I knew this would be interesting!
Carry on...
Carry on...
Yes, chainsaws, even ported ones have low BMEP and are essentially cheap, disposable devices. It's really pointless to obsess about oil to the degree we do.Would be very oil addative dependent for carbon build up and removal. I'd hazard to say most modern oils would be fine at higher ratios, but then again I've never seen the point in small power equipment. They are about as low power as you could ask for, any power sports engines dwarf the hp numbers our saws see.
Yea, one of the best. Guys with air-cooled KT100 karts use it alot under absolutely torturous conditions with great results. It's good stuff and pretty economical to boot.I didn't know Yamalube made an aircooled two stroke oil. Looked it up and sure enough.
I'm pleased, learned something from an oil thread.
Are you thinking about 50 yo and older cougars? Two legged long hair? They attack one at a time right?That might depend on the Coyote being hairy and four legged....... or if it was a metaphor for the trailing pack of riders looking to steal first place from Wonder Bill?
How are women and dog crap alike?Are you thinking about 50 yo and older cougars? Two legged long hair? They attack one at a time right?
Been out since 1966 , ran it in a Big Bear Scrambler . Twin Cylinder air cooled 350 cc .I didn't know Yamalube made an aircooled two stroke oil. Looked it up and sure enough.
I'm pleased, learned something from an oil thread.
Those auger powerheads never run long enough to burn out all the carbon. Everyone I have ever messed with was full of carbon regardless of the oil or ratio used.What brand and model number are the 2 saws? If they are older models, the oil used back in their day was not as refined as today's full synthetic oils. Hence why they used a heavy oil to fuel mix.
Example... I just tuned up an old Earthquake brand auger for digging holes. OLD 49cc Tecumseh engine. Fixed jet carb. Sticker on the pull start states 24:1! That's 5 oz oil per gallon fuel. The plug that was in it was a bit oil fouled and the exhaust port 1/3 carbon plugged. After carb rebuild, exhaust port cleaning, new fuel line and new plug, I opted to run 38:1. Engine is much happier with a nice cardboard color spark plug, revs up fast and still blows some blue smoke. Inspection camera down the plug hole after running showed a good sheen of oil covering piston and cylinder wall.
I would go with the 40:1 with non ethanol fuel and good quality brand name full synthetic oil rated for air cooled engines . No cheap gas station 2 stroke oil unless in a pinch. Echo Red Armor, Amsoil, Husqvarna, Stihl, Lucas oil and the like are all good oils.
My thoughts:This is all confusing. You think you are being diligent by reading manufacturers literature that comes with the saw. My 395xp called for 87 octane with no more than 10% ethanol and 50:1 high quality synthetic oil. However, Husqy premix is 94 octane (I believe) without ethanol and has the 50:1 recommended fuel to oil ratio.
+1 on all of the above.My thoughts:
You can run more octane. It won't help anything, but it won't hurt anything. Super high octane might get you somewhat less performance, but won't hurt anything.
The less ethanol, the better. You can run "no more than" 10% ethanol, you most definitely don't need to run any.
I would double check your manual, my 30 year old Stihl manual says 89 octane and I'd be surprised if Husky wasn't there too.
I wouldn't want to run premix in a 395 for any serious cutting. Thirsty baby, expensive.
Run what your manual suggests, and tune your saw accordingly. Get on with life.
As per the OP, Husky recommends 33:1 for all their saws over 70cc.My 395xp called for 87 octane with no more than 10% ethanol and 50:1 high quality synthetic oil.
This is why we see some saws not lasting.+1 on all of the above.
As per the OP, Husky recommends 33:1 for all their saws over 70cc.
Interestingly, both oils Husky market are semi-synthetic
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