terryknight
ArboristSite Operative
i'm liking this thread
Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
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wonder if a soak in a "simple Green" first to remove the heavy gunk would matter prior to the Evapo Rust. maybe keep the Evapo cleaner in the long run.
Looks pretty good. Make sure that you rinse all that stuff off and lube it really good.
Philbert
hangfirew8
ArboristSite Operative
Instead of just vinegar, try vinegar and salt. I have derusted old tools with great success, as long as they are degreased. One word of warning- make sure nothing iron extends into the air through the liquid, or it will rust even more. The workpiece must be completely submerged.
HF
I bought a gallon today and the label recommends this. It says that cleaning off greasy residue will speed up the process. I assume that brushing off any loose surface rust will also improve efficiency.
The label also says to use at 65*F or above, and a technical rep on the phone said that using it in a heated parts washer (for water based cleaners) will speed up the process.
He stated that you can re-use the liquid until it turns black, but that you have to replace any water that evaporates if used in an open container because this affects performance. Do not dilute it. His suggestion was to place a mark on the container to mark the liquid level so that you can observe if any water evaporates.
Philbert
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
Phil, here's the chain I'm bringing you Saturday. It's .404 semi chisel with bumper links, measures about .050 on the drivers, maybe well worn .058? Never seen .404/.050 before??? Anyway, I don't remember a saw around here with .404 except maybe an old McC Dad had when I was very young, mid to late 70s sometime. I've got .404 saws now, but this chain is from "back in the day".
In it's native habitat:
A better shot. It's rusty for sure, but not frozen tight. Probably from being inside out of the elements. Grabbed a couple tractor toolbox wrenches for you to test on as well.
If this evapo rust works as well as you guys are saying, I'm gonna have to get some. How many gallons do I need to dunk an 88 Chevy?
In it's native habitat:
A better shot. It's rusty for sure, but not frozen tight. Probably from being inside out of the elements. Grabbed a couple tractor toolbox wrenches for you to test on as well.
If this evapo rust works as well as you guys are saying, I'm gonna have to get some. How many gallons do I need to dunk an 88 Chevy?
Attachments
Dammit, Philbert! Here I go subbin' to another one.:hmm3grin2orange:
Have done a few more challenge chains but postings got blocked by the virus thing. And my main computer is going in for some work, so they will be delayed a bit.
But quick points:
*** EvapoRust has worked well for me on SURFACE rust. On a few chains I have had to go back and clean up deep spots with naval jelly and a stiff brush.
*** 'SuperClean' has been working better for me than 'Purple Power'. They are not the same. SuperClean and some of the other 'purple' cleaners have sodium hydroxide (lye) in them, for better or worse.
Will post some more case studies soon!
Philbert
But quick points:
*** EvapoRust has worked well for me on SURFACE rust. On a few chains I have had to go back and clean up deep spots with naval jelly and a stiff brush.
*** 'SuperClean' has been working better for me than 'Purple Power'. They are not the same. SuperClean and some of the other 'purple' cleaners have sodium hydroxide (lye) in them, for better or worse.
Will post some more case studies soon!
Philbert
half_full
ArboristSite Guru
per the thread referenced in post #18 by Philbert, I ordered the oxalic acid from ebay. My minimal research on rust removal indicated this would be ok for chrome if one followed the instructions.
BEFORE
AFTER
You can see the oa made the center cap usable again but not perfect. You can also see that I need to scrub my wheels... The center caps are a cheap chrome product so it obviously shows the chrome was compromised where the rust occurred. Had I done this earlier, it may look better as a final product.
I used 1 to 2 teaspoons of the oa powder per gallon of water. So, the 5 pounds I ordered will last a lifetime. I soaked for about 4 hours total but could have gone longer.
I also soaked a pair of pliers that was so rusty it would not open. After one day of soaking it works as it should. The pliers were greasy when dunked. I recommend degreasing anything that is going to get dunked.
BEFORE
AFTER
You can see the oa made the center cap usable again but not perfect. You can also see that I need to scrub my wheels... The center caps are a cheap chrome product so it obviously shows the chrome was compromised where the rust occurred. Had I done this earlier, it may look better as a final product.
I used 1 to 2 teaspoons of the oa powder per gallon of water. So, the 5 pounds I ordered will last a lifetime. I soaked for about 4 hours total but could have gone longer.
I also soaked a pair of pliers that was so rusty it would not open. After one day of soaking it works as it should. The pliers were greasy when dunked. I recommend degreasing anything that is going to get dunked.
It can be done
I just saved three Stihl chains that were rusted beyond belief, but I have no Pics. One had brand new teeth on it and was worth all the effort. I soaked them all 24 hrs in 6% vinegar. That knocked off all the rust. Then I gave them a simple soap and water bath with laundry detergent and a scrub brush to get rid of more crud.
Finally, I soaked them overnight again in diesel fuel and gave them a final brushing. Yes, some of the chrome finish is gone, but after touch-up sharpening, they cut and performed very well. Mission accomplished. The owner was astonished. He figured they were gone geese.
I just saved three Stihl chains that were rusted beyond belief, but I have no Pics. One had brand new teeth on it and was worth all the effort. I soaked them all 24 hrs in 6% vinegar. That knocked off all the rust. Then I gave them a simple soap and water bath with laundry detergent and a scrub brush to get rid of more crud.
Finally, I soaked them overnight again in diesel fuel and gave them a final brushing. Yes, some of the chrome finish is gone, but after touch-up sharpening, they cut and performed very well. Mission accomplished. The owner was astonished. He figured they were gone geese.
exSW
ArboristSite Guru
If this evapo rust works as well as you guys are saying, I'm gonna have to get some. How many gallons do I need to dunk an 88 Chevy?
There wouldn't be anything left
Oxalic Acid arrived today!
Will try it out soon and post results when the site stabilizes a bit, and I get my main computer back.
Philbert
Will try it out soon and post results when the site stabilizes a bit, and I get my main computer back.
Philbert
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
Hey now, the roof ain't too bad.
Done several more chains, but still a little nervous about doing big posts with pictures.
EvapoRust has yet to prove itself to me for more than surface rust. Tried it on a bunch of drill bits that had surface rust on their (MT#1) shanks. After a few hours soak and some rubbing with a ScotchBrite pad it mostly came off. But also came off of an un-treated bit with a ScotchBrite pad, and neither polished them like new like a ScotchBrite wheel.
Also, not getting much action out of the used solution. Tech rep on the phone said to use it until it looks black. But a second batch did not show much action after 4 hours in used solution the color of apple cider.
It is a thinner viscosity than Naval Jelly, so I am sure that it penetrates better between the links of a frozen chain.
So , . . . . . jury is still out on this stuff. If you try it, do it with open eyes (and splash goggles!).
Will start experimenting with the Oxalic Acid method soon and report back (hopefully with photos!).
Philbert
andydodgegeek
The stool maker
Interesting thread Philbert.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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I am finally able to read some posts without any spam .... and this thread is awesome ! Nice clear pics and details. Some rep for ya too. Keep up the good work !!
I tried some ER on some old galvanized nuts and bolts from my dump truck. it seemed to work only slightly better then the vinegar I had next to it. vinegar is cheaper and required no time to locate and purchase.( in the pantry)
I ordered some OA too. Im keepin with ya Philbert but don't have any rusted chains , just other junk/
D
Deleted member 116684
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waiting patiently for the next chain...
theatermusic87
New Member
Salvaged Chain Success
The company I work for has a large fleet of tree trucks (30 or so) and every now and then when your truck ends up in the shop you end up being given a "loaner truck" for a couple of days. I found 2 or 3 older 20" .050 chains lying in the bottom of the tool box pretty stiff from rush but still barely useable most likely deemed "too trashed to sharpen," so i grabbed them and tossed them on my truck in case I needed a spare throwaway chain. Fast forward 8 months..
I pulled the chains out of storage in my toolboxes and figured I'd throw them on a saw to see how they cut, however at this point they were frozen stiff. Some PB oil soaking on them for a couple days freed up some of the links, and some gentle taping with a scrench freed up most of the rest. I found using the smaller side of the scrench worked better, because you could strike (very gently of course) on both sides of the cutter head and persuade the tie straps to loosen up a bit. Doing this on all the stiff links worked pretty well, at this point I put it on a saw, left it loose like you would if you had burs on the sides of the drive links, fired it up and gave her a few slow speed spins; tightened the chain up some more and gave her a quick full speed run, took the chain off wiped it down with a rag and presto, almost as good as new.
Some polite sharpening of the teeth and an adjustment of the rakers and it's now my primary chain on my saw. A day or 2s worth of cutting removed any residual traces of rust.
Was it worth it? The salvaged chains both had 50% or better cutter life on them, so in this case yes, had they been more badly abused I'd most likely make a pass on them. However the extra added bonus of not having to see the fleet manager as often for parts, is definitely a VERY nice bonus
The company I work for has a large fleet of tree trucks (30 or so) and every now and then when your truck ends up in the shop you end up being given a "loaner truck" for a couple of days. I found 2 or 3 older 20" .050 chains lying in the bottom of the tool box pretty stiff from rush but still barely useable most likely deemed "too trashed to sharpen," so i grabbed them and tossed them on my truck in case I needed a spare throwaway chain. Fast forward 8 months..
I pulled the chains out of storage in my toolboxes and figured I'd throw them on a saw to see how they cut, however at this point they were frozen stiff. Some PB oil soaking on them for a couple days freed up some of the links, and some gentle taping with a scrench freed up most of the rest. I found using the smaller side of the scrench worked better, because you could strike (very gently of course) on both sides of the cutter head and persuade the tie straps to loosen up a bit. Doing this on all the stiff links worked pretty well, at this point I put it on a saw, left it loose like you would if you had burs on the sides of the drive links, fired it up and gave her a few slow speed spins; tightened the chain up some more and gave her a quick full speed run, took the chain off wiped it down with a rag and presto, almost as good as new.
Some polite sharpening of the teeth and an adjustment of the rakers and it's now my primary chain on my saw. A day or 2s worth of cutting removed any residual traces of rust.
Was it worth it? The salvaged chains both had 50% or better cutter life on them, so in this case yes, had they been more badly abused I'd most likely make a pass on them. However the extra added bonus of not having to see the fleet manager as often for parts, is definitely a VERY nice bonus
