RescueMan
Rope Rescue Specialist
Hitch for descent?!
While I don't have the experience you guys have in DdRT climbing and descent with Tautlines or Blakes, I would have to agree with Jeff Jepson (The Tree Climber's Companion) that it's not possible to safely descend on a static line solely on a friction hitch.
With a doubled rope slung over a crotch or a even friction-saver, most of the climber's weight it dissipated in the friction of the rope moving over it's upper support point which leaves far less than half the climber's weight to be controlled by the friction hitch, making it possible to do a controlled descent (this is also why an autobloc hitch on the brake side - below - a figure-8 rappel device is so easy to control). In addition, because there is two feet of rope moving through your friction hitch for every foot of descent, this gives a 2:1 friction advantage.
On a single static line, all the climber's weight would be on the friction hitch making the hitch grab sometimes too well and be difficult to release. When it does release it tends to result in sudden uncontrolled acceleration and any attempt to stop the descent can result in the melting of the hitch cord and either fusing to the mainline or severing.
Heat-resistant cords typically are too slick or too stiff to work well in friction hitches (the size ratio and the stiffness ratio of the hitch cord to the host cord is crucial to proper function).
Even using a prusik hitch as a back-up above a descent device has resulted in a number of deaths and near misses among very experienced climbers and cavers (Oh, BTW MasterBlaster - don't ever call us cavers "spelunkers" - that's the term for amatuers!).
I had thought of offering a $20 prize for anyone who could come up with a hitch that would SAFELY work for descent on a static line, but I don't want to be responsible for getting any of you killed.
Climb safe and land on your feet,
- Robert
While I don't have the experience you guys have in DdRT climbing and descent with Tautlines or Blakes, I would have to agree with Jeff Jepson (The Tree Climber's Companion) that it's not possible to safely descend on a static line solely on a friction hitch.
With a doubled rope slung over a crotch or a even friction-saver, most of the climber's weight it dissipated in the friction of the rope moving over it's upper support point which leaves far less than half the climber's weight to be controlled by the friction hitch, making it possible to do a controlled descent (this is also why an autobloc hitch on the brake side - below - a figure-8 rappel device is so easy to control). In addition, because there is two feet of rope moving through your friction hitch for every foot of descent, this gives a 2:1 friction advantage.
On a single static line, all the climber's weight would be on the friction hitch making the hitch grab sometimes too well and be difficult to release. When it does release it tends to result in sudden uncontrolled acceleration and any attempt to stop the descent can result in the melting of the hitch cord and either fusing to the mainline or severing.
Heat-resistant cords typically are too slick or too stiff to work well in friction hitches (the size ratio and the stiffness ratio of the hitch cord to the host cord is crucial to proper function).
Even using a prusik hitch as a back-up above a descent device has resulted in a number of deaths and near misses among very experienced climbers and cavers (Oh, BTW MasterBlaster - don't ever call us cavers "spelunkers" - that's the term for amatuers!).
I had thought of offering a $20 prize for anyone who could come up with a hitch that would SAFELY work for descent on a static line, but I don't want to be responsible for getting any of you killed.
Climb safe and land on your feet,
- Robert