Partner Chainsaw Thread
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5000 connecting rod question
My son came over this evening with the plan being we would build him a 5000 from the parts I have here. Well we did'nt get far before we discovered the top end of the connecting rod we were about to put a 246 piston on has worn or strecthed ? ovalized kind of. I have another base here that maybe I could rob a rod from? Can you remove a connecting rod from a crank or do you need to use the entire crank?
This other doner base is in good condition and the reason I did not choose it to begin with was i have never seen one like it before. What I noticed immeadeatly was this other saw with the good rod has 4 lines comming up from the carb deck/ floor area? One is the vent, one is the gas line, the last two come up through the deck as small copper lines then have rubber lines connected to them? One comes up then goes back down into the carb deck /floor area and one has a blk rubber line about 5 " long. This one has at one time been connected to somthing as it still has that streched / flare look that gas line gets when it is connected to a nipple.I dont know if this is a weird 500 / 5000 or maybe P.P-325. there is no tag on it. If someone could answer these 2 questions that would be great.
My son came over this evening with the plan being we would build him a 5000 from the parts I have here. Well we did'nt get far before we discovered the top end of the connecting rod we were about to put a 246 piston on has worn or strecthed ? ovalized kind of. I have another base here that maybe I could rob a rod from? Can you remove a connecting rod from a crank or do you need to use the entire crank?
This other doner base is in good condition and the reason I did not choose it to begin with was i have never seen one like it before. What I noticed immeadeatly was this other saw with the good rod has 4 lines comming up from the carb deck/ floor area? One is the vent, one is the gas line, the last two come up through the deck as small copper lines then have rubber lines connected to them? One comes up then goes back down into the carb deck /floor area and one has a blk rubber line about 5 " long. This one has at one time been connected to somthing as it still has that streched / flare look that gas line gets when it is connected to a nipple.I dont know if this is a weird 500 / 5000 or maybe P.P-325. there is no tag on it. If someone could answer these 2 questions that would be great.
rms61moparman
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Warped5
WingNut
I have one on the bench right now getting a bit of a rebuild.
Heavy, compact and powerful 90cc saw built in 1962. Left the factory with an 18" roller-nose bar. Had a lot of advanced engineering for its day; as well as some that wasn't so advanced.
There are several youtube videos featuring them, most are from Europe. Not many around in North America.
If you'd like an IPL, please shoot me a PM.
You can not remove the rod from the crank.
The other 2 copper/rubber lines are also vent lines.
Nardoo
Addicted to ArboristSite
I picked up a really neat Partner shop manual from about 1984 with all the updates etc for the Partners I like along with some of my favourite junky green saws. Also got another big red Partner. I will post up some more stuff when I get some time. Work is killing me at the moment.
Partner R12
well here are some pics of the saw, it has a 22" bar with Poulan chain on it (063 X 404) 70 DL.
I bought the recoil spring from Chansawers this morning View attachment 279693View attachment 279694View attachment 279695
well here are some pics of the saw, it has a 22" bar with Poulan chain on it (063 X 404) 70 DL.
I bought the recoil spring from Chansawers this morning View attachment 279693View attachment 279694View attachment 279695
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Need help with a strange noise ?
Ok so I went out and looked at the partner I spoke of above and it is a 500. It has a much better looking crank and connecting rod so we will use it for the 5000 build we attempted yesterday.
Yesterday my son and I were going to do this build for him using a 5000 base I had. In looking closer I discovered the 5000 base had a badly worn connecting rod .
So today I started again with the 500 frame. I put in a husky 246 and 5000 jug, flywheel, clutch, carb... you know what all needed.Well I put on a recoil and tried cranking her over but there is a rather annoying clack,clack,clack when you pull the engine over.I used three-bond instead of a base gasket so I thought that the piston may be bumping the top of the cylinder but it is not( I always check that before I bolt the top on) but thought I should check it again.
I used a peice of small elec solider about 20 thou to check the squish.It never touched the piston . So thats not it,... the plug is out so I am wondering if I am just hearing the normal sounds inside?
My next step would be to repete these steps with one of my runners and see if the noise can be heard in one of them? What do you suppose is making this sound? Or like I said am I just able to hear it because the plug is out? I gotta think that this is not normal cycling sounds. any advice or suggestions welcome, Jeff
Ok so I went out and looked at the partner I spoke of above and it is a 500. It has a much better looking crank and connecting rod so we will use it for the 5000 build we attempted yesterday.
Yesterday my son and I were going to do this build for him using a 5000 base I had. In looking closer I discovered the 5000 base had a badly worn connecting rod .
So today I started again with the 500 frame. I put in a husky 246 and 5000 jug, flywheel, clutch, carb... you know what all needed.Well I put on a recoil and tried cranking her over but there is a rather annoying clack,clack,clack when you pull the engine over.I used three-bond instead of a base gasket so I thought that the piston may be bumping the top of the cylinder but it is not( I always check that before I bolt the top on) but thought I should check it again.
I used a peice of small elec solider about 20 thou to check the squish.It never touched the piston . So thats not it,... the plug is out so I am wondering if I am just hearing the normal sounds inside?
My next step would be to repete these steps with one of my runners and see if the noise can be heard in one of them? What do you suppose is making this sound? Or like I said am I just able to hear it because the plug is out? I gotta think that this is not normal cycling sounds. any advice or suggestions welcome, Jeff
Nardoo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Boy now that is, possible. I would assume the only way to know for sure would be to remove the cylinder and cycle it without the cylinder?
Lets say yes that is the reason Can I shorten the skirt? Thanks for the reply,.. Jeff
ft. churchill
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I agree with nardoo, If the skirt needs to be shortened, it will affect intake port timing (it will increase intake open time.) Bore and stroke might be the same but the new rod length might be shorter. You might be able to compensate with gasket thickness or no gasket.
Thanks , I will have to check to see if it is hitting I guess. But if I add gasket/gaskets to the base how would that height of cylinder change how far down the piston travels?
It is not hitting the top of the cylinder that I know. I checked the squish w/ some 20 tho solider and the piston never touched the solider.
As far as the bottom edge of the skirt hitting the crank / weights it can't be hitting to hard cause the saw will turn over very eaisly .So if it is hitting at the bottom it must be just barely hitting or elese it would be binding up right?
UPDATE
you know somthing if you put the piston on the wrist pin without the wrist pin bearing,... that will make your saw go CLACK,CLACK,CLACK. What a dumb az,.. oh well got her solved anyway thats all that matters. Jeff
Well It was a new piston and it did not come with one? I thought in the past there was one in the box but who knows anyway no more clack clack and thats good. The squish ended up being 1.3 mm. I got it written down but in inchs it was 0.93 I think I would have to look at the paper. Jeff
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Acornhill, I sure do like see'n that older magnesium. Nice saw. Jeff, whoops, at least you caught your mistake right away. Imagine the damage that could of caused. One more day of work before I get time to rebuild my p7000.
My son is about 25 or so and he really wanted to do everything himself .So when I kept over his shoulder he gave me that look, so I would get him started on somthing then walk away a little. Guess I choose the wrong time to walk away hua ! But to be compleatly honest I am kinda proud of myself for figuring it out for myself too.
help with ID of parts find?
Hello I had this over in the Poulan sticky but i found out that the set of gaskets in the middle are Partner R16 points gaskets. anyone see anything else they can ID?View attachment 280150
Hello I had this over in the Poulan sticky but i found out that the set of gaskets in the middle are Partner R16 points gaskets. anyone see anything else they can ID?View attachment 280150
I dont but I do have a question: Why some of the pictures so small now ? even when I open it up it only 2" square?
