They made about a gazillion styles of 55cc saws it may be one,.. it may be 100cc ( I doubt that very much ) Other than doing a bunch of measuring and someone who is a heck of a lot better at math than I am,... good luck
Partner Chainsaw Thread
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GoRving
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She does run! Thanks for the replies!
Nice work Jeff. All I have owned in these was 550. I was going to put a 70cc top on my 550 but after running 70cc and P100 I decided it wasnt worth it.
The 550 did everything I wanted and I was impressed with the 550 saws but not the P100. So didnt feel the need to put a P70 on the 550.
I still have the parts 550 but gave the other 550 to a friend in need.
Parts saw. Clutch cover gone now for other 550 though. Trade for?
The 550 did everything I wanted and I was impressed with the 550 saws but not the P100. So didnt feel the need to put a P70 on the 550.
I still have the parts 550 but gave the other 550 to a friend in need.
Parts saw. Clutch cover gone now for other 550 though. Trade for?
550 hua I never seen one of those I guess. Along with about a zillion other saws I have never seen ha ha. I have the Partner S-50 , S-65, 500, 5000, 5000+, p-70, r 517 , PP-255, and a Green Poulan 3000 ( am going to sell that one )
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
I would agree R-16 I have at least 1 maybe 2 like that and have had 1 more a while back mine happened to all be r-516. Cool looking though
I am still kinda looking for the Muffler louver for my p-70 . My muffler is pretty dented up but I guess they all got that way, but is missing the louver completely. If any one has one and they want to sell it let me know. Or maybe I have a part you would like and we could trade? I have a couple of carcasses and if I had a part you needed just take a picture of it and pm me.
Jeff can you post a pic of what you are looking for on the louver? Be easier for me to hunt down.
Heck might have one on another saw not a p70.
Heck might have one on another saw not a p70.
Jeff never mind on pic. Found whole muffler for under 12 bucks with louver. Link sent elsewhere being they are not a sponsor here. 
sponsor here wants $25 so I didnt even bother sending you that link.
sponsor here wants $25 so I didnt even bother sending you that link.
Ok I will go look thanks.
Work Saw Collector
GTG Coffee Maker
What the heck did I buy? It runs, starts on it's own but it will start but not idle or spool up, it sat outside for years. The tygon fuel hose in the tank does is not wide enough in OD to seal the gap so it leaks fuel if it's tipped. Is anyone interested in this saw? I'm a Husqvarna guy...
The only other thing I noticed that is missing is the point on the chain tightener.
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
any one know off the top of their heads what the wrist pin diameter is on a pm 1000? don't feel like pulling mine down if i don't have to.
I'm pretty sure it's 13mm. Same as the big Huskys of that era.
What the heck did I buy? It runs, starts on it's own but it will start but not idle or spool up, it sat outside for years. The tygon fuel hose in the tank does is not wide enough in OD to seal the gap so it leaks fuel if it's tipped. Is anyone interested in this saw? I'm a Husqvarna guy...
The only other thing I noticed that is missing is the point on the chain tightener.
Partner 5000 +. One heck of a fast cutting saw.
Does anyone know anything about a Pioneer Partner 360? Have a chance to pick one up pretty cheaply. I've seen the Acres page, fairly small saw, but was wondering about they are good bad or indifferent.
Thanks,
Lee
Thanks,
Lee
Good day Gents (and Ladies?). Been lurking for awhile. And by no means a seasonsed saw veteran.
I am rather new to the saw tinkering hobby. With a young family, a busy job etc. why not just throw in a bunch of chainsaws and some later nights in the garage for the heck of it!
I picked up a 1976 Partner r440t off of Craigslist for less than I should have and have been trying to give it the once over without getting in too deep - aka soiling my pants. Thorough cleaning, new sprocket, carb kit, filter, plug, cleaned up the ignition, rebuilt the throttle handle (busted), etc. The saw starts, idles and accelerates like a champ.
Long and short of it - filled her about 1/2 with fuel turned it clutch side down and it was dripping fuel. I figured it was the o-ring on the fuel cap (threads are a bit spent) but discoved the tank vent was the issue. I tightened the fitting to the tank as best I could for fear of breaking the vent assembly on the inside of the tank.
I was thinking of wrapping the vent screw with teflon to reduce the screw's venting capacity (don't know the name for the type of screw but it has longitudinal groves the length of the screw to improve air draw I gather) and it was there I gathered the fuel was escaping. I am pretty much thinking these grooves are too much and it drains as well as vents. I have no idea if this was/is a common problem with the vent and/or if there is an internal check valve in addition to this screw. I assume the engineers had this dialed in properly from the get go and there is another reason. I've not dissassembled the vent nor have I pulled the tank.
Regardless, I figure the teflon wouldn't last long before it dissolved and I don't want to lock the tank up if it seals too well.
My first priority would be to get this OEM assembly functioning properly and maintain the all original integrity of this saw.
Any insight would be much appreciated. Source(s) of good parts would be bonus. Wisdom would be priceless.
All the best from BC,
Cory
I am rather new to the saw tinkering hobby. With a young family, a busy job etc. why not just throw in a bunch of chainsaws and some later nights in the garage for the heck of it!
I picked up a 1976 Partner r440t off of Craigslist for less than I should have and have been trying to give it the once over without getting in too deep - aka soiling my pants. Thorough cleaning, new sprocket, carb kit, filter, plug, cleaned up the ignition, rebuilt the throttle handle (busted), etc. The saw starts, idles and accelerates like a champ.
Long and short of it - filled her about 1/2 with fuel turned it clutch side down and it was dripping fuel. I figured it was the o-ring on the fuel cap (threads are a bit spent) but discoved the tank vent was the issue. I tightened the fitting to the tank as best I could for fear of breaking the vent assembly on the inside of the tank.
I was thinking of wrapping the vent screw with teflon to reduce the screw's venting capacity (don't know the name for the type of screw but it has longitudinal groves the length of the screw to improve air draw I gather) and it was there I gathered the fuel was escaping. I am pretty much thinking these grooves are too much and it drains as well as vents. I have no idea if this was/is a common problem with the vent and/or if there is an internal check valve in addition to this screw. I assume the engineers had this dialed in properly from the get go and there is another reason. I've not dissassembled the vent nor have I pulled the tank.
Regardless, I figure the teflon wouldn't last long before it dissolved and I don't want to lock the tank up if it seals too well.
My first priority would be to get this OEM assembly functioning properly and maintain the all original integrity of this saw.
Any insight would be much appreciated. Source(s) of good parts would be bonus. Wisdom would be priceless.
All the best from BC,
Cory
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
In the Tank is a plastic tube that goes from the vent to the other side .<<it must be on the top of the tank ,somtime it is broken or bent.This small tube prevents fuel leaking when the saw is positioned clutch side down.
Regards Eberhard
Regards Eberhard
I fought that dang tube for a while on mine, I finally cut it off about a inch from the tank fitting and slipped a Homelite duckbill valve on the tube. End of troubles.
You have to make sure the o ring is good on the fitting and that its tight in the tank as well.
Thanks Gents,
I'll first check to see if during my tightening of the valve externally I did not turn the tube downwards into the fuel (I assume it would have been originally orientated toward the top?) If not, the duckbill valve internally is the way to go.
Would a duckbill from a Poulan 3400 work? I've got to replace one on a 3400 and would go ahead and just order two. Just not sure of the OD on that line or if the Homelite valves are smaller/larger in diameter? If not Mark, could I trouble you for a part number on that valve?
Nice, simple technology those duckbill valves are.
Thanks - Cory
