orphaned Power Mac 380 - what to do with it ? is it worth trying to get it running ?

[thesawisthelaw]

So again i somehow ended up with this project.
Was left sitting for multiple years, ran before and had old gas in it.

It turns, gets fuel to the cylinder, has a spark but did not start of course.

other than an exhaust bolt torn off and me breaking the top fin on the cylinder i could not find anything wrong with it.
it was missing the bottom bolt on the handle, but everything else seems to be there.

Is it worth putting it back together ?
is it worth repairing it if it needs anything ?
sorry for the questions but i have 0 McCulloch experience.

if anyone needs one for parts just as well - let me know what you think.

OH and if someone can link me to the service manual / operators manual / explosion drawing that would be great as well !

click on the link for detailed pics and thanks in advance for your replies!

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_PdhenYHbF7dox47FhzN4nJ3es4BX5JDF_TfPClkuqY?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bUUPc6zc0Sc/UaFNbUD1AfI/AAAAAAAAH84/MS4Irnsw-hA/s800/2013-05-25_17-38-20_805.jpg" height="594" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/112880517651970472034/PowerMac380?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Power Mac 380</a></td></tr></table>

 

[Gearhead1]

Don't worry about lack of McCulloch experience, that saw isn't a true McCulloch. It was an Efco, if my memory is correct.

 

[buck futter]

i think it would be worth the challenge if it wasn't to much cheese to fix the lil lady up.

 

[thesawisthelaw]

I also have 0 Efco experience ;-)

but if i get a chance tonight i will try and get her cleaned up some more.
maybe stick the fiberoptic camera in the exhaust port and see what gives...

 

[j1r11]

I have that exact saw and it does run strong, so if you can get it running for under $40, i would go for it. Mine took 5 pulls to start after not being started for over a year with no stabil and the same gas in it.. I got mine for $5 at a garage sale. The only thing that's wrong with mine is the safety throttle latch does not hold the trigger down (nothing a zip tie don't fix):msp_w00t:

 

[gmax]

Don't worry about lack of McCulloch experience, that saw isn't a true McCulloch. It was an Efco, if my memory is correct.

Efco never made any saws for McCulloch.

 

[thesawisthelaw]

any chance i can still get parts like the missing bolt for the exhaust somewhere ?
or the missing bolt from the handle.
and does anyone have a parts list / manual so i put everything together again correctly ?

 

[thesawisthelaw]

well, i spent another hour or so cleaning it up and putting the main parts back together.
for weight optimization purposes i always leave some out ;-)

anyway, it does start up with fuel dripped in the carb and runs for a few seconds, but then dies again.

I strongly assume that the fuel in the lines has "gummed" up - is this possible and if so,
is there a way to UN-gum them without tearing it apart and replacing the lines ????
anything i can use to get the stuff out ?
cup of STA-BIL stabilizer and leave it sitting for a while - then drain ?
(which i happen to have half a bottle in the garage)

thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[brokenbudget]

you're going to have to tear the carb apart weather you like it or not. if the lines are still in good shape with no cracks, not hardened, or swelling. they might just be o.k.. carb kit and fuel filter is a must.
take a look at chainsawr's web site. he has a few parts for that saw. also look at the pro mac 440, eager beaver 2.3, titan 35-40. most nuts and bolts can be closely matched any where you buy them.

 

[thesawisthelaw]

i was just on the chainsawr website and was looking up the carb kit.
that might be the point where labor cost > saw value.

but i think you might be right - the carb will have to be pulled.....

 

[67L36Driver]

Ballpark IPL. May not be the exact model but, there are others where this is. http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McC...6-POWER-MAC-380-02-86-to-04-89-IPL-219752.pdf

 

[thesawisthelaw]

so i had a ####ty day at work (again) and got off a little early and to unwind i gave the Power Mac some attention
and played around with it in the garage.
Cleaned all the left over fuel out of the tank, mixed up a fresh batch of
the finest super plus gasoline with the finest stihl HP Ultra full synthetic 2 stroke oil
money can buy and got it running on that for a few minutes.
without the exhaust at first and then with the exhaust.

it accepts gas and revs up nicely and the chains spins freely as well.

seeing how i am used to working on more refined Swedish and German machinery,
i think this might be best taken over by a McCulloch collector that has more of a knack for
this sort of machine.
Plus, if I could get a couple of bucks for it it would help with my next saw purchase.

will post it in the FS section next and see what someone would be willing to take it in for....

 

[thesawisthelaw]

couldn't let it be - took the carb out :
it is a Tillotson HU58A - will look if i can find a NOS one or a rebuild kit
or at least a thread on how to rebuild one....

better yet - here is the service manual : http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/techinfo_HU_US.pdf

 

[thesawisthelaw]

rebuilt the carb with the complete kit - saw starts and runs like a champ, i even made some cuts,
just needs some minor carb tweaking. replaced the starter assembly and muffler bolts with new ones.

looks like the oiler gasket is completely blown ?
or the oiler itself is cracked ??? any hints ?
it leaks like this without the saw even running !!!

BTW really took my time with the carb rebuild, soaked all the gaskets and everything and still took only about 45 mins.
nothing to it ;-) but you better not drop anything !

 

[thesawisthelaw]

obviously i have about $7000 worth of labor in a $25 saw - there is no turning back now :msp_rolleyes:

that oiler leaks right out the bottom as i am filling it, will take that out today if i get a chance.

it did oil the chain nicely so i am hesitant to replace the whole oil pump assembly unless i find a crack in it
and assume it is just the gasket or something else stupid.
will try and take it out and clean it to investigate today.

on a positive note i think that is pretty good for a saw like this - correct ?

also tried to take some pics inside the cylinder with a fiberoptic camera ....

 

[thesawisthelaw]

upon further investigation and dis-assembly of the oiler / oil pump trying to figure out why and where it is leaking from....

including a thorough inspection of the inside of the oil tank....

i stumbled across the answer....

i am not a big friend of JB weld or any of that sort, but it would be a huge pain to take that all apart to weld that case.
anyone ever succesfully "glued" something like that ?

needless to say i closed the FS listing for the saw and will let the collective wisdom of this forum decide whether
it should be stripped for parts, kept around as a backup after being "glued" or if anyone needs it for parts please PM me.

thanks in advance for all your replies and input !

 

[rocketnorton]

id weld it, cause I can... but 3m 5200 should work if u can work it into crack, needs to be clean [acetone/brakleen], takes a week to fully cure, remains flexible. not cheap & not very long shelf life once opened. cleans up w/acetone...

 

[rocketnorton]

you wont find @ big box stores, go to marine supply or repair shop. g'luck

 

[thesawisthelaw]

id weld it, cause I can... but 3m 5200 should work if u can work it into crack, needs to be clean [acetone/brakleen], takes a week to fully cure, remains flexible. not cheap & not very long shelf life once opened. cleans up w/acetone...

It is not about "can".
Have a miller syncrowave 250....

Will try glue just so I cut one cookie with the darn thing...

 

[brokenbudget]

clean the living heck out of it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. the spray from the can will push any crud out of the smaller area better than soaking or trying to work it in with a brush. i'd go as far as doing a little grinding into the crack and rough up the area and re-clean again with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. heck rech into the tank and rough up the back side of that crack really well so once you have the sealant or whatever you are going to use (i highly recomend original jb weld) is going to stick properly. really work the sealant in with your finger from both sides. give it 24 hours before grinding any of the excess off and adding oil to it. should last for a good while if you don't drop it. this was a pretty common break on these. good luck.:msp_smile: