am so & same to you.
lemme know...
a light is always good.
lemme know...
a light is always good.
Partner Chainsaw Thread
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Does look pretty much identical when I compare the IPLs, and I think it corrects an error on Acres generally useful site.
It has R40T bore & stroke as 60 x 36, R440T as 56 x 40 (same as P100) but all 3 IPLs show the same part number (300740) for the crankshaft so that kinda leads me to think they all have the same stroke.
Will do if I can get hold of a scanner with document feed soon or else I'll just photograph them in strong light.
They all have the same bore also. That site is useless for factual info.
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
Got the P55 to run. Ran pretty good. Tried to shut it off and the kill switch doesn't work. Choke wouldn't kill it so had to adjust the carb to kill it. It looks like someone has mangled the contact inside where the switch locks into place. I'll have to figure out how to take that apart. Do I need to take apart the whole real handle to get the switch off?
Edit : I said hell with it and tore it all apart. The contact was bent right out of shape. I had a parts saw that had a good contact and handle anti-vibe mount and did both while I was in there. Turns out there's an old RIFA module tucked away not used in there.
Also put a new fuel line, filter and rebuilt the carb on the R22. Picks up fuel now. Started and ran for a second, but ran away like crazy. Looks like another full tear down to check the seals.
Edit : I said hell with it and tore it all apart. The contact was bent right out of shape. I had a parts saw that had a good contact and handle anti-vibe mount and did both while I was in there. Turns out there's an old RIFA module tucked away not used in there.
Also put a new fuel line, filter and rebuilt the carb on the R22. Picks up fuel now. Started and ran for a second, but ran away like crazy. Looks like another full tear down to check the seals.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does the 40 cc pioneer partner 400 take the same piston because the bore and stroke is the same? I found some old stock 40 cc pistons for $5 each such a deal.? I’m thinking about porting a pioneer partner 400 saw. Adding a new piston. We’re can I get new crank bearings and seals, gaskets too.
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
still after the clutch cover with no brake off a R40 and top engine cover
Peter
Hi Bill. Are you in need of an IPL? What year are your P/P 400s?
In 1987 the pistons were undoubtedly the same (506 01 08-01). 1990s pistons may have come out of Nashville, Arkansas or Kilgore, Texas, but should still be compatible.
Crank bearings (738 22 02-25) and seals (505 27 57-19) are the same as Partner 500/5000, Husqvarna 40/45, 50/51/55, 154/254/257/262, and others.
You will need some high-temp RTV silcone sealant to seal around the bearing holders when you re-assemble the engine.
Apart from in the carb there are only 2 gaskets in a 400, carb (501 77 00-01) and muffler (503 10 32-01).
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
Anyone who has tuned the carbs on older R and P series 55cc saws. What did you use at your start point on the high low and idle jets? Lot of folks say start at one turn and work from there. That count for the idle screw as well? Just thought I'd check here before I give it a go.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was taught with any saw one turn out on the low speed, adjust the idle. Turn the low speed screw in slowly till it almost stalls the turn it counterclockwise 1/2 turn, adjust your idle speed. High speed screw turn in until it four strokes then back off,
I've cut and pasted the relevant section from the Husky 50 owners manual (It's a Partner 500 inside anyway).
What I do is,
1. Turn in and adjust the L needle until you find the point at which the engine is idling as fast as possible (which will be too lean) then back off 1/4 turn.
2. Adjust the idle speed screw accordingly
3. Apply full throttle and adjust the H so that it runs at the fastest speed at which it is distinctly four-stroking, and leave it at that setting.
4. Drop back at idle. You might need to tweak the L (usually outward) slightly to achieve crisp response when you blip the throttle. If this has been necessary, readjust the idle speed screw, then blip the throttle again to ensure you still have good pickup.
Attachments
I like the "in the cut" method for high speed adjustment. I set mine so they are four stroking as soon as they are not under load anymore at full throttle. As soon as they go back under load they clean right up.
That'll work too. It's just not considered safe, particularly on saws with the adjusting screws on the chain said, like most Partners.
I don't adjust in the cut... just listen during the cut then stop and adjust. Want the 4-stroking to start as soon as there's no cutting load. I find it hard to hit the sweet spot using the full throttle under no load method. I.E. is that 4-stroking enough? Maybe too much? The shift away from 4- stroking when a load starts is a lot more apparent.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was showed by my dealer to let it idle then turn in the low speed screw till it lumbers and almost stalls then back out one half turn counter clockwise. Then adjust your idle speed if it changes. I noticed this works on every saw even the little eager beaver mine runs like a top.
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
I wondered why I was having such a hard time with it. Was doing the proper adjustments. Would not run at all.
Turns out when I put the new float in, the spring didn't seat properly and got pushed outta position. It was late tonight when I fixed it but I just fired it up quickly as to not annoy the neighbors and hey it works now
On a side note, my carb kits didn't come with new springs. Was disappointed in that.
Turns out when I put the new float in, the spring didn't seat properly and got pushed outta position. It was late tonight when I fixed it but I just fired it up quickly as to not annoy the neighbors and hey it works now
On a side note, my carb kits didn't come with new springs. Was disappointed in that.
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
Picked up a 65cc parts saw today. Piston is actually pretty good. Good muffler and starter, ect. I grab whatever I can for parts around here. Even bolts and fasteners are good to have for spares.
I figured it was an old farmer model at first due to the black crankcase. Top handle is wrong and it has antivibe so couldn't be that. Strangely to me, it has no serial number stamped up front near the bar. It's not wore away either, still has paint.
I figured it was an old farmer model at first due to the black crankcase. Top handle is wrong and it has antivibe so couldn't be that. Strangely to me, it has no serial number stamped up front near the bar. It's not wore away either, still has paint.
