storing it, just cover the saw head with a tarp if it's going to be sitting for a while without use. Otherwise, they're pretty low maintenance. Congrats on the new saw & have fun.

 

[hamish]

Dave

Welcome to AS and especially welcome to the Norwood Family.

To add oil to the engine, use a long funnel or a spout off a gera lube bottle and screw it onto the oil bottle.

Checking oil on a GX series Honda is easy, the oil should be level with hole in the crankcase cover.
The dipstick can be used in either hole on the crankcase cover. Basically fill it till its starts running out he fill hole, wait till it stops and your good to go.

You shouldnt need a shorter set of log rests, unless you plan on cutting your last board at less then 3/4".

The Ml26 can be stored in a similar fashion as the LT10, but you will need a good strong back and a friend with one also.

wait till you get your first log on it, then the real fun begins!

Jeremy

 

[gemniii]

<snip>
The Ml26 can be stored in a similar fashion as the LT10, but you will need a good strong back and a friend with one also. <snip>

Or maybe use an engine hoist

 

[Dave Boyt]

Dave,

Welcome to Norwood & the forum. A lot of good info here on milling and drying lumber. I know what you mean about putting the mill together. I assembled an MX34, and it took me a couple of days, but a lot of that time was taking it back apart and following the instructions (I never was too good at that... just ask my wife).

Best advice is to take your time, and if it isn't doing what you think it should, take the time to figure it out. I took me a while to get all the belts & cables tensioned correctly, and get the blade tracking right. And don't be too hard on yourself when you cut into a clamp or accidentally roll a log off the back side of the mill. Hope you'll keep us posted so that we can learn from you, too. By the way, check the Norwood Connect forum on their web site once in a while.

Enjoy!

 

[SDB777]

I leave my LT10 set-up all the time....never know when a chance to run some blades through a few logs. And besides, way stuff is typically made, the more you take it apart and put it together...the looser things get:msp_unsure:



Scott (why you want to store it) B

 

[lazyguy]

Thank you; all for you're input.

I do have an engine hoist that I was planning on using to take the head off of the rails.
I didn't think about the "making it loose" part though. You're probably right.

I just don't have the room in the garage. It's only 19' X 21' I believe.


I like the "oil can" Idea, for adding oil, I think that will work.


Dave B., I've read you're messages on the norwood forum a few months ago They don't have the visits like this forum or the forestry forum.
And the saw is all put together, but, Technicaly I haven't adjusted the motor and clutch cables yet.
Or started it up for that matter. Will soon though!

Thank you, Jeremy, I was a little nervous about just guessing how full on the oil.
I know too much oil can be bad for most motors. These motors sound almost ***** resistant.

I have 4 - 40" long X about 22" diameter, walnut logs in the garage.
These will be my test subjects. Shss - don't tell my neighbors

After I know it's adjusted correctly. I'm planning on taking it over a friends place about 80 miles away.
Where he's got at least 15 K. Bf of Ash and sugar maple. Mostly ash.

I don't think my current trailer is really up to the task. I've looked online at the norwood trailer package.
It looks really nice. But seems pretty pricy. I'm thinking of just getting a little stouter trailer than I already have. Multi-purpose. Where the norwood trailer would only work for the saw.

I plan to pass on the knowledge as I learn it.
That's why I made my comments about the saw build, for the guys on the fence afraid to put one together.
If I can put one together almost ANYONE, can!!!

I can't figure out how to add photo's??
I did it before. I think I'm too tired. I'll post a few to show my tiny garage
And new toy/tool.

And thank's for the welcomes:


Dave S.

 

[Dave Boyt]

Dave, nothing like a fresh set of ideas for old problems. Thanks for your input, and I look forward to more. The sawmill is built to take the vibration and stress of cutting lumber, and you won't damage it or loosen bolts (other than the ones you remove) by taking the carriage off the tracks-- as long as you don't drop it. You'll find it a bit of a pain to get everything lined up for putting back on the track, though.

You'll love the wood that comes off the 40" walnut logs, though it will be a bit tricky to get them clamped down. Be sure to get the wood stickered for air drying as soon as you can. Here's a link to a couple of techniques that I use: air drying link.

15k bd ft of ash & maple will make you an experienced sawyer in short order.

You're right about assembling the mill. I took my chain saw apart to replace the fuel line and wound up taking it to a repair shop in a box when I couldn't figure out how to get it back together-- but had no problems assembling an MX34.

Using the "Insert Image" button above the text box (looks like a picture of a tree) puts thumbnail graphics that people can click on to see the full-size photo. I go through photobucket, but not everyone likes that program.

Take your time, learn, be careful, and have fun!

 

[hamish]

Dave S.

I have seen the Norwood trailer package for the ML26 in person and I would personally pass on it, due to the cost and details that seemed fruitless (the support legs should be trailer jacks so you can adjust the mill more easily, among other things).

A local welder can fab you up a stouter version for a much lower cost.

View attachment 276631

This is when it gets real fun!

 

[lazyguy]

I wasn't sure if that was the link to add photo's.View attachment 276719View attachment 276720View attachment 276721

These show my treasure's "logs", and how small my garage is.

I hope the photo's come in small. It seems like they are large files, when I was uploading them.

I know now I should have removed the bark, better late than never.
I'm sure I'll get major degrade on the wood, but it was free so?

I didn't see that link on the norwood forum. Thank's.
I'm planning on drying most of the lumber on my friends property.

Some select lumber I plan to air dry on my deck. Few 100 bf. of maple.
Where I live there will be NO stacking of lumber behind the house or next to it for that matter!

I'm living in a VERY, prissy neighborhood, to say the least.

A 30' pine tree fell, 3 houses over, a few days ago. They payed a company to remove the tree.
4 guys pulled up with a large bobcat, and about a 30 yard trash can.
I bet they spent 2k on that. That's about 2 or 3 hours of time with a chainsaw and then stack it!

I removed a larger pine next to the power lines and a 50' dead junk tree when I first moved into this house. I spent about $2.00 on a new chainsaw file and did it myself.

I was kind of thinking the same thing about the trailer package.

I've never seen the trailer package in person or heck even a bandsaw mill before mine. Just the circle mill I buy my lumber from.
If it was 1k, I'd be all over it, but for 2k and shipping???

I was thinking of having something made, maybe out of 2' square stock with 8 trailer jacks.
But, I'm worried about getting it registered. And I want to be able to store it, flat against the wall in the garage.
The trailer I have now is foldable. But very light duty.
I'll most likely just buy or have built a little stouter, 5 x 8 flat bed trailer, with removable tong, so that I can stand it up against the wall.

Is that the 31" log I read about
Most of the lumber I'll be cutting will be about 20" diameter. He's got atleast 100 trees he wants down.
I've looked at them. They are pretty straight with no branches for 30' +.

 

[hamish]

To have a trailer suitable for a bolt together mill it should be almost its full length if you intend on milling on the trailer.

If you just want to tansport it, near any trailer or truck can do, just alot more set up time one on site.

Rules and regulations vary dependant where you live. Myself I have two choices, plate it, or use a pin to attach it to my truck and attach a slow moving vehicle sign and its deemed farm use.

I entend on using a ball or pintle hitch and paying to have it plated, as for in my neck of the woods if its plated its insured under the policy of my truck. As an agricultural implement, no coverage.

I moved my entire mill all 16', mill head in place on a 4x7 trailer, but got to cheat a bit as the front was open so I gained another 4 feet................it was a slow drive.

 

[Dave Boyt]

Good that you have a friend with room to run the sawmill. Is it an option to leave the track at your friend's pace and take the carriage home? I see what you mean about the small shop. Looks pretty tight in there. Good luck with your neighbors!

 

[davistree]

Norwood Trailer

I have a beefed up trailer package made out of steel I beams. I get tons of I beams from demoing buildings in my general contracting business. The trailer tongue and wheels bolt on, purchased from tractor supply. I have the mill mounted directly to the I beams, the mill is super solid now. The Tongue and wheels go on and off easily. I have additional track built from i beams and steel L channel that matches up to the norwood track. All together with the additional track, trailer tongue, and wheels, I have maybe 150-200 into the whole set up. I have I have kicked around the idea of adding trailer jacks to the sides of the mill for faster setup.

 

[Dave Boyt]

How about some photos when you get around to it?