Not To steal any ones thunder but.....

[Oregon_Native]

i brought home a SP 125 with 24" mac hard nose bar and .404" pitch semi chisel chain.

i reset points and plug gave it a few tugs and it ran for a few secs.

next up carb cleanup and a complete cleaning. will post pics tomorrow.

 

[keith c raymond]

Before i look for my thunder I paid 11 bucks for mine..

 

[Oregon_Native]

Ok i got some pics.

i do have the bar and clutch cover but were not on at time of photo.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Whats with all the duct tape on the handles?

 

[Oregon_Native]

it came that way. don't know why.

 

[jason j ladue]

that is one ugly saw... good thing beauty is deeper than the skin. hows it treatcha?

 

[ozflea]

No matter how ugly they look their still better than a Stihl, i suppose the soft rubber handle frame grips have had it, hense the reason for the duct tape.
I would love one of these as it had brute Muscle power.
Good luck with the new beast Oregon_native.

Another Mc lover

Mc Bob.

http://www.users.bigpond.com/ozflea/saws.html

 

[Oregon_Native]

any one know the correct procedure for setting the point timing on this saw.

when i got it it had a broke flywheel key, so i created a new one and it sheared to after trying to kick over backwards and jerking the pluu rope out of my hands.

i think i will get a module to replace the points.

 

[Al Smith]

points

As per McCulloch ,points on an SP 125 is .019 to .020 .Use that comp release every time you pull it over,cause it will in fact make your fingers hurt,if not used.It's your call on the module,but the points system is very dependable,if set correctly.

 

[MacDaddy]

I see you got the model with the silver antivibe handles try to set them to 17 to 19 thousands and see how it runs you might choose a different setting because points can actually change your timing with the amount of gap you choose to run

 

[jason j ladue]

dont get me wrong, i go a couple ugly dogs in the pound my self... actually, i guess it aint so ugly after all. must all be in the eye of the beholder

 

[Oregon_Native]

i got the point replacment installed but saved all the parts for the points just in case.

it started better but it sheared another flywheel key when the nut got loose.

will install another tonight and give it another try.

i am glad i got a good set of files and live near a hardware store.

 

[MacDaddy]

Take some laping compond and lap the cranck to the flywheel and then clean it realy good and use one drop of the blue lock tight and the problem will be solved

 

[Al Smith]

Loosey goosey?

Wait a minute there! How did you tighten the flywheel?Did you put a stop[piece of rope]in the cylinder?That flywheel has a taper fit! The only thing that key does is keep it in proper timing.If the flywheel was tight,it would not move,key or not.

 

[Oregon_Native]

it should in a perfect world. but that saw vibrates a lot and the taper is not perfect any more. and my key may have been a little tall and not let the flywheel seat correctly i will pay very close attention when i make the next key to get it set all the way down and i will torque the nut to spec twice to make sure.

 

[MacDaddy]

also look at the back of the fan cover on the bottom and you will see a small hole find a allen that fits in the hole and spin the motor over tell the allen drops in about 1/4 inch more and this will lock the flywheel from spinning and then you can torque the nut PLEASE DO NOT USE A PISTON STOP

 

[Oregon_Native]

i used a length of rope to stop the piston i don't like the idea of all that pressure put all on a thin spot in the piston.

i looked very carefully at the crank and found a ridge on it and got that taken care of then i made a new key that did not hold the flywheel from seating correctly and then pulled out dads uber electronic torque wrench and it seated the flywheel right were it should be. haven tryed to start it yet.

took some time to look over the chain that came with it.

it was a loop of Oregon 51 semi chisel but it was in good shape though and sharpened up good.

i think i am going to order a loop or two for it from bailys along with a new drive rim.

 

[Oregon_Native]

i did figure out the hole behind the flywheel and the notch in the flywheel.

i also figured out the the passage between the cylinder and the decomp valve had carbened up but the valve is still good. i cleaned the passage put the muffler back on and tryed to start it.

it sheared the key before it started, i really looked at how it broke and where it did i noticed the edge of the key slot on the flywheel was rounded off so i will take a trip back to the shop and get the flywheel from the other part saw along with a new clutch cover or i might just buy the hole part saw if the cylinder looks good. :Eye: :Eye:

 

[Lawn Masters]

If nothing else, you could sell the parts you dont need here.

 

[SawTroll]

Old Jonsered

dont get me wrong, i go a couple ugly dogs in the pound my self... actually, i guess it aint so ugly after all. must all be in the eye of the beholder

Is the saw in the picture a 801 or 90 or ??

Nice looking saw anyway - not the least ugly!