Partner Chainsaw Thread

[Huskybill]

The choke is a different design too. I can’t wait to run it. Forgive me I’m new to partners.

 

[Huskybill]

One of my partner 400 says partner on the recoil housing, the others say pioneer partner,

 

[powerstroke73]

That's amazing. I used to dabble in
photography and the best thing I ever took home after a wedding was a car trailer, borrowed from the bride's father!

Looks clean. Intriguing that the tag says "Norlett & Partner". Was the Norlett brand used in Canada or US?

I can't say I've ever heard of it in this part of the country before. I expected it to have Electrolux on it.

I have one like that it’s a twin to my 400.

Sounds like the wife’s a keeper. You guys are so lucky. My new neighbor does stock car dirt track racing his wife hands him the tools And works on the car.

She's a keeper for sure.

The choke is a different design too. I can’t wait to run it. Forgive me I’m new to partners.

I have a 400 as well. Runs like a scalded cat. Think it has a clutch problem though.

I hate the choke design on it, it pops back way to easy. The 500/5000 is superior in my mind.

Of the ones I have so far, the R16 choke and on switch feels the best. Saying that, the kill switch on these 500/5000s feels cheap and junky.

 

[Huskybill]

Some of these were home owner saws. Some were semi pro and some were pro saws I can’t tell the difference. I have a older partner r12 I want to start up.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I can't say I've ever heard of it in this part of the country before. I expected it to have Electrolux on it.

From what I understand, Norlett was/is a maker of mowers, cultivators & garden tools, acquired by Elecrolux in 1981.

Of the ones I have so far, the R16 choke and on switch feels the best. Saying that, the kill switch on these 500/5000s feels cheap and junky.

So fussy! The person who designed the kill switch on the 5000 probably won a design award.
Seriously, at the time, the old slide switches on the Huskys were less reliable than that rivet and blue plastic lever with a spade connector in it.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Some of these were home owner saws. Some were semi pro and some were pro saws I can’t tell the difference. I have a older partner r12 I want to start up.

I posted this somewhere else but all Swedish-made saws were pro saws until somebody made one that wasn't. It wasn't considered necessary to make a cheaper model.
R11, R12, R16 - all pro. P55 is Pro, S55 is Semi-pro. They also had a model named 'Farmsaw' at one point.
P100 was Pro. Then it changed.
Pro saws had 4 digits - 5000 & 7000.
Semi-pro had 3 - 400, 500, 550 & 650.
That said, in terms of ruggedness, I would say the 550 & 650 were "real" Semi-pro material and the 400 & 500 were closer to farm saws, but very good farm saws.

 

[powerstroke73]

From what I understand, Norlett was/is a maker of mowers, cultivators & garden tools, acquired by Elecrolux in 1981.


So fussy! The person who designed the kill switch on the 5000 probably won a design award.
Seriously, at the time, the old slide switches on the Huskys were less reliable than that rivet and blue plastic lever with a spade connector in it.

Fussy for sure, maybe brand new they felt good. How dare a 20 or 30 year old switch not work as good.... Lol

Had the new 500 out, works like a charm. Starts and runs mint. Started first pull, leaks bar oil like every other one of these saws.

Also figured out the problem I was having with the R16. It was the starter pawls, maybe the springs are getting weak. After fooling around with it for a bit, there was a bit of a lip on the metal part of the recoil housing. Filed that down, and brought the Idle of the saw up a it bit and it has gone away completely. I guess at certain low rpms the pawls are bouncing in and catching the starter. Runs like a dream now.

 

[Huskybill]

One of my excellent condition husky 268 has a bad ign switch. It has three detents the first two are off the third one all the way left is on. The po didn’t tell me this maybe he couldn’t figure it out the saw is like new.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

One of my excellent condition husky 268 has a bad ign switch. It has three detents the first two are off the third one all the way left is on. The po didn’t tell me this maybe he couldn’t figure it out the saw is like new.

Vibration kills them over time. The early ones that were only grounded by the copper tangs on either side, used to wear the mounting hole and/or the tangs to the point where they no longer made good contact.
The later black & red plastic ones with a screw earth tab were generally an improvement in this regard.

 

[powerstroke73]

Question maybe someone can answer. I have two 5000s. The 1983 i replaced the coil on, and the unknown "Frakensaw" Ive put together.

Both have different fuel tank vent setups. Frankensaw has a line that comes out of tank, and has a small canister plugged into the end of the line that must function as a vent. This saw works fine. The 83 has a line that comes from the fuel tank, through the plastic "heatshield" and looks to go down into the crankcase. It has some sort of contraption in the fuel line itself. Which style is correct? Or what difference do they make?

The one that vents into the crankcase is giving me a hell of a time to run. When I opened the fuel cap to check fuel, fuel went everywhere like the tank was pressurized. So I'm wondering if it is plugged.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Question maybe someone can answer. I have two 5000s. The 1983 i replaced the coil on, and the unknown "Frakensaw" Ive put together.

The one that vents into the crankcase is giving me a hell of a time to run. When I opened the fuel cap to check fuel, fuel went everywhere like the tank was pressurized. So I'm wondering if it is plugged.

I'd have to check the latest IPL to be sure but the setup that vents into the cavity between the crankcase and the fuel tank is the way it is originally.
However, if someone has modified it using the kind of venting used on many other saws, it may work better for you.

I'm guessing that the daytime temp in Halifax in summer is about the same as it is here is winter. (Forecast for tomorrow here is 22c.)
The unified c/case and fuel tank means the 5000 was never going to be at it's best when it's hot. The idea of running the tank vent into the cavity so that further evaporation might better insulate the tank from heat transfer is more noble than effective.

The 5000 is a really good cold climate saw. That said, the only time I have ever seen 95 octane alcohol-free fuel actually bubbling like a cauldron was in a 5000Plus fuel tank on a hot summer day in western Sydney.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I had both on the 5000's. One is the early set up and the black tank deal is the newer run of them imo.

Would the inline tank vent do this if it is installed in your line upside down or the brass plug in end maybe plugged up? Some things to check.


newer http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/IPL, Partner, P5000, 1986-01, Chain Saw.pdf

early http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Partner 5000+.pdf

These during lot of warm weather cutting have always did this on this series around here aka gas bubbling in tank. I mean alot of cutting and use too, not just piddling around.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

newer http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/IPL, Partner, P5000, 1986-01, Chain Saw.pdf

Seems your "newer" is my early.

Potentially confusingly, this is what I found in a 1990 "Formula 500" IPL.

 

[powerstroke73]

I'd have to check the latest IPL to be sure but the setup that vents into the cavity between the crankcase and the fuel tank is the way it is originally.
However, if someone has modified it using the kind of venting used on many other saws, it may work better for you.

I'm guessing that the daytime temp in Halifax in summer is about the same as it is here is winter. (Forecast for tomorrow here is 22c.)
The unified c/case and fuel tank means the 5000 was never going to be at it's best when it's hot. The idea of running the tank vent into the cavity so that further evaporation might better insulate the tank from heat transfer is more noble than effective.

We have been pushing 30 , and close to 40 with the humidity here the last few weeks. Yesterday was closer to the 30 mark.

I had both on the 5000's. One is the early set up and the black tank deal is the newer run of them imo.

Would the inline tank vent do this if it is installed in your line upside down or the brass plug in end maybe plugged up? Some things to check.


newer http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/IPL, Partner, P5000, 1986-01, Chain Saw.pdf

early http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Partner 5000+.pdf

Thanks to both of you. Ill play around with it and see what happens. You never know what someone else has done til you take it all aprt. Will I have to plug the hole in the crankcase that the fuel line runs into if I switch it up?


In other news, I got my mystery saw running. Recoil spring, pull cord, spark plug wire and sticky throttle lever fixed. I still have to make sure the carb is setup properly, but as of now it runs and starts pretty well. Whatever it is, it's got balls.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

We have been pushing 30 , and close to 40 with the humidity here the last few weeks. Yesterday was closer to the 30 mark.

I blame that giant fusion reactor in the sky.

Will I have to plug the hole in the crankcase that the fuel line runs into if I switch it up?

It's just a cavity open at the top and I think it also has a gap in one of the case halves to form a drain at the bottom so I wouldn't think so.

In other news, I got my mystery saw running. Recoil spring, pull cord, spark plug wire and sticky throttle lever fixed. I still have to make sure the carb is setup properly, but as of now it runs and starts pretty well. Whatever it is, it's got balls.

Is this the one with the extended top cylinder fin?

 

[powerstroke73]

I blame that giant fusion reactor in the sky.

It's just a cavity open at the top and I think it also has a gap in one of the case halves to form a drain at the bottom so I wouldn't think so.

Is this the one with the extended top cylinder fin?

Edit: So I remeasured the cylinder because I realized I was reading the calipers wrong. Rookie mistake. I got 48mm. Which would put it at 65cc. So it may in fact be an R420 after all.

It is the saw with the extended fin. Now that its working, I'd say it is the best starting saw out of all the Partners I have. I used it a bit yesterday evening to nip up a few 4x4 posts for firewood and while it runs excellent she got real hot. Couldn't touch the top cover and burn the bar oil that sprayed its way on the side of the cylinder hot. I'm guessing one of the big weaknesses in these saws is the mufflers ability to be crushed easily. This and the 3 parts saws that came with it all have the front face on the muffler pushed in. Id reckon a guess it cant exhaust properly.

So I am now on the hunt for a non smushed muffler. If anyone has one around, feel free to shoot me a message.

she cleaned up real nice though.

 

[peter92]

Edit: So I remeasured the cylinder because I realized I was reading the calipers wrong. Rookie mistake. I got 48mm. Which would put it at 65cc. So it may in fact be an R420 after all.

It is the saw with the extended fin. Now that its working, I'd say it is the best starting saw out of all the Partners I have. I used it a bit yesterday evening to nip up a few 4x4 posts for firewood and while it runs excellent she got real hot. Couldn't touch the top cover and burn the bar oil that sprayed its way on the side of the cylinder hot. I'm guessing one of the big weaknesses in these saws is the mufflers ability to be crushed easily. This and the 3 parts saws that came with it all have the front face on the muffler pushed in. Id reckon a guess it cant exhaust properly.

So I am now on the hunt for a non smushed muffler. If anyone has one around, feel free to shoot me a message.

she cleaned up real nice though.View attachment 751812

very nice , whats the serial number on the saw , that will tell you what model the saw is

 

[powerstroke73]

very nice , whats the serial number on the saw , that will tell you what model the saw is

Looks like 853010 ? I am unsure how to read these old 6 digit numbers.

 

[peter92]

Looks like 853010 ? I am unsure how to read these old 6 digit numbers.

View attachment 751826

Hope this helps you out , traced my R40 in here finally ********************************/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=357&t=24453

 

[powerstroke73]

Hope this helps you out , traced my R40 in here finally ********************************/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=357&t=24453

Cant get the link to work? It comes up as an error.